Engine Specific Info and Questions > mTDI Mechanical TDI Conversions
300 tdi landrover pump on an ALH TDI engine
libbydiesel:
That all looks good to me.
fatmobile:
I got some more done with the pump.
For the rear mounting bracket I went with one from a MK1:
There are holes in the metal high pressure head that are supposed to support the bracket.
The Land Rover pump had them in a different spot so the TDI bracket had little support.
The MK1 bracket didn't line up with the right holes either so I drilled them into the bracket.
Where the 2 allen bolts are.
To drill the right spot I screwed the pointy bolt into the hole and bolted the bracket on,..
then tapped it with a hammer to use it like a center punch.
To make the pointy bolt I put a bolt in the drill press and held a grinder up to it while it was spinning,..
then filed a couple flat spots so I could grip it.
I took some other pictures but they aren't showing up on the SD card.
So I'll just explain what I did on the other end.
First off the shaft locking bolt is 10M1 thread and needs to have at least 1 3/8" of threads.
I made a bushing to fill the alignment pin hole,
instead of grinding the hub slot to fit the pin.
I found a piece of about 3/8" aluminum rod and drilled the center to 15/64" on my cheesy 1945 altas lathe.
It seemed cleaner but I ended up having to grind the hub slot too.
Because the alignment pin hole on the TDI is up higher
so I had to grind the slot deeper to match the LR pump hole.
I locked the shaft at 1.4mm,.. my dial gauge isn't metric so I used .055".
Then cleaned and degreased the hub center and shaft before sticking them together with a nut.
Where that pin hole is on the LR pump also stands out farther
so the 3 TDI sprocket mounting bolts hit the pump.
I broke out the bolt shortener but probably could have removed some from the pump.
Only talking about 1/8".
The TDI pump is bolted on from the timing belt side.
So it's threaded.
The LR pump isn't tapped.
I installed 8M1.25 helicoils.
The hole was almost too big to use a helicoil but I think it will work.
On the top of the pump I used the LR accel lever and spring setup.
I think the LR pump uses the tall bushing like the MK2.
So I think the MK2 accel lever and spring setup would work but I didn't have one to try.
The ball the MK1 and MK2 accel cable snaps to fits the LR lever with a little drilling.
But I might still weld a piece of early adjustable bracket to the end.
Having the cable attach farther from the center
means small movement of the foot moves the lever less.
Might not be as sensitive to movement.
fatmobile:
Since the pin sits lower I had to mill out a little from the sprocket slot
so the pin could be inserted with the sprocket on.
The timing belt and transmission are on.
libbydiesel:
I used a 1.6 rear pump plate on my ALH mTDI (LR pump). I drilled the extra holes also, but I think they probably aren't even necessary. The 2 corner bolts and the mount bolt triangulate the plate nicely without the added allen bolts.
I ground the pump case to prevent the stock sprocket bolts from hitting it.
I tapped the 3 LR pump mounting holes to M10. The M10 bolts fit fine through the timing belt backing plate and the accessory bracket.
It wouldn't be a bad thing to get a new serp belt tensioner. I didn't replace the one on my mTDI ALH and it seized, shredded the belt and lots of belt pieces got wrapped around the crank.
fatmobile:
I'll check the price of a new tensioner,..
or see if Bill changed that when he did the timing belt.
Was that 10 M 1 you tapped the pump mounting holes?
Or something courser?
I'm going to have to get new sprocket bolts anyway.
So I might cut the pump down for clearance now and in the future.
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