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#15
by
Audi80
on 05 Sep, 2007 13:40
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Thatīs why you need to block that hole.
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#16
by
carrizog60
on 07 Sep, 2007 13:49
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ok, bad news...
i purchased a rebuilt pump from a guy in other forum and did the governor mod before puting it in the engine.
now my mechanic cant get to make the car running properly...
he said that something is wrong with the pump because the mods that i have done wouldnt do what the engine is doing...
here are the problems:
-car misfires a lot
-lot of smoke(unburn fuel smell)
-the throtle dont respond very good
what can cause this?
the distribution was done with belts and accessories being replaced,can something have gone wrong?
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#17
by
RabbitJockey
on 07 Sep, 2007 14:29
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sounds like maybe bad timing and perhaps he didn't bleed the fuel lines
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#18
by
carrizog60
on 08 Sep, 2007 01:11
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he said everything was ok,the only new factor was the pump... :oops:
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#19
by
Mark(The Miser)UK
on 08 Sep, 2007 06:42
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Do you still have the old pump to stick back on? Keep everything else the same and then you'll know it's the new pump wrong. Then remove govnormod from new pump and try that...
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#20
by
carrizog60
on 08 Sep, 2007 09:44
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if i remove the pump i need to time the engine again...right?
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#21
by
Audi80
on 08 Sep, 2007 10:41
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Of course you have to.
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#22
by
carrizog60
on 15 Sep, 2007 16:07
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with the same pump the car runs now.
bad but runs.
at cold starts it still makes the white/blue smoke with lots of diesel smell and struggles a bit to mantain idle...
hard to start and misfires too.
when warm the idle is more stable and the smoke stops but still misfires, even at idle :x
next weekend its going to the diesel shop to get things done properly, hope that it will be good or else i will have to replace for the old pump... :oops:
any other things that could do this behavior?
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#23
by
burn_your_money
on 15 Sep, 2007 16:15
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try loosening off the injector lines one at a time when it is running. You might have a bad injector.
If the HG didn't seal properly you could also get these symptoms, try a compression test
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#24
by
carrizog60
on 15 Sep, 2007 16:18
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injectors are not in the best shape but they were fine before HG change...
how can the HG be related to those symptoms?
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#25
by
jtanguay
on 15 Sep, 2007 17:00
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injectors are not in the best shape but they were fine before HG change...
how can the HG be related to those symptoms?
easily. bad hg = bad compression = crappy running motor.
edit: wait a minute... you put a 1.9 metal HG on right? that will change the way the car runs... not a lot, but quite noticeably when cold. it is somewhat thicker.
the 2 notch 1.9 is somewhat closer to a 3 notch for a 1.6 i think...
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#26
by
carrizog60
on 16 Sep, 2007 02:45
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its a 3 notch metal gasket.
i dont think that could be that, the car when cold if i rev it it woill fall on its face and dont sustein the idle... :oops:
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#27
by
Audi80
on 16 Sep, 2007 02:58
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Iīd check the pump&cam timing again.
When I put metal gasket, I should have used 1 notch gasket, but I put 3 notch. It smoked a little at cold, misfired a few times. When little warmer, ran fine.
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#28
by
AudiVWguy
on 16 Sep, 2007 19:39
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When I did the metal HG on the NA in the Caddy, I chose A piece of the old HG material. It's the same thickness ( three hole), it's thermal expansion rate would be similar. I chose a section that had a small hole, similar to the hole that should be there. Then I cut and filed until it was a perfect fit. Put the hole in the gasket. With a tooth pick I applied a small amount of copper colored gasket sealer (High Temp) into any remaining areas of the circle to complete the seal. Let it set up for about 2 hours so that when I torqued the head it would squish any sealer and be exactly the same hight as the rest of the head gasket. I've got about 30,000 miles so far and it been flawless.
HELPFUL HINT: Cut 4 of your old head bolts down so they stick up about 4-5 threads with them turned in finger tight. Also cut a slot for a flat blade screw driver to unscrew them after you install the rest of the head bolts and tighten to 10-15 ft lbs. Put them in the four corners. This allows you to set the head in place perfectly! Unscrew the cut studs and use a magnet to slide them out. Install the remaining bolts/studs, tighten to 10-15 ft lbs. Now your ready to tighten to Mfr specs knowing the head gasket was put on there prefectly! (Sorry how long this got)
Hope this helps,
J.B.
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#29
by
AudiVWguy
on 16 Sep, 2007 20:29
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When I did the metal HG on the NA in the Caddy, I chose A piece of the old HG material. It's the same thickness ( three hole), it's thermal expansion rate would be similar. I chose a section that had a small hole, similar to the hole that should be there. Then I cut and filed until it was a perfect fit. Put the hole in the gasket. With a tooth pick I applied a small amount of copper colored gasket sealer (High Temp) into any remaining areas of the circle to complete the seal. Let it set up for about 2 hours so that when I torqued the head it would squish any sealer and be exactly the same hight as the rest of the head gasket. I've got about 30,000 miles so far and it been flawless.
HELPFUL HINT: Cut 4 of your old head bolts down so they stick up about 4-5 threads with them turned in finger tight. Also cut a slot for a flat blade screw driver to unscrew them after you install the rest of the head bolts and tighten to 10-15 ft lbs. Put them in the four corners. This allows you to set the head in place perfectly! Unscrew the cut studs and use a magnet to slide them out. Install the remaining bolts/studs, tighten to 10-15 ft lbs. Now your ready to tighten to Mfr specs knowing the head gasket was put on there prefectly! (Sorry how long this got)
Hope this helps,
J.B.