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#75
by
RabbitJockey
on 17 Oct, 2012 21:54
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Looks cool man, now where's that head?? Haha. And not to be a butthole but u should get that rod resized it can't be that expensive, I am just weird like that and it bothers me
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#76
by
Hoble
on 17 Oct, 2012 22:10
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notch the strut brace!! haha
actually ive been told one of the fastest cars around my local track is a honda with no sway bars and no strut braces... just lets er swing. just an interesting factoid
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#77
by
theman53
on 18 Oct, 2012 07:00
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I will probably just cut the brace and weld it back a bit. It just hits a fuzz. My measurement was on the tube, but the tube needed capped. So the extra weld and cap is probably about 1/2" and that is about the interferrence I have. Also I had him angle the thing forward maybe a degree or so and if I would have left it at the 10 degree back I wouldn't have this issue. I had thought about bending it, but then I may end up hitting the compressor.
After going to all poly inserts and adding that strut brace this car handles better than most on the road, it is nuts.
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#78
by
TurboJ
on 18 Oct, 2012 07:58
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Just make sure there is room enough also for the engine to move (twist) about. Cutting and re-welding the brace is what I would do.
That intake looks very good and it's nice to see a different design from what I've used to!
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#79
by
theman53
on 18 Oct, 2012 20:26
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Yeah it actually clears the hood very well and has room to move except for that strut brace. I may get another one, or cut and reweld this one. If I cut this one and reweld I may change the angle so that it comes in almost from the bend right where it hits so it will clear by 3" or so. I hope that it will not hit that brace rocking forward as it has several inches to get there. As long as I have good mounts I would think that it will never be an issue, but we will see.
Also if I cut and weld that brace I may make it so it is pinned and I can take it apart in a few seconds. Now as it is it is bolted to the strut towers and one side has to come off to access the vc, cam, or get the turbo out from the back over top.
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#80
by
theman53
on 24 Oct, 2012 19:16
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Well I may only have to heat the brace and beat it to death. I just went out and started cleaning up some of the ports on the intake and mocked it up with the turbo and the turbo didn't fit. It should have cleared by a couple inches. I got out the measurements and the guy shifted the intake a fuzz to the passenger side which made it all off...but the compressor housing didn't hit the #1 tube like it probably would have, but I am not telling him that. I will just take it up tomorrow and let him go to town on it again and see where it ends up now. All he needs to do is cut the plug end off and reweld it about 1/4" closer to the ports.
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#81
by
RabbitJockey
on 25 Oct, 2012 13:48
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What about the head
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#82
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 25 Oct, 2012 13:50
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bring him a head, manifolds, turbo, and tell him to make it fit..
that end of the manifold, just dead heading it, makes for turbulance.. think the guy could use a spherical cap instead of a flat cap next time?
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#83
by
theman53
on 25 Oct, 2012 17:45
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The cylinder head...the last I saw was in Tiffin Ohio, but Dakotakid said he saw it on a milk carton...The machinist said he got the bandsaw fired up and is cutting up the old head. The guy welding the new head has his new house set up and is almost ready to weld, but I still do not have a cylinder head yet.
I did bring him all that to begin with, but some measurements were lacking on my part. I didn't think about a possible slant. I also did not think he was going to put a 1/2" plate on for the end cap. As long as it clears the turbo outlet I am fine. For the free price of welding I cannot complain too much. So with the no cost tig welding and the 20.00 in Aluminum tube and the 30.00 or so in sausage stuffers, all I will have is time and around 50.00 in this.
As far as the turbulance I do not know what will happen. I am just going off the calculations that I have. From what the calculations and the machinist say for forced induction it isn't really going to matter. It is more about the length of the runners and plenum volume. I did blow through it and was completely shocked at how little air was needed to make it to all the ports. But since only one intake valve will be open at a time it should scavenge the air very well. My only goals were to make it better than stock, lower the RPM the torque level is peak, and make sure it holds together. I may not have the best intake but I think I will succeed in my goals.
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#84
by
RabbitJockey
on 25 Oct, 2012 19:26
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I think lowering your peak torque to around 3k is a good plan it should help some what with turbo spool and to some what define your power band. My understanding of it is that the peak torque is where the engine is working the most efficiently ie it is moving the most amount of air and making the most amount of power per combustion keep in mind I said per combustion. Peak hp is where it actually is making the most amount of power with all the combined combustions which is why peak hp is generally at a higher rpm than torque. The torque number isn't really a measurement of power
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#85
by
theman53
on 25 Oct, 2012 20:02
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Yeah Trev0rbr, I think the length of the runners to the head are over 13" if you 3.25" measurement is as good as a twizzler gets. With all the calculating and figuring 4th harmonic it should actually be between 2500 and 3000. The lower the torque the better as that was the only thing lacking in my old 1.6, it just didn't go off the line that well. I guess if I can get a little more grunt faster it will be great. Just because it peaks around there doesn't mean it will be a lightswitch, it should climb rapidly off idle to peak at that point. I will be just fine with that...if the hillbilly calculations are accurate that is.
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#86
by
RabbitJockey
on 25 Oct, 2012 20:34
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I think with ur intake and turbo improvements and the crazy head word u should be in the 500hp region
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#87
by
theman53
on 25 Oct, 2012 20:36
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I almost snotted laughing so hard.
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#88
by
Alcaid
on 26 Oct, 2012 02:15
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Peak torque = when the turbo reaches max boost. To get peak torque earlier install a VNT turbo with vane control
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#89
by
RabbitJockey
on 26 Oct, 2012 08:34
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Peak torque = when the turbo reaches max boost. To get peak torque earlier install a VNT turbo with vane control
i guess i should have mentioned, in terms of a naturally aspirated engine, or one that would be under consistent boost from idle to red line(turbo efficiencys aside) the peak torque would theoretically be around 3000 or where ever he has calculated, but once you throw the boost curve and turbo efficiencies and w/e other factors in im sure the peak torque could be nearly anywhere. I'm really interested in how this thing will run tho with that intake manifold and the 45 trim vw t3 hybrid, especially since we have seen the results from josh's 45 trim .48 powered caddy.