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ARP Head Studs
by
chrischris
on 14 Aug, 2008 09:42
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Currently, I am attempting to install head studs on my engine. I have an 11mm head and a recently acquired 12mm block that I am using.
I am having a heck of a time finding the proper sized ARP head studs. I had a mix up with Summit Racing (they sent me Mitsubishi bolts in a VW marked box) and the new head bolts are way too long.
Can someone tell me the correct part number for 12mm undercut head studs?
Here is a picture of the studs included with 204-4702 and an 11mm head bolt. I was told that these studs, which are for the 1.8/2l 16 v gas engine will fit my engine but they are extremly long.
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#1
by
zukgod1
on 14 Aug, 2008 10:15
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Try looking in the FAQ there is a good thread there with part #'s
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#2
by
riddleyo
on 14 Aug, 2008 11:10
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I got these ARP studs:
251-4701 Ford Cosworth Sierra/Escort head stud kit
Worked great.
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#3
by
jimfoo
on 14 Aug, 2008 11:22
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I got these ARP studs:
251-4701 Ford Cosworth Sierra/Escort head stud kit
Worked great.
But they are normal 12 mm studs, not undercut. You should just drill the head out to 12 mm and use the above mentioned studs.
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#4
by
Smokey Eddy
on 14 Aug, 2008 17:42
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frick! i ordered head studs from a vw/import specialty shop in my town. i hope i didn't get the wrong ones? or do you think they would have thought of it? They know what head/block i have. how do you know if you need 11mm or 12mm
is 12mm for hydraulic head and 11mm is for mechanical?
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#5
by
myke_w
on 14 Aug, 2008 19:10
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what is your engine code?
all td blocks regardless of lifter style are 12mm
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#6
by
Smokey Eddy
on 14 Aug, 2008 20:23
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phew thanks i got 12
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#7
by
riddleyo
on 15 Aug, 2008 06:46
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I used a 11mm head on my 12mm block also. I took the head to a machine shop and had them drill out each of the bolt holes to the 12mm size.
Here is a tip: slide the studs you buy through the head to test and make sure they fit BEFORE you put everything together. I made the mistake of not checking and got the cylinder head stuck on the studs. I had to get ugly with a hammer and a block of wood to get it unstuck.
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#8
by
saurkraut
on 15 Aug, 2008 07:27
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There always Raceware if your not comfotable with the ARP P/N and multi-torqing debacle
http://www.raceware-fasteners.com/index.htmYou can call them, and they'll know exasctly what you need.
Works good, lasts long time.
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#9
by
zukgod1
on 15 Aug, 2008 07:32
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There always Raceware if your not comfotable with the ARP P/N and multi-torqing debacle
What do you mean by "Multi-torquing" ?
I don't believe there is a need to do any more than one torque sequence on any head stud..
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#10
by
saurkraut
on 15 Aug, 2008 10:05
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Someone posted the procedure here once supplied by ARP, they recomend doing multiple torqing to 70 ftlbs, then loosening, then going back to 70 ftlbs again for a few more times, then a final torque to 80 ftlbs. The spec sheet has something like 20 steps to tighten a freakin fastener.
I know ARP is cheeper, but the toqueing specs are nuts.
Raceware uses some type of proprietary antifriction coating on their fasteners and recomends using dino oil only and torquing in three steps to 50 ftlbs.
And, when you call Raceware and tell them you have a VW diesel, they know exactly what fastener you need.
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#11
by
zukgod1
on 15 Aug, 2008 10:23
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interesting for sure.
I just locked mine down to 80ft lbs and drove the piss out of it..
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#12
by
Turbinepowered
on 15 Aug, 2008 12:31
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Someone posted the procedure here once supplied by ARP, they recomend doing multiple torqing to 70 ftlbs, then loosening, then going back to 70 ftlbs again for a few more times, then a final torque to 80 ftlbs. The spec sheet has something like 20 steps to tighten a freakin fastener.
I know ARP is cheeper, but the toqueing specs are nuts.
Raceware uses some type of proprietary antifriction coating on their fasteners and recomends using dino oil only and torquing in three steps to 50 ftlbs.
And, when you call Raceware and tell them you have a VW diesel, they know exactly what fastener you need.
Huh. I called ARP, told the tech (Thirty six seconds for a tech to be on the line, it was awesome.
) what I was doing and which part # studs I had, and asked if there was anything special I needed to do to torque them down. He said "Nope. Just thread the studs into your block, slide the gasket on, slide the head on, dab your lube packet on the stud ends and in the nuts, and torque them like you torque your head bolts, to the spec your engine calls for."
Straightforward as anything.
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#13
by
theman53
on 15 Aug, 2008 12:52
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sounds scary to me. I would NOT want to torque the studs as the bentley says to do the stretch bolts. I think the ARP tech is not what it should be. I could be wrong, but when the torque to yeild bolts start "yeilding" it sounds bad...if you did that with a 8740 chromemoly stud I think the head or gasket would be screaming instead. Probably wouldn't be good on the blocks threads either, but I as I am not the expert I would be more inclined to listen to the raceware people.
Sorry for not being more helpful on where to find the undercut stud in the original post.
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#14
by
saurkraut
on 15 Aug, 2008 14:23
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Huh. I called ARP, told the tech (Thirty six seconds for a tech to be on the line, it was awesome. ) what I was doing and which part # studs I had, and asked if there was anything special I needed to do to torque them down. He said "Nope. Just thread the studs into your block, slide the gasket on, slide the head on, dab your lube packet on the stud ends and in the nuts, and torque them like you torque your head bolts, to the spec your engine calls for."
Straightforward as anything.
Wow, thats the third different torqing procedure they have given out.
Makes you go Hummmm.