If the carb was draw-through (which means carb, then turbo, then intercooler) the fuel could condense and pool up in the intercooler
um ive been running this basic setup for like 2 maybe almost 3 years now,somethin like thatmy ol garrett compressor side looked fine,no erosion or anythingdo ya have an old carburetor laying around from anything?even a lawnmower? so you can steal some jets i think the orig jet i used was like an .050 holedid you see my new"jet"?you could hook it to a psi switch,or wot switch,or a combo of bothbut i just have a button taped to the shifter knobi activate it almost any time i floor it,or my boost is over 5-10 psiive held it on as long as ive had my foot to the floor,i dont think ive floored it for more than 20 seconds though(um 14.1-2-3 seconds in 1/4,doing 95+)i dunno if id want it hooked up to just a wot switch,cause you can wot and not have boosti sorta like tha manual button i goti made the wires loong,so i can untape it from the shifter,and retape it to the steering wheel for the drags,its a pita to hit the button and shift,i learned fast at the dragsyou sound like a perfect candidate for my setup(starving student)mines free if ya got stuff in the garage,or real cheapa carb jet,some tubing,an a2 washer bottle,and washer fluid+you are therescrew paying 300 bucks,so it"atomizes more finely"you dont even need a carb jet really,solder a piece of(guage tubing) 1/8 inch copper tube shut+drill a small hole+make it larger until its what you needactually,i got vw return line hooked to that 1/8 copper,then another piece of rubber,then into my new jetthe new jet"flows the same" as before,because i think the copper tubing is the restrictionmine doubles in value when i fill the washer bottle with blue stuff for a buckpretty hard for water to get flung to the sides,when its being drawn in anywaysi "tested" the hydrolock capabilities one night,i was doin like 60 in top gear,like 5 psi,,well the engine started missing after like 10 seconds of holding on the button steady,so its pretty safeeven if it isnt an efficient setup,washer fluid is a dollar,it wont break the bank,so what if you even use 2x as much to get the same power as a "kit"?i romp it hard,and i do 400 miles each week just for work alone ,and i use like 2/3 maybe 3/4(severe beating) of a gallon a weekthen ive driven 500 miles to ny,and barely used it, its all hiwayi heard somewhere that an "average" is like 1 gallon every 1000 miles i dunnohope this post isnt too run on,and is readable,lol
i heard running water injection before an intercooler is bad? supposed to build up in the bottom or something...does the water injection work good enough to run no intercooler hillfolk'r? or are you also using an intercooler?
I wonder if the % alcohol in the blue washer fluid would erode aluminum... something to think about...hillfolk' has the right idea about only spraying with boost, and at WOT. he keeps his setup real simple that way. Only problem is if the driver screws up and sprays without boost...For an atomizing jet, why not get one of those lawn sprinkler tips? the ones that have the special misting nozzles. I think they would do a great job pre-turbo and not really have to worry about damaging pressures.
2. The combustion of water provides for more power on the power stroke.
heres a thought. the vacuum pump essentially wastes air that it pumps from the system at a good pressure. why not hook up the vacuum pump outlet to an air tank and fill it with 75% water. then use the pressure in the tank to mist water into the intake.
How do you figure the energy required to *break up water into H2 and O2, then combust it (reforming it) actually provides any power when it should be zero net energy, or is even present on a large scale? From what I've gathered the increase in power comes from the increase in thermal efficiency, i.e. the water sucks up some of the extra heat from combustion that would otherwise be soaked up by the block (this is also why EGTs drop) and does work by expanding when it transitions from fluid to vapor.*not that it doesn't happen for any H2O molecules, just that it doesn't happen for the large majority iirc.
Quote from: Master ACiDheres a thought. the vacuum pump essentially wastes air that it pumps from the system at a good pressure. why not hook up the vacuum pump outlet to an air tank and fill it with 75% water. then use the pressure in the tank to mist water into the intake.Almost a great Idea... :wink: But it would be like putting your thumb over the vac pump outlet and blocking it IMO
The kit i boughthttp://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=8075635867&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AITkit:150psi pump:i ordered a extra nozle (wich is +15usd), i got a 300cc an 600cc nozle:you realy better buy a solonoid, this is my checkvalve:the checkvalve go open activated by boost with this boost sensorThe pump pressure is adjustable, the boost sensor is also adjustable, so you can choose at wich boost you let open the checkvalve.i can not test this so fast :cry: my engine is STILL not realy installed, its very much custom works wich cost time, i hope i can get 150hp in augustGreetz, Benjamin