Author Topic: Switching to synthetic at 470K (Read 7005 times)

tmaybee · « **on:** April 17, 2006, 10:13:04 am »

I am going to switch my car to Mobil Delvac 1. I have been using Rotella and Lucas previously. The car has 470K on it.

I was going to change the oil pump, thrust bearings (while it's accessible) and install a windage tray. All of the seals were changed with the clutch and lifters.

Is there anything else I need to do?

Thanks,
Trevor

BlackTieTD · « **Reply #1 on:** April 17, 2006, 10:14:16 am »

yea, the filter!

:lol:
sounds like you've got it under control. the delvac 1 is a nice oil.

steve · « **Reply #2 on:** April 17, 2006, 12:49:32 pm »

I don't think you need to do any thing special to go to synthetic, do you? my engine has 100K on it and I just decided to go synthetic only because it starts so much better with it than with dyno sludge.

hillfolk'r · « **Reply #3 on:** April 17, 2006, 03:56:37 pm »

Quote from: "steve"

I don't think you need to do any thing special to go to synthetic, do you? my engine has 100K on it and I just decided to go synthetic only because it starts so much better with it than with dyno sludge.

,nah its an old wifes tale about synthetic makin seals leak,,,,,,,,,ive never seen that happen personally,,and i been doin this a while(wrenchin 4 a livin')

stewardc · « **Reply #4 on:** April 18, 2006, 03:25:49 am »

Quote from: "hillfolk'r"

nah its an old wifes tale about synthetic makin seals leak,,,,,,,,,ive never seen that happen personally,,and i been doin this a while(wrenchin 4 a livin')

I'll have to disagree here. I almost ruined 2 engines by doing it. A 1978 Dodge 318 V8 and a 1.6 TD in a 1991 Jetta. Both were changed over at about 100,000km (60,000 miles). No leaks before and they both leaked like seives after. The rear main seal was the worst on both engines and had to be replaced.

steve · « **Reply #5 on:** April 18, 2006, 04:54:46 am »

I heard that was a problem when synthetics first came out into mainstream use... (30 years ago?) But since then I heard that they fixed the compatiblity problem. Everything I've read recently says that you don't need to worry about it. Interesting... I guess I'd go for a wait and see approach. Unless the engine is already being worked on and it's handy to do now.

91 ECO · « **Reply #6 on:** April 18, 2006, 06:59:55 am »

I run synthetic in everything except the Jetta. I switched my wife's Explorer to synthetic at 80,000 miles and my Impala SS at 100,000 miles with no problems. When I put synthetic in the Jetta at 270,000 miles, she started leaking pretty good. So I'm sticking with dyno until rebuild time. Just my .02.

BlackTieTD · « **Reply #7 on:** April 18, 2006, 07:30:47 am »

any existing sealing issues would be magnified when using a synthetic vs. dyno. if you're engine is sealed up tight, no worries... but as in the case of the above poster, synth could make an existing problem more apparent.

steve · « **Reply #8 on:** April 18, 2006, 07:43:07 am »

mine leaves droppings with either one...

RabbitJockey · « **Reply #9 on:** April 18, 2006, 09:42:50 am »

i switched to synthetic in my 185,000 mile jetta and all it did was make it run better and start easier in the cold, now i don't wanna use anything other than synthetic.

jtanguay · « **Reply #10 on:** April 18, 2006, 10:25:56 am »

dino comes in 15w40 right. and your synthetic comes in 0w40 and 5w40. Once the oil is warmed up it should be fine. Cold starts are easier because the oil is thinner when cold (main reason why it would leak)

new engines that have less clearances and call for thinner oils like 0w30/5w30 or even 0w40 or 5w40 wouldn't leak as they are designed for it.

If you could find a full synthetic 15w40 then your oil leaking issues would be gone. I noticed my engine didn't burn any oil at all after switching to synth, but did leave a few spots on the driveway after a real cold start.

RabbitJockey · « **Reply #11 on:** April 18, 2006, 11:22:19 am »

yeah that's another thing i thought too, because what ever weight the oil is rated at, is true, whether it's sythetic or its dino. cause when i told people i was switching they kinda took a step back and looked at me funny, but my motor didn't have any external leaks, it does seem to burn it a little quicker, now but still not burning it fast enough to really feel a need to throw rings in it.

tmaybee · « **Reply #12 on:** April 18, 2006, 12:34:41 pm »

I forgot to ask previously,

Should I have an engine flush done before I change the oil?

jtanguay · « **Reply #13 on:** April 18, 2006, 01:45:22 pm »

Quote from: "tmaybee"

I forgot to ask previously,

Should I have an engine flush done before I change the oil?

if you have a TD, some would say not to do it, as you may unclog particles that could get trapped somewhere else such as turbo bearings, turbo lines etc.

instead of a flush, i would just recommend driving on the highway for a good 30 mins, then go home and a get the hot oil out right away.

anyone else have anything to say about engine flushes?

BlackTieTD · « **Reply #14 on:** April 18, 2006, 01:47:33 pm »

i would have said exactly what you said... so +1 to that.

Author Topic: Switching to synthetic at 470K (Read 7005 times)

stewardc

91 ECO