but if I were to change the thermostat, would a lower temp thermostat and lower temp fan switch be a good idea? someone said they were supposed to match up or something??
I changed out my t-stat and rad fan switch to lower temp versions. I did it because I have warped too many cylinder heads from overheating. You will see a reduction in fuel economy, but that's a hit I'm willing to take.My thermostat is 169*F and my rad fan switch is 186*F. I think. Memory not too good. Anyway, my gauge never makes it to halfway.
The above numbers come from Autozone but I got all my stuff at Bow-wow, if that helps.
Eh??canadian up here eh.... we aint got no aw-toe-zone
QuoteEh??canadian up here eh.... we aint got no aw-toe-zone Lol. Well, the good news is you should be able to find a Bow-wow since I know they have a Canadian website.
I wouldn't really trust the thermostats myself, unless it was brand new.
By the way, the pot of water on the stove test showed that each of the 195 degree thermostats was opening within 10 degrees of the rating, so I can't really explain why I was having all the problems.
Interesting. If your thermostat is totally closed, then that should never happen because water never flows through the radiator. Unless the little hole in the t-stat that prevents airlock is letting cold coolant through. Or there is enough heat transfer from the air going past the radiator to cool the bypass hose and the head itself.
-30C at 100kph equals to about -60C with wind factor
Quote -30C at 100kph equals to about -60C with wind factor Wind chill describes the temperature a person will sense at a given speed/temp. Its the sensation of heat loss and is related to moisture evaporting from your skin. To your radiator, -30C at 100kph equals -30C, unless your radiator is wet on the outside.
Well the wind chill for -30C @ 100kph is -54C.regardless of whether or not your radiator can 'sweat', 100kph wind is still going to cool it faster than as if it were parked.
