Turbo 1.6NA checklist

[BuckyMK2]

Hello all,
I'm getting ready to turbo my 1.6NA and I'd like to run my list of parts + maintenance by the IDI pros!

The car is a 1989 Jetta with mileage somewhere in the low 300k miles range. Original motor and trans. I just tested the oil pressure, got about 20psi at warm idle and 45psi at 2k warm revs. After a very spirited drive, I got 16psi idle and 40psi at 2k revs. I'm going to compression test the motor as well in the coming days. Before I throw the turbo parts on it, I'm planning to do the head gasket (not blown, but who knows the last time it was replaced.) I'm planning on just using a regular gasket and head bolts, as I'm gonna be pretty conservative with the boost setup being that it is an NA motor (no oil squirters, NA head.) Also going to do timing belt and tensioner, and checking the IM shaft/crank seals for oil leaks while I'm in there.

Here's the parts list, all the turbo parts will be coming off of a 91 ecodiesel:
K14 turbo
Exhaust manifold (will be tapping an EGT probe)
Intake manifold (will be tapping a boost gauge)
Oil pan (has bung for oil return line)
Oil filter housing (has hole for oil feed line)
Valve cover (with CCV puck) and cam splash guard if I can get them, or I might try to use an 8v cover and puck - need to research more
2.5 inch downpipe
Oil cooler (aftermarket, bc the 1.6NA doesn't even come with one and the OEM one isn't great from what I've heard)
Going to be using my NA Giles pump and NA injectors
Also will be installing an oil temperature gauge so I can keep an eye on that

I'm not planning on pushing too much more than stock boost, I'll see what my EGTs and oil temps look like and go from there. I'm aware that I'm not going to make much power from this, but the long term plan is to eventually swap in a TD long block, in which case I can use all of these parts. Also turbo noises are fun

What do you think of the setup? Any other maintenance items I should look for while I have the head off? Advice on what to do about the CCV puck? Any other parts I should pull off the TD?

I've been lurking this forum for a while and have gotten lots of good advice, so any insight would be much appreciated!

[ORCoaster]

OK, Bucky,  I see the oil pan and the filter flange but what about the oil feed and drain lines?  If you come off the top of the oil flange and into a cooler then out to the turbo I think that would be desirable.  Cool oil to the turbo.  The diameter of the line can be 3/16 or 1/4 inch inside diameter.  The oil is under pressure at that point.

But on the bottom end, you need to go bigger.  Like a 3/4 fitting to a 5/8 inch diameter line.  Why?  Because you are only draining under the pull of gravity and you shouldn't restrict the flow with a small diameter line.  I run big on the bottom. 

I would measure the amount of protrusion that you have on the pistons before I ordered a new gasket.  Or just get a 1, 2, and 3-notch set and return the ones you don't use. 

Using your NA pump and injectors will mean you will need to turn the fuel up to the pump.  You won't really get the full effect of the boost feeling without a Boost pump adding the extra fuel when the boost comes on.  That doesn't mean it won't help performance, and maybe mileage too, but it won't push you back in the seat like it should.

The oil temp gauge is optional.  But nice to know what temp it is going to the turbo.  Make darn sure you put oil in that top end of the turbo before you fire it up.  I use a syringe and pump 3 to 5 mm of it in there and let it drain out.  It should be oiled before you start spinning it up.

That's all I can think of for now.


 

[BuckyMK2]

Thank you! I'll definitely be doing that for the head gasket, and thank you for the advice on the oil lines.

[BuckyMK2]

Another thing I’m looking to do is fit up some sort of CCV puck system, mostly to prevent runaway. I heard I could use an 8v valve cover, and use the puck setup off of an ABA. Where would I route the hoses in this case?

[fatmobile]

 It sounds like you have done your research.
  I like the ABA puck.
 It has three ports:
     One comes up from the front of the block,
like the old 1.5s got in the recall to stop runaways.
I plumb it into block using the port near the vacuum pump.
     One goes to the intake, there should be a port for it in the hose after the air filter.
   I didn't see an airbox in your list. Or pipe from box to turbo.
The MK2 TD air filter box is one of the hard things to find. I hope your donor has one.
   And the one on the bottom drains liquid oil back into the block.

[BuckyMK2]

I actually did source a 1.6td airbox! I have the intake hose as well. I also sourced a 1.6td CCV puck, which I’m gonna mount to a G60 valve cover (that way I can use the better gasket, and it looks cool.) Can anyone verify if the 1.6td puck will fit up to the G60 valve cover? In effort to keep things as OEM as possible, I think I’m gonna go with the stock oil feed and return lines. My question is, are these the same between K14 and K24? I want to take the oil feed line from a 1.6td with the K24 and run it on my K14. Also, would it be better to spend a little more on an eBay turbo than a used one? I don’t really know the condition of the used ones, apparently they have minimal to no shaft play but they probably haven’t been on a car in years. I’ve heard the eBay ones are fine if you’re not pushing lots of boost. I will be around 10psi, very close to stock.

[fatmobile]

 Oh good, you have the airbox.
Not sure if that puck fits the G60.
 You can use the 2.0 rubber gasket with any of the valve covers.

"Here's the parts list, all the turbo parts will be coming off of a 91 ecodiesel:"
 Why aren't you using the oil feed line and turbo from the '91 eco donor car?
Wondering why you are shopping for another turbo on ebay.
 ...and not sure about the oil feed and drain lines k24 vs k14. K14s are kinda rare, I've never seen one.

[BuckyMK2]

The eco isn’t all the way together, I’m getting the parts from a few different places and piecing together everything I need. I’m going with an eBay turbo, as most of the used ones either have a bit of shaft play or are the same price as the eBay one.

[oblique]

All turbos have play from the factory. Generally speaking, 1.6/aaz shafts hold up quite well if used with relatively stock boost levels. Check also axial play, it should be less than the radial.

I wouldn't trust an ebay turbo in general, but especially not on a hot diesel. The turbos are out there...k24's are fairly easy to find, k14s less so but are better suited to the 1.6. Both have similar wastegate issues...some develop them some dont. If i was to get anything turbo related from ebay it might be a wastegate. You can test my pressuring the little hard line.

[BuckyMK2]

Ok, in that case I might be more patient and look for a solid OEM K14. Can anyone verify that the K24 oil feed line will fit the K14? And will the K24 oil return line also fit?

[oblique]

The supply and drain lines will be close but not necessarily identical because the bodies of the k14 and 24 are different ie the k14 is smaller but Im not sure about the centre section where these connect. I dont have any k24's right now to compare with the k14s I have here to give you a definite answer.

[BuckyMK2]

You got any K14s for sale?

[oblique]

Yes but they are AAZ. The drain flange isca different style...for aaz its a 2 part drain...a shaft that screws in to the housing and a flex section with large banjo that bolts to the back of the block...1.6 goes down to thevpan. For 1.6 I believe its only the ecodiesels that had k14's and Garrett T2's. I don't know how many ecodiesels we got up here in Canada.

[BuckyMK2]

I have a way to get a 1.6td K14 oil return line. Could I run an AAZ K14 on a 1.6 if I used this return line?

[oblique]

Sorry for the late reply. 1.6 and AAZ returns are completely different.

Im terms of oil supply, you can see the body of the k24 is larger and comes in at a different angle so that would likely have to be a custom braided line.