-
Where to find downpipe flanges?
by
Spulen81
on 10 Oct, 2006 18:19
-
I'm putting at TD Garrett turbo on my TDI and need to make a downpipe. Are there square downpipe flanges available anywhere? Finding one already made would save me a ton of time.
-
#1
by
saurkraut
on 10 Oct, 2006 18:29
-
Get a gasket for the flange you want and go to a couple machine shops in your immediate area. Some may be reasonable on price.
-
#2
by
Spulen81
on 10 Oct, 2006 19:37
-
That is true. I was hopeing somebody already made these.
-
#3
by
veeman
on 10 Oct, 2006 23:23
-
-
#4
by
Spulen81
on 11 Oct, 2006 00:36
-
Mine has a square 4 bolt pattern on the turbine housing. Its a T3 but I think the KKK turbo has the same exhaust pattern. I wonder if any of the square ones they have online would fit?
-
#5
by
veeman
on 11 Oct, 2006 00:58
-
You could always try these guys...
http://www.034motorsport.com/product_info.php?products_id=325I know the owners of the company... good guys, mostly into high-powered Audi 5 cyl engines, but they should have the flanges you're looking for. If the one above isn't the right type, do a search for "flange" on that site and see what else they stock.
Do you have a stock downpipe from that turbo that you could use / measure the flange off of?
-
#6
by
935racer
on 11 Oct, 2006 02:27
-
I sell them for $15CAd a piece.
-
#7
by
HarryMann
on 10 Oct, 2006 18:00
-
Can I butt in here please? Along the same lines, sortof...
Manifold to turbo joints...
To gasket or not, not that I can get one anyway!
I have been surface flatting both manifold face and turbo face to quite a high accuracy, as no gasket there originally, and I've tried as best to match the port sections, quite amazed how much these are out. (Garrett T2, joint that the 4 high strength flanged cap screws go through)
Do most just fit these up metal to metal to keep heat transfer even and a simple joint.
Is a thin smear of exhaust cement OK
Or is a gasket recommended and if so, which style, I don't like some I've seen at all.
Think those screws torque up to about 45 ft-lbs?
Thanks
PS. I'd get a flange laser cut from 3/8" minimim steel blanks, make a good template but allow the port to be fractionally undersize fro matching up later.
-
#8
by
Spulen81
on 11 Oct, 2006 05:02
-
You have email. That will difinetly make things easier.
-
#9
by
macsdub
on 11 Oct, 2006 21:06
-
either that,or hack the orig flange from the downpipe to weld on a custom d/p
ive dont that a few times in a pinch
and they are nice+thick
-
#10
by
Spulen81
on 12 Oct, 2006 11:53
-
I thought about that but is it difficult to weld to the cast iron?
-
#11
by
935racer
on 12 Oct, 2006 12:42
-
Welding cast iron is a little more difficult, and it is even harder if you are trying to get to hold under heat and vibration, like a downpipe.
-
#12
by
HarryMann
on 12 Oct, 2006 18:00
-
G. Cast Iron - thin or thick
Weld in the flat position if possible. Out of position will require additional practice. Use JOF neutral flame. Use proper rod and high heat flux. Must preheat metal. Gring crack out. Heat rod and stick in flux. Heat metal and apply rod to molten metal. Penetration of welding rod is controlled by the amount of heat on molten puddle. (longer heating in molten puddle will give more rod penetration). Must postheat all of cast 4-600 degrees and let cool slowly. (Put sand, lime, etc., if possible. If cast rod is used you can drill, tap, or gring weld area.
