I'll try and turn my boost up a bit and see what happens to my EGT. If I can bring my EGT down with more boost I guess that's OK. The K03s are actually pretty reasonably priced so if I totally blow it out it wont break my heart, or my wallet.
If that doesn't work I may look at a bigger turbo because I need power and I think I have enough fuel and just need more air and a liquid-2-air intercooler looks like a bigger project.
What are the best performance upgrade replacement turbos for the K03 on the AAZ. I have heard people mention K04, K14, K24 and Garret. Any suggestion, recommendations or comments?
Thanks,
David
Oakland, CA
Its not the turbo you should be so worried about!! More the pistons melting if it goes wrong!
Is that an instantaneous threat? Wouldn't I need to run at high egt for a bit for that to happen. I always assumed there would be some noise from a failed turbo and high egt and I would just shut her down a pull over to the side.
David
I see a lot of posts here suggesting you can "turn up your boost", irrespective of where your fueling is set (usually stock, or close to stock).
My own experiments on my AAZ-powered Vanagon worked in reverse to this.
That is, I disconnected the wastegate hose entirely, so the turbo would create whatever max boost pressure it would create. At stock fuelling, that was about 10 psi max. If I wanted to see 16 psi, I needed to turn up the main fuel screw on the pump.
This is a contrarian view to add to common wisdom. I can't see how people "turn up the boost" to cool EGTs. That did nothing at all for me... the wastegate was disconnected so boost was "turned up" to an infinite amount. The reality was that I needed to turn up the fuel FIRST for more boost, which in turn creates enough heat that boost will increase, and in turn that will raise EGT.
I figure that I'm running "minimum fuel" to support 16 psi now. If I lower the fuel screw, then I automatically reduce boost pressure.
Is that an instantaneous threat? Wouldn't I need to run at high egt for a bit for that to happen. I always assumed there would be some noise from a failed turbo and high egt and I would just shut her down a pull over to the side.
David
you can get a good feel for high EGT from the smoke coming out the back... but a hard pull in 5th gear could also do some good damage without the telltale smoke. mild power tweaks are okay such as turning up the boost and increasing fuel slightly.
you should also limit the amount of time that you stay at full throttle. i would say 5 seconds or so without an EGT gauge. the temps might rise to 1600F (with proper fueling :twisted:), but there won't be enough time for melting to occur.
just don't be too ignorant of EGT's as they can ruin your motor.
Thanks everyone for the comments. I do have an egt gauge positioned right in the manifold. I have to back off the hills and sometimes shift down to 3rd (syncro vanagon) because the egt start to climb over 1200. I shift down at around 1250 or so.
I am hoping that a little more air will give me a better mixture because it feels like the power is there but it just gets too hot.
David
youve got a 1.9 and all that weight.....i think a k24 would be great..
all that load will help spool it up...lol
honestly....k24 turbo and water/meth would probably do wonders for you. much more power and lower EGTs and in a absolute world...a Giles pump...all those together, you will probably making much more reliable Power at the same EGT level
thats just my 2 cents though
I have a 1.6td in my 82 diesel van and have been having the same problems. Right now running 12psi, no intercooler, 2.5 exhaust with a cherry bomb muffler, backed out fuel screw a little. It really seems that if you want to actually use the power from both 1.9's and 1.6's, in a van they produce more heat than is easy to dissipate.
Before I adjusted fuel down a bit I could easily, almost instantaneously spike up (and beyond if I kept my foot in it) 1250 degrees when on the highway and would have to baby the throttle to keep EGTs at a safe level.
When I find the time between other projects I am going to fit my Saab IC with a fan but in the meantime I have two questions:
1. Do Golf/Jetta drivers using this engine have the same problem or is it just the size, shape and weight of the Van that does it?
2. Has anyone out there come up with a formula of mods that works for 90-100 hp in a van without having to keep a permanent eye on EGT's?
im guessing fuel consumption could give you an idea if you're pulling too much weight for the little 1.9 litres
I have a 1.6td in my 82 diesel van and have been having the same problems. Right now running 12psi, no intercooler, 2.5 exhaust with a cherry bomb muffler, backed out fuel screw a little. It really seems that if you want to actually use the power from both 1.9's and 1.6's, in a van they produce more heat than is easy to dissipate.
Before I adjusted fuel down a bit I could easily, almost instantaneously spike up (and beyond if I kept my foot in it) 1250 degrees when on the highway and would have to baby the throttle to keep EGTs at a safe level.
When I find the time between other projects I am going to fit my Saab IC with a fan but in the meantime I have two questions:
1. Do Golf/Jetta drivers using this engine have the same problem or is it just the size, shape and weight of the Van that does it?
2. Has anyone out there come up with a formula of mods that works for 90-100 hp in a van without having to keep a permanent eye on EGT's?
Fit a charge cooler and a front mounted oil cooler, and do go daft!
I need to dyno mine but I should imagine it's up near there somewhere and miles better than my Mtdi I had a few years ago.
AAZ, Hybrid turbo, Barrel charge cooler, FM oil cooler, 2.5" exhaust, Rover boost pin. Thats in a Westy pop top.
Well I turned up my boost to around 16/17psi max and it sure is making a difference. Maybe a little more power but much lower EGTs on the long hills.
Last weekend I drove over Hwy 17 to Santa Cruz and this weekend I'm hitting bigger and longer hills so I'll give a better update later.
Another question; is there some type of exhaust gauge which can tell me the perfect combo of fuel to air? I know many have said trial and error but there must be something that reads unburnt fuel so I can adjust my max fuel screw?
Also, my boot pin is half way around to max right now. What is the advantage to spinning my boot pin all the way around to the maximum position? Should I back off on my max fuel screw to do this if it seems I already have enough fuel?
Thanks once again,
David
Vanagon Syncro: AAZ, K03 turbo, 2.5" exhaust, GTD nozzles, SAAB blackstone intercooler with 800cfm fan, EGT sensor pre-turbo, Boost at about 16psi, 235/70/16 with stock gearing
http://picasaweb.google.com/Orbitald/DieselVanagonStuff/photo#5194145059298034050