Engine Specific Info and Questions > mTDI Mechanical TDI Conversions
300 tdi landrover pump on an ALH TDI engine
fatmobile:
I'm working on the MTDI MK2 project.
It's time to play with the pump.
There's a lever on the pump that I haven't seen on any others.
After reading the MTDI FAQ thread it looks like it's not needed.
But it doesn't say how to get rid of it.
It does get in the way of the accelerator cable and generally clutters the place up.
Should I just pull it out and cut the lever off the inside and trim down the lever on the outside?
On the old 1.6 pumps I always had to cut the nubs off the lid gasket
but the slots are wider on the landrover pump and it fit nice with the nubs.
I also need to swap the hub from the TDI to this pump.
But as you can see the TDI hub has a small slot for the alignment pin to go into,
and the landrover pump has a large slot and uses a larger alignment pin.
I'm thinking i will just make the TDI hub slot as large as the landrover slot.
Is there a better plan?
Also wondering where to set this slot on the rover pump?
Use a dial gauge to set it to 154?
I'd like to use a MK2 accelerator arm and springs.
Has that been tried?
libbydiesel:
To remove that extra lever, I have removed it, tapped the hole to NPT and threaded in an allen plug. What you propose would also work. That extra lever (if all is adjusted correctly) will reduce the puff of smoke at startup. That is all that it does.
If you want to be precise with the hub, then you could either cut the VW hub to match the larger hole or put a small bushing into the hole so it matches the VW hub. To install the hub, make sure the shaft keyway is aligned with the delivery valve for the #1 injector, make sure the dial indicator is rising as you turn CW, and when you arrive at the dial indicator setting you desire, lock the pump shaft with the side bolt. With the shaft locked, install the hub with the pin in place and tighten the hub nut. Whenever the pin fits should then equal the dial indicator reading you used previously. I think 1.40mm is a good baseline timing spec for the LR pump. You might want to adjust from there, though. Set to 12° BTDC at idle with the pulse adapter.
fatmobile:
I hadn't thought about plugging that hole with an NPT plug.
And filling the pin alignment hole in the front of the pump.
That might be easier than making the slot precisely bigger.
So take the dial indicator to it's lowest spot going counter clockwise.
Just like when it's on the car I'd push the car backwards until the dial gauge hits it's lowest spot.
Then turn it clockwise until it reaches 1.4mm.
Lock it in place with the allen head bolt on the side of the pump near the mainshaft:
Obvious, even through all that dirt.
After that the bolts on the sprocket get used for fine tuning?
I made a 12° BTDC mark on the flywheel.
Soooo use the short accelerator arm that came with it?
Or see if I can swap to the MK2 cable bracket and lever?
Thanks Andrew.
You went through some of this with me awhile ago.
libbydiesel:
Yup, you've got all the main points. Just to reiterate, you need the shaft keyway pointing toward the #1 delivery valve when you're doing the process. From there you can rotate CCW to zero the gauge. I think you'll need a longer bolt with the same pitch to lock the shaft. Yup, fine timing is done by adjusting the alignment between the sprocket and the hub.
fatmobile:
Oh, so that allen head bolt gets pulled and a longer bolt gets used to lock the shaft.
I didn't get a chance to look at that today.
I got rid of the extra lever.
I tried to push it inward, take it out, and cut it.
But it runs into the LDA arm,..
as you can see in the first picture of this thread.
So I cut off the outside end with a cutoff wheel
which made it short enough.
Then cleaned up the edge and shoved it through.
The hole was almost too big to tap to 1/8" NPT but I think it will seal.
With that out of the way I should be able to use the 1.6 accelerator cable bracket.
The whiteish paint shows what needs removed.
You can see the hole plugged below it.
I also got a chance to do the governor mod.
The MTDI FAQ thread suggested it works great with this pump.
But didn't really tell what kind of governor mod they did.
Here's how I do them:
The spring gets removed and replaced by (in this case) 2 washers.
I tried one shim and there was some slop,
the spring wasn't under pressure.
Left to do are:
find hub swap bushing size.
Swap the TDI delivery valves to this pump.
Figure out best accelerator lever to use.
Set the hub on the mainshaft at 1.4mm.
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
Go to full version