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#15
by
zukgod1
on 03 Nov, 2008 10:43
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Damn that 3 people so far in what a week?
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#16
by
GTD0023
on 03 Nov, 2008 10:47
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Can one or two bad lifters cause this problem?
because i do have at least one very bad lifter. the engine is very noisy, clacking noise and shaking like crazy.
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#17
by
zukgod1
on 03 Nov, 2008 10:48
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The only thing I can suggest at this point Jet A is a tear down.
I REALLY hope someone will come up with something before you actually tear it down though.
I'm thinking a broken ring (rings) maybe. Aside from that I don't know. I've never had that problem not even when my engine was fubar.
On mine the second compression ring was stuck to the piston on #1, #2 and #4. The only reason it wasn't stuck on #3 was due to a broken ring land. The blowby was so bad there was smoke coming out the vent tube I had dangling Under the car so bad people would point at it to let me know there was smoke coming out the bottom.
Also on ALL of the second rings the end gap was WAY out of spec. Like 1/8" vs the what .020 max spec.
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#18
by
53 willys
on 03 Nov, 2008 11:35
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I wish Bentley or anybody had a pic of the washers and seals for the dipstick!
I wanna see what they really look like??
mine never had them..
I kinda think mine is leaking because the stick was not installed correctly??
some time the small flare/bubble goes way down in the block and then other times it wont go down past the opening...this dipstick issue is driving me CRAZY!!! when I searched here I found like 6-7 threads with guys having the same issue...seems to be pretty common...but whats the fix???
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#19
by
rabbitman
on 03 Nov, 2008 11:45
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I installed my aftermarket turbo. it is being drained via a bung welded high on the oil pan. i am getting enough pressure through the crank to push oil back up that line and out the turbine side of the turbo.
How is this possible?
You should have much higher oil pressure than case pressure which would force the oil into the oil pan, unless it forces it through the turbo seals instead, also case pressure that high should blow the seals out.
Maybe the head gasket is messed up causing a compression to leak into the oil return port.
The breather hose isn't hooked into the intake mani?
What's coming out the exhaust?
As far as I know there's no way to get that high of case pressure w/o something else being wrong. Like the breather hose being clogged, but you already said just air is coming out it. I really hope yo can get it fixed easy.
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#20
by
zukgod1
on 03 Nov, 2008 11:51
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I agree with rabbitman, I must have missed that earlier post.
If oil is leaking into your compressor side or turbine side it's likely from bad seals nit crankcase pressure.
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#21
by
monomer
on 03 Nov, 2008 15:15
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.
My oil bung is located below the oil level. i need to investigate this a partial problem before the head but after that maybe i will pull the head, and pull out each piston, see if i cant find something, and then install another set of rings? i dont know what else to do?
The return Bung for the turbo in the pan? It should be draining into the pan above oil level. Should also be a large tube, Should be made out of SS (I've seen rubber ones melt...)
What was break-in procedure? Normal break-in is Using Rotella-t 30wt. oil. Start it in Neutral, bring it up to around 3k rpms, let it wind out for 15 mins. This prevents the cam from wiping. Using Rotella is recommended, as it has a high zinc content (lacking in all modern oil) A few hours of freeway driving will conclude break in. Drain oil, replace with fresh. Change 1k from that also.
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#22
by
Jet A
on 03 Nov, 2008 15:56
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.
My oil bung is located below the oil level. i need to investigate this a partial problem before the head but after that maybe i will pull the head, and pull out each piston, see if i cant find something, and then install another set of rings? i dont know what else to do?
The return Bung for the turbo in the pan? It should be draining into the pan above oil level. Should also be a large tube, Should be made out of SS (I've seen rubber ones melt...)
What was break-in procedure? Normal break-in is Using Rotella-t 30wt. oil. Start it in Neutral, bring it up to around 3k rpms, let it wind out for 15 mins. This prevents the cam from wiping. Using Rotella is recommended, as it has a high zinc content (lacking in all modern oil) A few hours of freeway driving will conclude break in. Drain oil, replace with fresh. Change 1k from that also.
Oil bung should be above oil level correct. i must have miss measure or not takin engine angle into accoutn when i welded the bung. Bung is made from 1/2npt ss half coupler. standoff on turbo is 1/2" so i should be good to go there.
I cant break in due to loosing oil.
cam is not new so it doesnt need to be broke in.
Rabbit man, it does not take much oil backpressure on the the turbo seal to leak. I would aggree that the pressure should push into the pan, my concern is i am getting either a backup of pressure, or my oil is being pushed up to the turbo. which would cause said backpressure in turbo, which would cause the turbo to leak.
I am just not sure which is coming first, the chicken or the egg. maybe i have to much flow restriction, or maybe the bung being below the pan, or maybe i have blow by. i deff have some things to try before pulling the head. I would say that most likely i do not have a broken, or miss installed rings, but as mentioned it is a possiblity.
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#23
by
53 willys
on 03 Nov, 2008 16:01
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take the turbo off and run it with out the turbo, to see if it still leaks with the turbo out of the picture??
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#24
by
Mark(The Miser)UK
on 03 Nov, 2008 16:19
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.
My oil bung is located below the oil level. i need to investigate this a partial problem before the head but after that maybe i will pull the head, and pull out each piston, see if i cant find something, and then install another set of rings? i dont know what else to do?
The return Bung for the turbo in the pan? It should be draining into the pan above oil level. Should also be a large tube, Should be made out of SS (I've seen rubber ones melt...)
What was break-in procedure? Normal break-in is Using Rotella-t 30wt. oil. Start it in Neutral, bring it up to around 3k rpms, let it wind out for 15 mins. This prevents the cam from wiping. Using Rotella is recommended, as it has a high zinc content (lacking in all modern oil) A few hours of freeway driving will conclude break in. Drain oil, replace with fresh. Change 1k from that also.
Definitely need drain bung above oil in pan. High pressure oil enters turbo from oil pump, and then relies on being able to fall into the large drain pipe. Sump pressure does not prevent the oil from falling, but if sump oil is above the bung then it will push up drain, and meet high pressure oil at the bearings. oil will then take the easier route out ie into intake or exhaust pipes.
Did the high pressure oil occur right from the start? Or maybe after a mile or so... Enough time to break a ring perhaps. Normally dip stick [on a Quantum at least] is a slopppy fit, yet doesn't leak oil; even with some blowby.
Is it happening because oil level is too high, and reaching the dipstick sheath?
Do you have a compression tester?
Hydraulic lifters can be duff from day one. Usually lazy, so they fail to lift the valve.
I don't understand why a faulty valve opening creates clack. Noise most likely injector issue. Try retarding pump a few pencil lines. What is the timing setting for a 1.9?
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#25
by
monomer
on 03 Nov, 2008 20:14
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when you installed the rings, did you align them 180 degrees from one-another?
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#26
by
arb
on 03 Nov, 2008 20:57
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seems like a moving target... new symptoms keep appearing. BOL
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#27
by
theman53
on 04 Nov, 2008 07:17
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You guys are scaring me. I am all ready to build and spending tons and if I have these problems I am going to scream...please figure it out before I get my engine back and installed.
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#28
by
53 willys
on 04 Nov, 2008 08:21
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You guys are scaring me. I am all ready to build and spending tons and if I have these problems I am going to scream...please figure it out before I get my engine back and installed.
tell me about it!!! we all spent way to much on our fresh builds!!
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#29
by
vik F
on 04 Nov, 2008 08:32
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maybe i missed it, but has a compression test been recently performed?
I had similar symptoms on my newer just installed ( not rebuilt ) engine.
compression was off on one cyl. he hoped that it was a stuck ring and would sort itself out. it didnt, tear down revealed a broken ring.
rebuild to begin shortly.
v