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SOLDSOLDSOLD
by
ObscuredByClouds
on 17 Dec, 2008 19:01
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SOLD
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#1
by
53 willys
on 17 Dec, 2008 19:52
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nice...fresh boost!! feels good huh?...:lol:
MLS gaskets do not need retorque like fiber gaskets...
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#2
by
zukgod1
on 18 Dec, 2008 07:55
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To cool man.
No vegi for a long time on a new rebuild. Better wait at LEAST 5000 miles min.
And I dont see you having "More" power with vegi.
Keep the boost down till after the 5k, below 5 psi would be best.
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#3
by
53 willys
on 18 Dec, 2008 09:20
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wait??? I was told bio-diesel and vegi oil have LESS btu then regular diesel?
I have always noticed less power when I run bio in my cummins...
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#4
by
zukgod1
on 18 Dec, 2008 09:57
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wait??? I was told bio-diesel and vegi oil have LESS btu then regular diesel?
I have always noticed less power when I run bio in my cummins...
As have I.
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#5
by
arb
on 18 Dec, 2008 10:11
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Yes, Biodiesel is lower in BTU just as bio-gas (E85, E10, etc) is less than gas.
Here is the break-down of B100 vs diesel:
High Cetane (>50 vs42)
High Lubricity (> 6000g vs3100g SLBOCLE)
- 2% blend biodiesel increases lubricity by up to 65%
BTU Content (120,000 BTU/gal vs126,000)
Cold Flow (3-8oF > for soy-based B20)
Flash Point (a minimum 260oF vs150o)
all from EPA, such as it is - after reading it you'd think they liked diesel ;-)
http://www.epa.gov/midwestcleandiesel/publications/presentations/in-08-05/tverry.pdf
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#6
by
zukgod1
on 18 Dec, 2008 15:08
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Well smart ass. :lol:
The Bio I was running was from Vegi and I experienced less power.
Do you have some data to back up your mouth? :shock:
I would still love to be running vegi, I LOVED the way my car ran on B100, quite ans smelled like fries.
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#7
by
Turbinepowered
on 18 Dec, 2008 20:56
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I'm curious where you're getting the VO BTUs > Diesel BTUs figure, myself. I've always heard, read and seen it the other way around.
Congrats on the successful rebuild, but like folks have told you, go easy until she's broken in!
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#8
by
arb
on 19 Dec, 2008 06:58
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#9
by
zukgod1
on 19 Dec, 2008 06:59
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I heard that comment from the Scouts one night, "Brother Butler, why does your car smell like Fries?" :lol:
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#10
by
Turbinepowered
on 19 Dec, 2008 07:52
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The chart is good, but it doesn't give numbers other than the visual representation. I pulled the image out of the paper, blew it up... those two bars are pretty well dead even.
I'm not disputing that VO has more energy per gallon that biodiesel, but regular diesel?
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#11
by
53 willys
on 19 Dec, 2008 08:58
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over on "competition diesel forums" they say no need to baby the motor after rebuild...they all say break the cam in...and then give it hell...they say boost numbers don't even matter...they even made it sound like the more boost you put on the rings the faster they seat?.?.?.?
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#12
by
arb
on 19 Dec, 2008 09:04
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#13
by
Typrus
on 19 Dec, 2008 15:14
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I've always seen that after breaking in the cam, whoop its butt. The faster/harder you can get the rings to seat, the less blowby will be had (more ridges get knocked over before things average out creating a smoother surface?) and the better combustion you'll get, thereby resulting in better power, economy, and longevity.
Heck, I was told have it block-heaterized and the oil warmed before even going at the cam will better your odds of getting it right.
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#14
by
zukgod1
on 31 Dec, 2008 10:18
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over on "competition diesel forums" they say no need to baby the motor after rebuild...they all say break the cam in...and then give it hell...they say boost numbers don't even matter...they even made it sound like the more boost you put on the rings the faster they seat?.?.?.?
Well that's not what the guys @ Total Seal told me.. So I was nicer on mine for the first 5k.