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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: Powered by Spearco on January 08, 2011, 09:33:36 pm
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I've seen this for sale for a while now, but still looks to be what would need to be for safe drag racing.
http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/2145133921.html (http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/2145133921.html).
I have already went and looked at it once before when the eng. and trans were in it for $3000.
Its really cool with all the body pannels that clip on with Zus fasteners. Plus the seat, full cage, coil over suspension, fire supresion setup, pedals, dash and gauges.
No idea on the weight or any of the cage certifications, but its alot further along than the one I have now. Basiclly just a shell.
Its already been fluffed and buffed, just needs a my engine, trans., intercooler and dodads. ;)
I'd like to hear any opinons. Yes opinons. ;D
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DAMN, good deal there if it is not hammered, and a decent certification on the cage.
-Owen
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Yeah, its a cool car.
I don't know alot about cage certifing, but I can look at the welds and hopefully it has an up to date sticker on it.
The whole front end unclips really quick, along with the rear quarters.
The last time I looked at it, it looked straight. Didn't looked like its been in a wreck.
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I drag race in NHRA pro and sportsman class and they don't require a roll bar untill 11.49. I put a 8-point cage in my car and since I don't run that fast They told me it didn't need to be certified. Been that way over 10 years now.
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Ok, thanks for the info on the cage.
The reason I like the full cage is that later the car will be used for other racing. Maybe Bonneville salt flats. Plus the wife wants it :-[.
I can get a full bolt in or weld in cage from AutoPower, but this one has it already.
I don't think my car will reach those numbers either. I'll try like h3ll though.
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DO IT JOSH!!!
every time i saw that car be re-posted, i kept thinking it needed a new owner, and a compound turbo diesel...
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I hate to say it, but I think that thing needs either a 1.8T or a 2.0 16vT. As cool as the diesel is, a built turbo'd gasser will be the faster car
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I went and took a look at the car. This thing is not a back yard do it your self car. Everything is built to the best it could.
This car was raced all around the PNW in the '90 and held track records for some time. The guy that is selling it was one of the crew that wrenched on it.
The car is basiclly a 3/4 tube chassis. I think the cage was last certified in 2003., but like someone said, in drag racing its not needed till 11.49. The suspension is all Bilstein coil overs with nitrogen and external pressure fittings. The springs are stiff as snit. 350 rear and 450 front :o. Theres some kind of a NASCAR style front sway bar and rear sway bar is like 30mm.
Thers a complete Halon fire supresion setup. With two extra bottles.
Tilton twin brake master cylinders with a bias controll knob at the drivers side.
The front brake calipars are a twin feed line setup. Don't know much about that. But they are huge. Rear are disk and are from a MK3. The front spindles are also MK3, made to fit the MK1 coils.
The doors have been skined and are Zues fastened to the cage with stand offs to sit flush with body. The front body sheet metal pannels are also Zues fastened together and remove in one piece. Really nice feature. The car weighed 1850 with engine and trans so its still light enough to drag race with a diesel.
I'm going to take a look again this weekend and decide then.
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Even if I don't run a diesel, its still a great car for any racing.
I was hoping to race it at Bonneville salt flats with the diesel but the car class is way to compeditive.
So it will have to be for time only. Hopfully 130+MPH
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Well, I bought it. Here is some pics so far.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/GOPR0084.jpg).
(http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/?action-view¤t=GOPR0071.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/GOPR0070.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/GOPR0053.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/GOPR0052.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/GOPR0067.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/GOPR0063-1.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/GOPR0062-1.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/GOPR0080-1.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/GOPR0073.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/GOPR0076-1.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/GOPR0077-1.jpg).
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T D I that thing :D
Sweet and amazing purchase!
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so, when do i get to come look at all your sweet toys??
i need to pick your brain some day soon anyway..
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Boy-someone spent some serious money + time building that-what was it built for originally?
The only nitpicks i have is the front sway bar seems like an afterthought + came off a bulldozer. It just doesnt seem the same build quality as the time someone put into things like the fuel cell cover.
The rollcage seems (maybe just the angle of the pics) like they build the hoop over the driver-and then built a full cage around it-and missed on the right side. For drag racing, you could never put in enuff motor to go any faster than that much cage would be good for. For LSR racing, I see just a little bit they would want to fix if you were going over 150. But hey-its just metal-its a race car do whatever you need to-that the fun of it. ;D
I'd hillclimb the thing-with as much motor as you can bolt into the mounts--diesel or otherwise.
Good find-you paid someone who was good at at building + engineering .05 an hour for their hard work-and got all the parts thrown in for free. 8)
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Here is some info on the car.
The car was initially constructed by Jerry Slotkin and campaigned in the early days of the old NASPORT series. Slotkin sold the car to George Dennis who, along with his tech. Rick Bixby, raced the car quite successfully in Oregon Region SCCA and Conference races from the mid-1990's until the guy Dave I bought it from in 1997. The car had won Oregon Region SCCA GT4 championships and ICSCC championships. The car has had regional track records at Portland International Raceway, Spokane Park, Mission Raceway and Port Orford. In 1999 the car was converted from its 1.6LGT$ motor to a stepped-up 2.0L motor which I did not get. The car ran in SPU. It also champaigned in endurance events.
The top bar of the cage is as it needs to be. There is many certifications stickers stacked up on the bar.
Right now its going to be a drag racer but eventually it will go to Bonneville.
The front sway bar does look like its been there for quite some time as the fire wallhas been cut out to fit it. But couldof been an after thought.
I'll post more pics as it progresses.
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I removed some things such as the PWR. steering brackets and resivior, also some mounting tabs for other things that were not needed.
Put together a engine and trans for mock up and to check what was needed to be added as far as engine and trans mounts go.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00455-20110124-1934.jpg).
Yes the engine is a 2.0L 16V block but thats all I had at the shop that was empty.
I decided to build an engine mount on the back side of the block for the timming belt side like the MK2 mount. It gives me more room for the T belt and tensioner. The mount is a MK1 rear beam urethane bushing and sleeve.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00462-20110125-1738.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00454-20110124-1934.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00457-20110124-1941.jpg).
Still need to add some tubing to the back side of the mount so that the bolts don't pull it out of shape and do some finnal welding.
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The trans I'm going to use is the 02J. So the 02O mount at the frame will need to be modified to fit the trans. Once the engine mount is done I'll swap out the trans with an empty one and start making a mount to fit the on on the frame.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00456-20110124-1935.jpg).
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This is gonna be nuts! I'm definitely watching this one! ;D
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Sorry for the small update. Had to work late before working on the car.
Made the frame mounts that hold the Pass side engine bracket, and tacked them in place.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00477-20110126-2006.jpg).
So just need to finnish welding them in and there done.
I swaped out the trans for an empty 02J trans to check out whats needed to mount it up.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00468-20110126-2002.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00469-20110126-2002.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00473-20110126-2004.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00470-20110126-2003.jpg).
As you can see its a real close tight fit but it fits. I can add a spacer to the back bolt hole on trans and drill a new hole, but the front hole will need something to mount to. I really don't want to mount it solid, but will see tomarrow.
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Well I got the trans mount figured out. I used the other rabbit rear beam poly bushing and mount.
I just cut a little off the ear to make some clearance. Centered it up and drilled some holes and bolted it up. Next I got some 2x2x1/4 inch L channel and figured out where to put it and drilled a hole through to trans. Measured to the back hole and drilled it. Next used some 3/16 plate scrap to make the mounting tab for the bolt through. Tack welded it up, pull it off, chucked it up in a vice and welded it up good.
Take a look. What do you think? ::)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00480-20110129-1153.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00481-20110129-1154.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00485-20110129-1250.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00489-20110129-1343.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00496-20110129-1431.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00495-20110129-1431.jpg).
Now its some holding weight.
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Heres some pics that can confuse someone. It just for laughs, though.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00497-20110129-1542.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00498-20110129-1543.jpg).
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this thing is cool
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Thanks.
I just sold the 22 gallon fuel cell for $200, that makes the total investment for the car at $1600. :D
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Are those ITB's on a diesel? :D
May not give you the best performance running N/A through ITB's, but it sure wins a lot of cool points!
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They are on there just a joke. Not going to use them.
They are from an old belt driven mechanical fuel injection system for 1.6L gas Rabbit.
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those old belt driven injection deals are neat.
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I figured it was a joke, never knew about any belt driven diesel's though!
Will the car be run with that 02J trans?
And what are you planning as far as turbocharger(s)?
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The engine and trans are all ready in my truck. It dyno'd at 181hp and 197tq. with 30psi of boost.
The turbo is from a diesel Mercedes 300SD.
the trans is a MK4 TDI trans with a Peloquin diff and arp bolts. The shift linkage in still the old rod linkage but the clutch actuator is mechanical unit from a early Eurovan.
I plan to run a dual stage NOS setup to. I need to install it into the truck before pulling everything out and putting it all in the Rocco. That way I can tune it while being able to drive it on the road.
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Any more info on that engine? :o Mods other than ARP etc, and what pump is it running? Some very nice numbers, particularly for a 1.6L!
I tried searching, but all I found was this thread here (http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=22108.0), but everything is private and a picture of the max numbers on the dyno. Crazy running it to 6k rpm haha
You can PM if you want to keep this clean, but it is related to the thread as it's going into this scirocco!
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The block is a '85 MF mechanical one, 1.0mm. over boar. Stock crank and rods tired down with ARP hardwear. The deck has been resurfaced and rods resized and bushed. The deck has been drilled for cooling passages to match the AAZ MLS head gasket. The complete rotating assembly has been balanced, clutch too. AAZ cylinderhead, match ported and pocket ported. T.T. 8 valve HD high rev valve springs. Stock cam, soon to be upgraded. The intake manifold is a match ported Corrado G60 thats beed thermal coated. Exhaust manifold is an ebay style special, T3 flange, thats also been thermo coated and match ported. Injectors are AAZ bodies with real Bosio Fratelli GTD nozzles set to stock presures and ballanced. The pump Giles did for me. It could be the standard hot rod pump, but only he knows. I did have him install my TDI 10mm pump head assembly rotor and plunger. I'm sure he added the AAZ cam plate and rollers. The trans, is like I described. The clutch is the ECS's G60 lightened FW with a stock VR6 disc and PP. Which seems to hold just fine for now. I think they are reated at 275hp. Using Scirocco 16V 100mm CV's and late '91-'92 Cabby steering knuckels.
Is that the info your looking for?
Yes,its all going into the Scirocco, which weighs 1850lbs with engine and trans.
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Yes, that answered everything I was wondering about it! :)
Can't wait to see/hear this thing rip!
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Yeah, I can say the same about yours. Can't wait to see and hear the video.
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Had some time tonight to start the lower trans/engine mount. I'm going with the pendulum style mount from a MK4. As the trans has bosses in it all ready.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00507-20110201-1827.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00508-20110201-1827.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00511-20110201-1828.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00512-20110201-1934.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00514-20110201-2044.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00516-20110201-2045.jpg).
It got late, so I made some templates out of cardboard so all thats needed is to cut them out and drill some holes and finnish welleding the side plates.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00518-20110201-2058.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00517-20110201-2057.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00521-20110201-2107.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00523-20110201-2107.jpg).
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Man, yer good :D
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Aw, come one. I'm no different than what anyone else would do.
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any videos of the truck driving? why haven't you whored out a 180whp idi, when dave did that every one *** a brick. how about a dyno print.
saw the dyno picture, no graph unfortunately, but it was cool to see, its interesting you did it with the mercedes turbo too i remember dave used a t3/to4e and it surged like a mofo.
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Whats to whore out, a clapped out 'ol diesel truck :P. Seriously though, big deal its got 180hp. thats not whats cool. Whats cool is that I did it, I built it, and I resurched it for two years from here. Anyone can do it too. Just read, ask questions and spend some money. The finnal result is cool.
At first I didn't think it would even have 150hp. I seem to always exspect little to none, but when the numbers showed the real output, I was blown away. I can't wait till the NOS goes on.
Yes the turbo does choke up but its late in the RPM band. I'll have to wait till the NOS is on and dialed in to figure out whats the next size turbo to go with.
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180HP from a small diesel is nothing to sneeze at, its quite an accomplishment, especially if you can still drive it regularly(and comfortably)
I do expect plenty of pics of the motor when it goes in this chassis though!
-Owen
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Oh yes. Its being fully documented.
As you can probably tell, I don't do to well with build threads as I don't have the time, but I can post pics like a mofo.
Not to much to update, but got the upper bracket made. Man it take for ever using the band saw, so i busted out the torch and chopped out this.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00528-20110202-2044.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00529-20110202-2044.jpg).
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I hav'nt driven the truck lately, but I can go out and start it any time with or with out the block heater with a gas starter and a peuny battery and it'll start right up.
There is some boost leaks that I hear when throttling it up for a long time. So that'll need to be taken care of on the dyno next time. But yes, its fun.
I love it when someone behind me tail gates me. Just down shift and stand on it with the brake one. You can't even see their head lights. ;D
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I hav'nt driven the truck lately, but I can go out and start it any time with or with out the block heater with a gas starter and a peuny battery and it'll start right up.
There is some boost leaks that I hear when throttling it up for a long time. So that'll need to be taken care of on the dyno next time. But yes, its fun.
I love it when someone behind me tail gates me. Just down shift and stand on it with the brake one. You can't even see their head lights. ;D
haha i do the same thing to tail gaters, its great to be able to combat them. Truck is sweet 180whp is certainly nothing to sneeze at as said, few in the US and world even have done it, and think how tiny of an engine it has and the rpm it makes the power at, how does it drive as compared to your turbo mazdas and such. also make a video man come on.
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Well, driving a gas turboed car thats AWD compaired to a FWD turbo diesel is really no compairison.
Its nice to drive the GTX, but the VW in me likes the truck more. Its nice to get in the GTX and go, and have heat almost right away. I only work 3 miles from home.
I'll try and get some video of it running a test run with the Gtech.
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Found it. ;D
http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/?action=view¤t=GOPR0009.mp4 (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/?action=view¤t=GOPR0009.mp4).
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Wow, view it in full screen.
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Finnished the rear mount bracket and finnally finnished welding the engine bracket to the frame.
I used a hole saw to cut two holes and trimed out the extra between them to fit the mount. It worked out great.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00544-20110205-1535.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00542-20110205-1535.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00551-20110205-1612.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00537-20110205-1520.jpg).
I'll be using a track density rear mount so it'll match the other poly mounts. The stock one seemed to flimmsy. All though, I don't think that just three mounts will be enough to hold the engine still. I'll need to make a front mount, but after the radiator, plumbing for intercooler and such is in place. Its easier to build around them than modifing the radiator.
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(http://www.reid.org/~dreid/Drake/drake8vmotor.jpg)
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That motor looked just like the one that was in the car but dual side draft 45's.
Not much to update as I've been very busy with work. Plus by the time the days over, I'm over. :-\.
The car will be towed back to my house, and put on jack stands. I'll pull off the front controll arms, sand blast them and paint them. Figure out where to mount the radiator, intercooler and fuel tank.
The brake pedals are a Tilton dual master cylinder setup, but the hight of the pedals are in the air compaired to the throttle. so they will need to be pulled off and adjusted/modified so they are at a more comfortable angle. Still need to go through the wiring and find out whats what at the switches/rockers.
Maybe I'll add some just for the diesel and then remove whats not needed. Need to order up the suspension that I'm going to run with. I think Raceland or Rocker. They don't need to give any kind of ride comfort, just adjustability. Plus the price is afordable.
Sand down the engine bay and treat any areas with POR15 and paint it. Peel off most of the stickers. Replace two of the wheels as they are bent and don't hold air for long. Thankfully they are cheap to replace, $69 each. order up some drag slicks. Order up a seat cover and string up the new seat belts.
Anyway, the list goes on as you can tell.
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Been a long time but I have done some things to the Scirocco. So lets update.
Got the shifter box frame made up, positioned and bolted down.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00648-20110309-2034.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00647-20110309-2034.jpg).
Got started on mounting the intercooler and radiator. Still need to figure out a way to hold the top of radiator. Intercooler is bolted in to a frame thats been welded to the chassis.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00649-20110309-2035.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00650-20110309-2035.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00615-20110223-2046.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00616-20110223-2046.jpg).
Also started to make the cooling system hoses. The drivers side coolant flange at head has been deleted but a temp sensor is still there. The upper and lower radiator hoses are a mix of hoses that I cut up to fit the areas where needed. The front coolant flange is a AHU plastic one with the little return nipple that will go to the over flow bottle. the heat exchanger hoses are from a 2.0LXflow. so the return from the over flow bottle can flow back to pump.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00651-20110309-2035.jpg)
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Raceland Coilovers should be here tomarrow along with the 12" fan and mounting hardwear.
I'll stay late to install those parts and finnish the cooling hoses.
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For the rad, make 2 metal dog bones out of flat bar and tie it into the grille support.
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Got the coilovers today :D. But they won't go far enough down, and no I'm not going to modify them. I guess I'm going to have to rebuild the Carrera ones. So I gave up for the rest of the night.
So anyone interested in a set of new/used Raceland coilovers for MK1?
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Well, change of plans. I decided to get rid of the front mount intercooler and go water to air intercooler.
So I cut and ground off all the mounts for the front mount and reposioned the radiator.now I can flip it over the right way and use stock hoses and coolant flanges.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00665-20110314-2004.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00666-20110314-2004.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00667-20110314-2005.jpg).
It leaves me more room for the external oil cooler flange, hoses and the radiator fan, which hasn't showed up yet.
The water to air intercooler setup I'm going to use from Frozen Boost, and is a decent deal.
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The fan finally showed up. So I got it mounted. Also welded up some tabs on the frame for the remote oil filter. I'm happy with it.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00670-20110316-2056.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00673-20110316-2057.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00671-20110316-2057.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00672-20110316-2057.jpg).
Also a shot of what stock Rabbit front struts would look like on the car. No way would theyeven come close to working. I found a guy locally that can rebuild the struts. Come to find out that he built the ones on the car way back in the day. They are Bilsteins with Nitrogen bags internally that he made. Cool huh.
So for $75, he can rebuild them, new oil, seals, fittings and a shock dyno print out.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00669-20110314-2006-1.jpg).
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I got the water to air intercooler. Looking for the best location to mount it. I think that over the trans might be one? Seems to fit in this location and have the shortest hose connections for max flow.
I taped it up as to not scratch it. Its just resting there to get an idea.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00689-20110324-1812.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00693-20110324-1828.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00694-20110324-1828.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00690-20110324-1812.jpg).
I might think about mounting the intercooler in the cab and run hoses through the firewall.
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yeah, its lookin a bit crowded under there.
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Got my shock inserts back from the Shock Shop. They look great and are all cleaned up with new oil, seals and new fitting. Also got the dyno output sheet.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00711-20110329-2043.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00710-20110329-2042.jpg).
I'll get them assembled and get more pics later.
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Small update.
The shocks fit great but the nitrogen fittings on top are a straight fitting. I need 90* ones as to clear the hood and not rub the line.
I found some 90* swivel fittings right accross the street and got them for free. They look great and fit even better than before.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00791-20110413-1640.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00786-20110413-1636.jpg).
Also got some fittings to get the 2stage NOS all together. Need to mount the nozzels in the boost hose at intake and get a Hobbs switch.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00793-20110413-1935.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00795-20110413-1935.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00796-20110413-1936.jpg).
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Also got a Tilton Universal Master Cylinder kit for the clutch. Its cable now but I'm using the O2J trans and clutch slave so I need it . It should be an easy add on due to theres already a full Tilton peddal assembly there. Just drill a couple of hole in fire wall and its mounted. ;)
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Looks awesome Josh, just be careful with the Teflon tape because it does'nt take much to hold a solenoid open or clog a jet.
If a solenoid sticks open the only way to stop nitrous flow is to close the bottle. A inline filter is a good idea too mounted
between the bottle and the tee. Make sure whoever fills your bottles has a filter on their fill station.
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Yeah, I made sure that none of the tape rolled over the end of the fitting as to get into the solenoid.
I'll make sure that who ever fills the take is filtering it.
Man, there's no way I'd work with all those open holes.
.
What open holes. The body of the car? ;D
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What open holes. The body of the car? ;D
I think the oil lines, vac pump, missing vc, injectors, intake, coolant and all the ones I missed.
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Ha ha. That engine and trans are all just for mock up. Neither of them will be used. I thought that Andrew was talking about the holes in the body.
The engine and trans that will be used, are in my truck, which runs and drives. Its in the truck so I can drive it on the street leagally and be able to tune it. I'd hate to try and drive the Scirocco and tune it just on the track or dyno. That would be expensive. Allthough the Scirocco will hopefully be street legal and registered as a club/exhibitionist only vehicle. That way I can drive it to the track and car shows.
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Got the NOS bungs welded on to the boost pipe today. What do you think?
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00797-20110414-1228.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00798-20110414-1228.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00799-20110414-1229.jpg).
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That's gonna be one cold pipe and intake!!!
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I might not even need an intercooler.
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I might not even need an intercooler.
im not gonna have my intercooler plumbed in whenever i got a bottle of gas..
i wanna get some sort of an intercooler like what you have. the A2W..
oh, do you still have the PT loozer intercooler by chance?
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No, I never had one but a friend did. I'll check if he still does.
I got the nitrous hooked up on Sat. I'm only running the one solenoid for now. I need to get some other things figured out first. Also noticed that my throttle cable is far too streched out to reach full throttle. Just adjusting it felt like 20HP. Really.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00801-20110417-1936.jpg) .
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00802-20110417-1936.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00805-20110417-1937.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00804-20110417-1937.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00807-20110417-1939.jpg).
I'm using an .018 inch jet, and don't really notice any differance right off the line and my EGTs are still at 1300F. Like I said, the throttle cable is too streched out, so a new one is in order before more tuning.
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Great job on the installation Josh. According to the dyno tune jet calculator, (for a wet system, not our dry system) the .018 jet is 15hp.The first jet I tried was .024=25hp.
With the .024 jet I only felt a slight acceleration until I turned in the fuel screw about 1/4 turn (Na IP). Better but not what I hoped for so
I went to a .028 jet= 35 hp and another 1/4 turn on fuel screw, now I was getting somewhere so a month or so later I tried the .032 jet=50 hp with the fuel screw
3/4 to 1 turn from stock and am very pleased with the results. Also with the bottle off, no line pressure, key on engine off, arming switch on, floor throttle and verify solenoid click.
Takes a few seconds to purge air out of line after bottle change too.
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Great job on the installation Josh. According to the dyno tune jet calculator, (for a wet system, not our dry system) the .018 jet is 15hp.The first jet I tried was .024=25hp.
With the .024 jet I only felt a slight acceleration until I turned in the fuel screw about 1/4 turn (Na IP). Better but not what I hoped for so
I went to a .028 jet= 35 hp and another 1/4 turn on fuel screw, now I was getting somewhere so a month or so later I tried the .032 jet=50 hp with the fuel screw
3/4 to 1 turn from stock and am very pleased with the results. Also with the bottle off, no line pressure, key on engine off, arming switch on, floor throttle and verify solenoid click.
Takes a few seconds to purge air out of line after bottle change too.
i think i was using the 028 jet on my n/a 1.6
you could definitely feel the nitrous come on, with the n/a anyways..
and you guys are both correct about the throttle cable. the last 1/4" of pump travel is where it really starts building power on my car, but i run a n/a fuel pump, dunno if that really matter tho.
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Can I ask what you used to bolt onto the end of the GTI inlet manifold to fit an intake instead of a throttle body? If I can make something up I may fit my spare GTI intake mani!
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Can I ask what you used to bolt onto the end of the GTI inlet manifold to fit an intake instead of a throttle body? If I can make something up I may fit my spare GTI intake mani!
i took some aluminum scraps and made up an adapter..
just a flat chunk of aluminum plate, with a chunk of tubing welded to it so i could hook up my charge piping..
you HAVE TO have a low mounted turbo to run a gasser intake tho.. a stock, high mounted turbo will hit the intake badly.
basically, you have to run a TDI turbo of some sort, or flip your stock turbo and manifold..
you have a mk2 GTD dont you? T2 turbo mounted right behind the stock intake mani? if so, then its not an easy conversion to run a gasser intake..
i had to cut some mounting bosses off the intake, and grind a boss off the EGR hook up on the turbo, had to weld the EGR port closed also.. and that was with a VNT turbo, they mount REALLY LOW.
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Far too much effort for me then! Just thought it would make my life a bit easier when it comes to fitting FMIC pipework. I thought my GTD would have a K14?
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Far too much effort for me then! Just thought it would make my life a bit easier when it comes to fitting FMIC pipework. I thought my GTD would have a K14?
T2 and K14 are basically identical turbos, in terms of specifications, just made by different companys. i swear that more came with a T2 than a K14 tho, but i could be wrong..
as for the gasser intake, its FAR FROM a bolt-on-and-go affair..
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Thanks for the compliments. I made sure that the bottle was purged before fastening it to nozzle.
From a stand still, full throttle, nothing different happens untill turbo boost hits 10psi. Then black smoke rolles out till 20 something psi then clears. Thats most likely due to the nitrous helping to burn the excess fuel. But like I said, I need to figure out some different locations for boost ref., for boost controller, gauge and LDA ref. Right now the gauge and boost controller ref. is shared from same port on intake. The LDA is T'ed from the boost controll wastegate ref.to the boost box. Also a new Hobbs swt. that is adjustable from 5psi-15psi.
My intake manifold is from a Carrodo G60, but has been modified. The inlet adapter to manifold is from
BonBrennerMotorsport and is about $45. but mine was used and had holes in it, so it was free.
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Thanks for the compliments. I made sure that the bottle was purged before fastening it to nozzle.
From a stand still, full throttle, nothing different happens untill turbo boost hits 10psi. Then black smoke rolles out till 20 something psi then clears. Thats most likely due to the nitrous helping to burn the excess fuel. But like I said, I need to figure out some different locations for boost ref., for boost controller, gauge and LDA ref. Right now the gauge and boost controller ref. is shared from same port on intake. The LDA is T'ed from the boost controll wastegate ref.to the boost box. Also a new Hobbs swt. that is adjustable from 5psi-15psi.
My intake manifold is from a Carrodo G60, but has been modified. The inlet adapter to manifold is from
BonBrennerMotorsport and is about $45. but mine was used and had holes in it, so it was free.
I'm running less boost and a na pump, but the best way to feel the nitrous is to floor it and take it up to 50-55 mph in 4th gear, then flip the arming switch on and off a few times.
I take someone along to keep an eye on boost and egt so I can compare with and without nitrous. With the .018 jet you're only gonna feel a little nudge if anything.
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Ok. Thats kind of what I thought. I'll go up to a .032 jet size and recheck.
There is on thing that I would like to redo on the full throttle switch, is to have it activate sooner in the throw of the throttle and have it contiunue all the way to full throttle limiter.
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I know what ya mean about hitting the micro switch before full throttle. Been thinking about ditching it and putting on a brake light switch or something with a longer stroke.
Also been thinking about a shifter nob w/ push button, but thats gonna empty tanks fast!!!
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T2 and K14 are basically identical turbos, in terms of specifications, just made by different companys. i swear that more came with a T2 than a K14 tho, but i could be wrong..
Depends what country you are in. Across the pond a lot of k14s were watercooled and therefore are quite a bit different physically. How and when they build boost is the same though I think.
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Thanks for the compliments. I made sure that the bottle was purged before fastening it to nozzle.
From a stand still, full throttle, nothing different happens untill turbo boost hits 10psi. Then black smoke rolles out till 20 something psi then clears. Thats most likely due to the nitrous helping to burn the excess fuel. But like I said, I need to figure out some different locations for boost ref., for boost controller, gauge and LDA ref. Right now the gauge and boost controller ref. is shared from same port on intake. The LDA is T'ed from the boost controll wastegate ref.to the boost box. Also a new Hobbs swt. that is adjustable from 5psi-15psi.
My intake manifold is from a Carrodo G60, but has been modified. The inlet adapter to manifold is from
BonBrennerMotorsport and is about $45. but mine was used and had holes in it, so it was free.
what turbo you running again, Josh?
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T2 and K14 are basically identical turbos, in terms of specifications, just made by different companys. i swear that more came with a T2 than a K14 tho, but i could be wrong..
Depends what country you are in. Across the pond a lot of k14s were watercooled and therefore are quite a bit different physically. How and when they build boost is the same though I think.
only the "RA/SB" 1.6TD had the watercolled K14, that is the intercooled ones, the others had "standard" K14 or T2's
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I know what ya mean about hitting the micro switch before full throttle. Been thinking about ditching it and putting on a brake light switch or something with a longer stroke.
Also been thinking about a shifter nob w/ push button, but thats gonna empty tanks fast!!!
my switch didnt activate my nos till right when i got to full throttle.. anyone care to see where i had my WOT switch, and what part of the throttle arm it was working from? cause it worked good, it never came on till i was at full throttle..
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The turbo I'm using is from an '80s Mercedes 300 turbo diesel. Its a Garrett T3 frame but the trim is different. The ex. AR. is 48 and comp. AR is 42. I think maybe the comp. trim is a P? The turbo inlet flange is T3 and the ex. outlet is a T31, same as the stock turbos on VWs.
Yeah. ROR. post up some pics of your swt. location.
PS. I have an old Hurst shifter with a NOS button! ;D
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The turbo I'm using is from an '80s Mercedes 300 turbo diesel. Its a Garrett T3 frame but the trim is different. The ex. AR. is 48 and comp. AR is 42. I think maybe the comp. trim is a P? The turbo inlet flange is T3 and the ex. outlet is a T31, same as the stock turbos on VWs.
Yeah. ROR. post up some pics of your swt. location.
PS. I have an old Hurst shifter with a NOS button! ;D
i really hate you now.. (but not really) im sure its probably the same shifter i have on my GTI, but with the button IVE ALWAYS WANTED!!
so did you take and make a merc T3 fit in a VW exhaust housing? cause i know that a merc t3 has a regular T3 pattern doesnt it?
and i will have pics up in a half hour or so, i gotta go take some.
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I'm using an Ebay T3 ex. manifold thats been coated.
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I'm using an Ebay T3 ex. manifold thats been coated.
ah, thats kinda what i figured..
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Small update.
Bought and installed a Tilton universal clutch master cylinder and resevior kit. Had a stainless flex line made up with the proper fittings to connect to a MK3 clutch slave cylinder. It looks great, and boy is the pedal movement nice and short. About three inches of travel. I used a 7/8" boar master cylinder as to make the pedal effort less than with the stock boar size of 3/4". The clutch is a stock VR6 disk and pressure plate, but the flywheel is an ECS lightened G60 unit. Even with it in the truck and using the cable converter thingy, it feels about like a 210mm 16V clutch.
I hooked up a battery to check out some of the wiring and whats what. I labled the toggle switches and rocker switches, labled the engine wiring connections and tested the starting circuit. All good there.
Ordered a new Kirkey Economy Drag seat as the one that was in ther was a circle track seat and kind of hurt under the arm pits. Plus a seat cover thats got the sewed in padding. It'll need to have new seat brackets made to mount it compaired to the old seat.
Sent on of the wheels off to a buddy of mine who is a wheel and tire dealer to see if it can be repaired. Hopefully it can be fixed but at $75 an hour,it might just get replaced. He seems to think it'll balance out just fine. I hope so.
Well there ya go., More pics later of progress.
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Today I went to the shop to work on the nitrous setup on the truck. First off, just replacing the throttle cable, made all the differance. Tons of power and lots of smoke. Even with the NOS on. Remember, its the .018 jet. So I figured to just try the .042 jet and see what would happen. WWWWWOOOOOOOOWWWW. Shut the front door!!! :o :o :o.
This truck hauls ass now. I'm talking, throw you in the seat and hold on hauling ass.
Still blows smoke but is now a grayish color now.
All I know is that this next weekend at the diesel dyno day, I expect to see at least a 200HP number. Seriously, it almost looses traction in third it. It pulls hard right to redline.
I made some vids of it on my test drives.
The first test drive, I swear, someone in a 240SX wanted to race. Of course he won, but I kept right with him. He looked worried, wondering why I was still so close.
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Videos are uploading and will be posted tonight.
Man, this engine is going to be awsome in the Scirocco.
One thing I did notice was that the EGTs are still high. So I'm thinking either more nitrous or H2o/Meth injection. Also the front mount intercooler is completely worthless in town. Heat soaked after the first blast. Maybe a nitrous bar in front of the intercooler. But how cares about the truck, its all going into the Scirocco with a water to air intercooler anyways.
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I am looking forward to the videos. Sounds awesome.
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thats nice to stay with a 240sx. a friend of mine has one with an sr20 and 14psi with a big exhaust, that thing is insane ass end floats around at 70-80 mph, and he really hasn't done anything to it, just a stock engine with more boost, a big intercooler, and a big exhaust. can't wait for the vids
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Ok, so heres two videos of the testing. As you can see, theres a puff of white smoke just before the black smoke and then gray. The white is most likely due to no boost and a thermal loss. Then the black smoke is from the fueling during boost and then gray that ends up being cleaned up with boost and nitrous. My peak boost is 30 psi and my max EGT is 1300*F.
Sorry the sound is not so good but its what I got. So turn it up.
http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/?action=view¤t=GOPR0037.mp4 (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/?action=view¤t=GOPR0037.mp4).
http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/?action=view¤t=GOPR0038-1.mp4 (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/?action=view¤t=GOPR0038-1.mp4)
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videos dont work... :(
all better!
looks good!
-Owen
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Osama Bin Laden is dead!
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hey wondering for a friend, was the g60 intake easy to port out to the 1.9 head, or did u need to add material?
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I had to add some to the top of each port to make it a smooth transition. Plus it got to thin on top if you don't.
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also cool videos, that thing really sounds good, its an interesting note almost like a gasser then u come back to a clackity idle. great work as always sir
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Thanks.
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Cool vids Josh, I can tell when the nitrous hits in the 2nd vid. At the 7 second mark.
Mine hit hard in 3rd awhile back and I swear the clutch was slipping.
Did you notice boost climbing any quicker?
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Oh yeah. It slams over to 30psi right away anywhere past 3k RPM mark. Anything before just makes a funny noise, and by noise I mean like poping sound.
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Oh yeah. It slams over to 30psi right away anywhere past 3k RPM mark. Anything before just makes a funny noise, and by noise I mean like poping sound.
I've heard that once on my caddy, thought I busted a cv joint. I was in 5th and mashed the throttle at too low rpm's, started bucking and popping.
Now I pull it into 4th and let the rpms come up before I floor it. Have'nt heard that nasty sound again.
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I basicly do the same. I just don't give it full throttle until the RPMs and boost get to about 2500-3000 and 10PSI.
I'm not to worried about clutch slipage yet as its a VR6 disc and PP. But its getting a pounding though.
I'll try to get some better videos of a fly by or a cabin shot some time this week.
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Oh man, this is sweet... I can't wait to see what that engine puts out!
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It was 181HP and 197TQ with just 30 PSI. The butt dyno feels as I've gained some.
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It was 181HP and 197TQ with just 30 PSI. The butt dyno feels as I've gained some.
Nice numbers, this is a 1.6 block/1.9 head right?
How high was the rpm when you got those numbers?
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Yes, 1.6 TD mech. block with 1.9 AAZ head.
RPM at peak HP and TQ was 4833RPM for HP and 4829RPM for TQ.
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dude thats like totally the same rpm basically :o
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...which means slow spool ;) Did you log the boost pressure vs. rpm on the dyno run?
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No, I didn't,but will the next time at the dyno.
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I'm thinking of an intake manifold idea. I'd like to mount the H2O/OXY intercooler in the cab, just behind the fire wall, and cut holes as to run the boost hoses to it. It'll help to minimize the clutter in the engine bay, and keep the heat under the hood to a minimum. Well at first thought.
So the lower intake manifold is from a MK2 NA diesel, then adding a 4" round pipe for the plenum and then connecting to it, sheet aluminium tapered down to a 3" port for a hose to connect to the intercooler.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00832-20110503-0822.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00833-20110503-0823.jpg).
Or maybe like this.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00834-20110503-0824.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00835-20110503-0825.jpg).
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Small update.
Got the new seat and cover. Made some mounts and installed it. Also got some new seat belts. Finally fab'ed up a front engine mount to the front frame. I think I'm all done with the moc up engine in the Scoircco. So I puled it out so I can get busy on cleaning and painting the front of the car before the trucks setup goes in. I'll need to make all new piping for the intercooler and a new location. Oh, a new set of front wheels for the slicks. I have'nt got those yet as I need to figure out if 23" slicks is going to be better than 22" slicks. It'll give more of a load on engine to be able to build boost sooner, also to strech out the gears.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00851-20110504-1846.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00852-20110504-1847.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00883-20110528-1534-1.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00886-20110528-1539-1.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00885-20110528-1538-1.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00884-20110528-1538.jpg).
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Spent more time at the shop today, cleaning and painting parts.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00887-20110530-1630.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00888-20110530-1630.jpg).
Heres a pic of the new seat in the car.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00894-20110530-1633.jpg).
Also started mounting the new door on passenger side. The origanal one didn't have a window piller, so I needed to put on a new door to do so.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00891-20110530-1632.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00890-20110530-1632.jpg).
I bought a new Cal style front windshield seal and had it installed with a good used window. Looks much better.
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Here's a pic of one of the new front wheels.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00889-20110530-1631.jpg).
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Looking good Josh, just wanted you to be aware of a couple things.
The tech guy made me put in a back brace from the cage to the seat like this.
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz63/dawgsrepo/IMG_0708.jpg)
And also on the slicks remember that they grow several inches on the top end so
leave a little room so they don't rub. Check out this guy, it may be a little excessive.
Also if you run your tire pressure this low rim screws are a must.
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz63/dawgsrepo/IMG_0486.jpg)
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Hey Andrew. Thats what I was tring to show in that pic. Yes thats what I'd like to do but the space under the hood is getting busy. I think that I'm going to mount the intercooler right behind the fire wall with the hose ends facing the engine and then plumming it from there.
Thanks for the advice on the seat back. The back head rest part of the seat is touching the seat belt bar of the roll bar itself. So it shoud be ok, but I guess I'll find out when the time comes.
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I forgot to mention that the shoulder harness to cross bar attachment has to have something to prevent the
loop on the cross bar from sliding left to right. You can see mine is in between the two upper seat braces, but
it can be something as simple as a couple of muffler clamps. The whole idea is to keep your head from going out the window
in a rollover or hard side impact by attaching the seat top and shoulder harness to the cross bar.
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Got it. I remember having to do something very similar to an R32 rollbar. We just bent up some 1/8th in. round stock and welded it on, then laced the belts through.
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i like this project :)
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Sorry, not much to update. I just can't get any decent quality time but a little here and there time.
So I cut off the tubing that had been modified by the PO and welded in the replacement.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00919-20110611-1433.jpg) .
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00918-20110611-1433.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00921-20110611-1434.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00920-20110611-1434.jpg).
Next thing to take care of is the steering rack. Its got a PWR. rack now but I want to remove it and replace it with a manual rack, but the PO had addapted it to the later style passenger mount. If you look at the last pic. on the passenger side rack mounting area, its been modified/hacked to fit the later two bolt style mount. Thats great but the way they did it, the rack won't fit right/flush against the mount. Pluss the strap the used to fasten the PRW rack was hacked up out of scrap. So I need to re-do that mount.
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I also got a nitrous blow down tube setup along with a nitrous bottle gauge. All from Dyno Tune Nitrous.
Here is a link to some of the up-coming hill climbing events that I'd like to attend.
http://www.nhahillclimb.org/ (http://www.nhahillclimb.org/).
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So here is a pic of the craptastickle job of the PO and their idea of adding a steering rack mount.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00943-20110614-1806.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00942-20110614-1805.jpg).
I never knew that steering racks for MK1 had differed so much.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00940-20110614-1805.jpg).
Top is the PWR rack that was in when i got the car. Middle one is a new, late MK1 that uses two
mounting hoops and the bottom is an early MK1 rack that has just one mount on the passenger side.
After tring to bolt up the new later MK1 rack. It doesn't even come close to fitting right. The early Mk1 rack is just as bad. No worky. So I guess I'm going to have to cut all that crap off and start over new and make it fit the right way.
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Small update. After searching on Etka, I found out what parts I have and what are compatable. The blue rack is from an '82 Rabbit with PWR. steering. The steering shaft on the car has been modified to fit the PWR. rack sence they have different splines. No wonder nothing fits right. Anyway, the two bolts on the drivers side mount are spaced differently compaired to later Scirocco and Rabbits. They are wider. No wonder the straps they had on there were "custom" ::) :P.
So I decided to use the fresh rebuilt early style steering rack sence it fits the two blots on the drivers side. Also I grabed the steering shaft off of my parts Scirocco which has the same PN of both Rabbit and Scirocco so I know it fits. I still had to de-modify the passenger side crap that was there. So I cut off the top nut and bottom bolt that was welded and cut the boxed piece and adjusted it to reinforce that side.
The rack needed to be brought out just a bit with some nuts to clear the framing on drivers side and passenger side to keep it parrallel.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00955-20110616-1914.jpg)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00949-20110616-1912.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00954-20110616-1914.jpg)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00952-20110616-1913.jpg)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00957-20110616-1925.jpg)
Its just tack welded for know to make sure the tierod ends would fit and have proper adjustment.
I know that the fix is not to the same build quality as the other stuff but the firewall metal is so thin, grinding it would take for ever and it won't be seen, but it is much stronger than just three bolts.
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Boy, it seems like this steering issue will never end. So the rack fits great and so does the steering shaft to the colum, but the lower colum bearing was destroyed due to age and IIRC they are NLA, also the steering colum shaft is an early version which means that the bearing that fits the later versions of colums are different. So I had to change the colum shaft to the newer style and lower bearing, which I had. BUT...the quick release steering wheel adapter was welded on by the PO. So I cut it off and then noticed that it was never intended to fit a VW steering shaft. I'm going to nix that whole setup and get an NRG brand quick release system with adapter hub. Heres a link...
http://www.getnrg.com/products/quick-release-kits/short-hub/feed (http://www.getnrg.com/products/quick-release-kits/short-hub/feed).
http://www.getnrg.com/products/quick-release (http://www.getnrg.com/products/quick-release).
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those lower bearings are a real pita, nice to see this coming along, will be great to see it running and driving
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Did you know that sanding round things sucks :-\. It takes forever ;D.
I got a chance to start sanding the frame tubing and firewall. Most of the paint on the tubing was so beat up from rock chips and road debris, just throwing on some paint, it would look like poop. So I'm using 80 grit emery cloth to cut through the chips to metal. I've got some metal etch primer that I'll paint it with first before the flat black paint goes on.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00971-20110623-1938.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00970-20110623-1937.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00969-20110623-1937.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00968-20110623-1937.jpg).
New Hoosier tires are ordered up and should be here by Wed. next week. Uber sticky autocross tires, heat cycled and ready to go for any road race or hill climb event. Still waiting for the other Circle wheel to be built and sent, maybe next week as well. Still need drag slicks too.
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I here ya on sanding the tubing, helped my brother-in-law do 2 sand rails last summer. Took a lot more paint than we expected as well.
I think we got more paint on the shop floor than on the tubing. Also found 2 places we forgot to weld up while we were painting.
I think next time its gonna be paint stripper and a pressure washer.
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Thats what I was thinking, aircraft striper and pwr washer. Oh well, next time ;D. Thanks for the heads up on getting paint on the floor. I think I'll setup some plastic on the floor before.
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That aircraft stripper is wicked stuff. I helped a ag pilot I used to work for strip an old bell 47 helicopter with it.
Worked great till we got down to the original military OD green. Had to sand the green off. Only bad thing about
stripper was any cracks/pinholes or rivets makes it hard to get the stripper out of and leached back out when we painted.
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You just need a Fein Pipe Sander! For a mere price of $2000 haha
http://v1.fein.de/corp/us/en/fein/products/stainless/rs.htm
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I could get you a 3M file belt sander for under 400.00 :D
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31ZIgLLRLuL._SL500_AA300_.jpg)
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I know a meth addict that will do it for $40, you gotta tell him when he's finished though!!! ;D
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I know a meth addict that will do it for $40, you gotta tell him when he's finished though!!! ;D
LMFAO!!! ;D
that was a good one!
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Its been painted and also made a new upper strut tower brace thats removable. I want to give a shout out to my buddy Travis for building the brace. Thanks dude.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00976-20110625-1059.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00982-20110625-1326.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00988-20110626-1438.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00991-20110626-1439.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00996-20110626-1540.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00995-20110626-1539.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG01002-20110626-1651.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG01000-20110626-1650.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG01001-20110626-1651.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG00999-20110626-1628.jpg).
Looks like the colors will contrast great.
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Oh dang that's sexy! This is going to be awesome all bolted up! I might have to make a road trip down to Oregon once it's running :P
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yeah looks like you made room for compound turbos ;D
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Ha ha. Compounds are next time around. I'm really in a rush to finnish this up for any time behind the wheel, but there is still a bit to do. Plus I might be running out of the shop space to work in.
Yeah, come on up for the NW Diesel Nationals this August.
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Spent some time building the fuel cell bracket/mount. Needs finnal welding to chassis.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG01011-20110629-1836.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG01013-20110629-1837.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG01014-20110629-1837.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG01015-20110629-1838.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG01016-20110629-1838.jpg).
Tires are getting mounted and will be deliverd tomorrow :D.
Ordered up a Dyno tune nitrous progressive controller along with a NRG steering wheel hub adapter and quick release steering wheel adapter hub. Those should be here by the end of the week.
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Yeah, parts. Got the steering wheel hub stuff and installed it.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG01022-20110702-1105.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG01023-20110702-1105.jpg).
Also got the nitrous controller. This thing is awsome. Easy to wire up, mutiple optional inputs and outputs and works great.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG01025-20110702-1702.jpg).
Checking RPM with Tach.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG01026-20110702-1702.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG01027-20110702-1702.jpg).
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I think that I will try to use the second nitrous solenoid for pre-turbo spool up. So the first stage will be pre-turbo with a smaller jet controlled by the NOS controller to help light off the turbo and the second stage will be used for high RPM with the bigger .042 jet still with the controller. Lots of testing and tuning. But lots of fun :D.
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I forgot. The wheels and tires. Here ya go.
Before pollishing.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG01017-20110630-1818.jpg).
After.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG01020-20110701-1202.jpg).
One of them mounted.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG01021-20110701-1826.jpg).
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Oh dang that's sexy! This is going to be awesome all bolted up! I might have to make a road trip down to Oregon once it's running :P
i know im going to be making a trip to Portland to see it...
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i know im going to be making a trip to Portland to see it...
Hmmm... it looks like I need to be in Portland July 15-17 and Tacoma July 22-24. I'm thinking of staying down in the states in between. Either way, hopefully I'll be able to stop by!
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Let me know when your in town and we'll GTG.
Small update.
Mounted the tank to chassis. What do you think?
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG01028-20110703-1340.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG01029-20110703-1341.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG01030-20110703-1341.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG01031-20110703-1345.jpg).
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10/joshmarstall/IMG01033-20110703-1346.jpg).
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Also ran out of nitrous last week. Got it refilled today and hooked up the second solenoid with a .016 jet, WOW, it still pulls even harder. The second nozzle is in the same location as before but now operational.
Plus the NOS controller really helps out in tuning and dialing in when and how hard it hits. I really need some H2O/Meth :o.
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Your project looks great. I'm a bit of a noob when it comes to race cars, but will there be an issue with debris from the tire being thrown at the fuel tank? That's how the Concord went down. :(
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Ha ha. I'm sure some will. But it will be mostly rubber from the slicks. As for the hill climbing, I might temporary fasten a screen to help protect it.
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Update.
I've ordered up a Devils Own water injection kit. Its the stage two with a built in 3Bar Map progressive controller.
http://www.alcohol-injection.com/dvc-30-stage-2-305.html (http://www.alcohol-injection.com/dvc-30-stage-2-305.html).
Also, today went out to fiddle with the nitrous controller settings. Lets just say that no matter what I do, it"ll need to be tuned all over again once in the Scirocco. But it still fun. It seems that the lower the boost PSI mixed with NOS the lower the EGTs. Well just for a few seconds, compaired to 30 PSI and NOS the EGTs climb higher. Once the water injection is added, its gonna change everything again.
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Please post a progress update!!! :D
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Yeah, its been a long time for an update. Been working on the marrige :).
Also started a new job so time hasn't been available. But from time to time I go to the shop to get some things squared away. Such as mounting the new seat belts, building and mounting the coolant bottle and redoing the rollbar padding with FIA certified padding.
Still waiting for the H20 injection kit. Hoping it'll be here before the end of July so I can install it and run the truck one last time at Portland International Raceway Bug'in on the 30th.
The plan is to run 5 nozzles. One pre-turbo and the others mounted to each port in the intake manifold. Hopefully mount and use the other nitrous jet pre-turbo as well.
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I picked up a set of ARP 2000 series head studs that I plan to install when the engine comes out along with a new MLS headgasket. May as well have a look see at how the internals are doing.
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I am wondering why you put the fuel cell in front of the right wheel instead of in the back of the car like it was previously? is there reasons for doing this or is it just personal preference? We need to put a fuel cell in a GTI, so any information would be appreciated.
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Good question.
Well for one, this is strickly a race car. So some things are done for reasons of safety some for weight distribusion and others for the lack of room. In this case, I decided to put the fuel cell in front of the car to eliminate routing new fuel lines from the rear. Plus the the stock fuel tank has already been cut out and is just a hole for now. Take a look at some other drag race cars that are FWD and notice their engine bays and locations of their tanks. They're all up front for weight over the engine for tracktion.
So in your case, what do you want to do with your car? Theres nothing really wrong with the stock tank for drag racing, just don't fill it ;D.
I've seen racing fuel cells that can be made to fit in the spare wheel well. Is that what your talking about?
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we a building a "hornet" car, that a class at the local circle track that is four cylinder imports, we are using a mk 2 GTI. One of the requirements is a fuel cell that is separated from the drivers compartment. so we were looking at doing the same thing that the po had done on your car. so I was wondering what you reasons were for moving it. thanks in advance for any info.