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#15
by
carrizog60
on 06 Jan, 2008 02:17
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glad to see that you fugured ou your problem but for have more power/smoke you just give more fuel and backed the residual screw right?
i cant back the residual screw more(i adjusted the linkage and even pushing back the idle wont go down more) but still cant have enough fuel :roll:
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#16
by
vanagonturbo
on 06 Jan, 2008 14:00
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carrizog: what kind of pump do you have? Got any pics?
Don: I am fully aware of the charicteristics of the Quaife. Thats why I pointed out that the wheel spin doesnt occur anymore. Its good, but it would be nice to spin wheels in 2nd with a Quaife
I can dream right?
I drove it again today and I would say its definitely quicker than the properly tuned 1.8 16v that I took out.
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#17
by
carrizog60
on 06 Jan, 2008 14:03
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i have a 1.6td (JR engine code) pump...
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#18
by
vanagonturbo
on 06 Jan, 2008 14:06
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can you take a pic of the top of the pump pointing out the adjustments that you made?
What are the cold start screws?
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#19
by
carrizog60
on 06 Jan, 2008 14:10
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the ones in the back of the pump(engine side)
almost have no adjustments in no place and still cant make boost like before...
now i only see a haze of smoke and boost tops at 1.6/1.7 bar at the best...
before i sometimes saw the needle way past 2 bar if i rev the piss out of it...
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#20
by
vanagonturbo
on 06 Jan, 2008 14:14
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what specifically did you change before you noticed this problem?
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#21
by
carrizog60
on 06 Jan, 2008 14:51
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the car went to the shop to change the headgasket(now 1.9),distribution belt,and a refresh pump from a SB.
the pump was not that fresh and in the end the old pump was put again...
tomorrow i will take a pic
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#22
by
carrizog60
on 07 Jan, 2008 13:03
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here are the pics from the pump and were the screws are:
the residual all way out,cant back the idle more with this screw...
the ones in the back are almost to the limit as the cold start knob almost does nothing...
the fuel screw only couple turns in,you can see the stock markings in yellow
as i said before with K24 and closed wastegate i cant pass 1.7 bar when before the pump was opened it will go way past 2 bar... :roll:
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#23
by
vanagonturbo
on 07 Jan, 2008 20:09
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woodruff key aligned properly on the pump sprocket?
Cam timing set with the lock tool?
pump timing was set with the cable pushed in (warm running setup)?
double check pump timing (I had to check a few times)
Is the crank timing being checked on the flywheel ot the crank pulley?
Do you have a harmonic dampener on the crank pulley?
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#24
by
jimfoo
on 07 Jan, 2008 20:28
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Are your Merc nozzles calibrated to the same pressure as your old ones were? If not, that can change the timing.
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#25
by
carrizog60
on 08 Jan, 2008 02:04
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woodruff key aligned properly on the pump sprocket?
dont know what is that...i guesse they didnt touch anything but the t.shaft
Cam timing set with the lock tool?
yes
pump timing was set with the cable pushed in (warm running setup)?
first time when come from the shop yes(was out and you couldnt push it in),went back and they put the knob in(dont know what they do tho)
double check pump timing (I had to check a few times)
yes,1.00mm
Is the crank timing being checked on the flywheel ot the crank pulley?
all timing marks were align recently as the shop left it a tooth off...
Do you have a harmonic dampener on the crank pulley?
what is that?
Are your Merc nozzles calibrated to the same pressure as your old ones were? If not, that can change the timing
yes, new nozzles calibrated to 155 bar
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#26
by
carrizog60
on 08 Jan, 2008 17:08
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#27
by
carrizog60
on 09 Jan, 2008 09:27
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:idea:
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#28
by
jtanguay
on 09 Jan, 2008 10:34
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do you have any fuel leaks/dribbles? maybe his pump was in need of replacement o-ring because of a leak. leak = less internal pressure which = less fuel.
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#29
by
carrizog60
on 09 Jan, 2008 12:54
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no,i see no leaks...
so why in the hell cant i lower the idle more(to add+fuel)?
as you can see my fuel screw looks like the car is underfueles as the screw is outer than with original specs... :roll:
with bloked WG i can only see 1.6/1.7 max...