head gasket....what else to do? - page 1 - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• head gasket....what else to do? by vdubin_g60 on 24 Jan, 2008 17:33
• I  should be getting the head back tomarrow.
   My questions are   are there better intake manifolds to put on,
    exhuast  whats too big for stock,  
  can i switch the exhaust manifold to a 8v gasser....whats needed for this.
  
  
  anything else i should do while the head is off.    
  
  thanks for any help and sorry if these things are talked about a lot
• #1 by Riverfurm on 24 Jan, 2008 18:05
• I installed head studs after I saw some oil leakage and was using a small amount of coolant. I am running 20 psi of boost. I found it had a one notch head gasket on it. I took a measurement and found it should of had a two notch gasket on it. That what I installed.  One thing I found weird was no alignment pin or collar to hold the gasket or keep it from moving. Does your engine have a pin or collar on it.
• #2 by burn_your_money on 24 Jan, 2008 23:32
• 1.6's don't have that pin to hold the gasket in place.
  
  Do the timing belt and consider doing the waterpump
• #3 by vdubin_g60 on 25 Jan, 2008 15:36
• got the new timing belt already.    anything else.         can i get a different intake manifold since mine is now missy a chunk.
• #4 by vdubin_g60 on 27 Jan, 2008 17:44
• any more suggestions
• #5 by subsonic on 27 Jan, 2008 18:43
• What is your end goal? Long term reliability? All out power?  
  What kind of car is this?
• #6 by vdubin_g60 on 27 Jan, 2008 22:00
• Its a 81 rabbit.     I have an extra car  but this will turn into a daily till the other car is done.    Want the most power for the cheapest amount possible.   intill i start throwing money into it.    
  
  
  But since the head is off,  i was wondering if i could swap out the exhuast for a better one.
  
   i want to put parts on that would later help it out as a turbo
• #7 by burn_your_money on 27 Jan, 2008 22:36
• a better exhaust is a good idea (4:2:1 setup) but it won't help you when it comes to turbo time. Running a 2.5" exhaust back will help out though
• #8 by subsonic on 28 Jan, 2008 05:06
• So this is a 1.6NA mechanical head and block.
  
  You are planning on going the turbo route in the future.
  
  Besides decking the head( if needed), you will want to have the valves and valve seats checked out.  Now would be the time to make them perfect.  Valve stem guides should be replaced.  They are cheap and easy to do.  Check the cam to make sure is still in spec.  Check the cam journals.  You may also want to have the lifter springs checked.  After 28 years of service they may be ready to swap out.  
  
  If you have access to a turbo manifold, you could gasket match up the exhaust ports on the head to it.
  
  Does this head have 11mm head bolts?  If it does, you could opt to go for the bigger 12mm bolts or studs.  You will have to do the head and block.  You will have to research this.
  
  1.9 head gasket.
  If the injectors are original, rebuild them.  Lots of info on the process listed on the forum.  
  Put in new heat shields with the injectors.
  New glow plugs.
  Add a splash baffle.
  Upgrade to the rubber valve cover gasket kit.
  
  Gotta get the kids off to school
• #9 by vdubin_g60 on 28 Jan, 2008 16:07
• The head has been decked already. valves are fine too dirty thou.    not sure how good the cam is or springs.  but if  i go turbo soon i would get a turbo cam and new lifters.
  
  
  As far as the 1.9 head gasket?  becasue its a metal one?  i have the 1.6 already but would like the get the 1.9 one if its metal.  The head gasket i have is a 3 notch so does that mean i need a 3 notch 1.9?
  
  
  Thanks for the repiles
• #10 by subsonic on 28 Jan, 2008 16:50
• Taken from the FAQ section:    Do you have the 11 or 12 mm head bolts?
  
  1.6L
  
  1980 Rabbit 1.6D:
  * 3-notch (1.4mm): 068 103 383 FB
  * 4-notch (1.5mm): 068 103 383 FC
  * 5-notch (1.6mm): 068 103 383 FD
  
  1981 Rabbit 1.6lD 11mm headbolt:
  * 1-notch (1.4mm): 068 103 383 ES
  * 2-notch (1.5mm) 068 103 838 ET
  * 3-notch (1.6mm): 068 103 383 FA
  
  81-84 Rabbit/Jetta 1.6 solid lifter 12mm headbolt:
  * 1-notch (1.4mm): 068 103 838 FL
  * 2-notch (1.53mm) 068 103 383 FM
  * 3 notch (1.61mm): 058 103 383 FN
  
  1986 Jetta 1.6 hydraulic:
  * 1-hole (1.53mm): 068 103 383 EH
  * 2-hole (1.57mm): 068 103 383 EJ
  * 3-hole (1.61mm): 068 103 383 EK
  
  The 11mm headbolt Vanagon CS engine code did get a unique head gasket:
  1980-85 Vanagon 1.6 11mm headbolt (up to CS 000 338):
  * 1-notch (1.4mm): 068 103 383 AT
  * 2-notch (1.5mm): 068 103 383 ET
  * 3-notch (1.6mm): 068 103 383 FA
  
  Engine code JX:
  * 1-hole (1.53mm): 068 103 383 FE
  * 2-hole (1.57mm): 068 103 383 FF
  * 3-hole (1.61mm): 068 103 383 FG
  
  1.9L
  
  1 hole (1.53mm) 028 103 383BH
  2 hole (1.57mm) 028 103 383BJ
  3 hole (1.61mm) 028 103 383BK
• #11 by vdubin_g60 on 28 Jan, 2008 17:05
• i have the 11mm bolts.
  
  so i would want the 3 hole 1.9 head gasket. its metal right?   so it can hold more boost and last longer?
  
  
  
  as far as an intake  is there a big increase by using a 8v intake?
• #12 by subsonic on 28 Jan, 2008 17:47
• Was the head rebuilt, or just checked for straightness?
  HG:
  That appears to be the correct one.  Has this engine been rebuilt in the past?  A 3 hole would mean a fair amount of piston projection.  Do you know what the projection amount is?
  
  Yes, the 1.9 HG is metal and stronger.  
  
  If you are planning on going turbo in the near future, I would just leave the intake alone.  You will not see a huge difference in the NA.
• #13 by vdubin_g60 on 28 Jan, 2008 18:02
• It was grinded/milled down since it was warped a litle bit.
  I think the block has been redone.
  
  
   A 3 hole would mean a fair amount of piston projection. Do you know what the projection amount is?  how do you check this?
  
  
  
  the reason for the gasser intake would be because the deisel one is now broke on a corner because of me.  but i might jsut get another stock one.
• #14 by myke_w on 29 Jan, 2008 04:13
• Piston projection can be found by laying a straightedge across them.
  Put cyl 2+3 up to TDC, get your feeler guage out and feel under the straightedge  and between cyl 2+3 the thickest feeler you can get under the straightedge is your projection. This isn't the "book" way of doing it, but it's better than nothing.
  
  I'd definitely put the HD exhaust manifold gaskets on it. Unlike the stock ones, they don't blow out. Using the right copper exhaust manifold nuts is a good idea.
  
  I'd second the water pump and t-stat. Glow plugs for sure, they're cake when the head is out.
  
  Timing, belt, as mentioned, tensioner too..
  
  Maybe even intermediate shaft seal and o-ring, cam seal too.
  
  If you didn't do a valve job, obviously that is always a god idea while the head is out.