1.6TD - sludge all over rear engine bay! - page 1 - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• 1.6TD - sludge all over rear engine bay! by oblique on 03 Jul, 2016 10:13
• Friday I went in to change the pedal bracket (curse that thing) and also changed the fuel filter, priming it with diesel purge.
  
  Everything was fine - the engine sang happily and my clutch action was a treat.
  
  Yesterday I smelled more grease than Im used to and opened the hood to find this:
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
• #1 by ORCoaster on 03 Jul, 2016 11:12
• It almost looks like someone undercoated the top of the engine.  Hoses and all.  Do you still have oil and coolant in your engine?  Did you drive through something and get it up under the engine?  Still have a solid connecting oil line from turbo to oil pan.   
  
  That will be interesting to source out.  I have never seen anything like that short of someone actually spraying that way. 
  
  Is it oil?, Water based? 
  
• #2 by libbydiesel on 03 Jul, 2016 12:10
• CV boot torn?
• #3 by ORCoaster on 03 Jul, 2016 16:51
• Can you imagine what the road looks like all the while the grease was being thrown out like that?  That is the scary part of driving on the rain here just as it starts to come down.  All that oil in the lane where your front tires are.  Could be a trick to stop in time if need be.
  
  It does sort of look like CV grease now that you mention that. 
  
• #4 by oblique on 03 Jul, 2016 20:12
• Grease has thick consistency and is clearish-blue with what looks like black residue suspended in places. Back of motor is slick as well.
  
  How hard is inner CV boot DIY? Never done one. I dont have access to a hoist or anything like that but I do most everything on my cars, motorcycles, mopeds and bicycles myself
• #5 by ORCoaster on 03 Jul, 2016 20:56
• If you don't have the Bentley you might find some U-tuber vids on how it is done.  Most of them I have done were not difficult unless you couldn't get the axle out of the car.  Breaking that nut free on the outside of the front wheel has some pretty good torque on it.  I have used a cheater bar of 6 foot and at other times I have secured the breaker bar to the ground and hit the starter.  I always presoak the nut for days with a penetrating oil of some sort. 
  
  
• #6 by westcoaster on 03 Jul, 2016 21:42
• No Hoist? No Problem!
  
  
  
  
  
  Although, after my fine example of a cam lock, someone may think I'm serious.....
• #7 by mtrans on 04 Jul, 2016 00:55
• I will cut + line from acu it tach motor and plastic will go fast,or put some protection.
• #8 by oblique on 04 Jul, 2016 08:07
• I do have a snap-on cordless impact with which Ive broken hub nuts and crank pulley nuts so that should be ok.
  
  I have no reason to think that the boots are not original from '84 - if the axles have not been touched am I going to curse trying to free them? Also how do I check if the joints themselves need replacing. I understand preventative maintenance but do not want to replace anything that is still within spec.
• #9 by libbydiesel on 04 Jul, 2016 08:24
• Quote from: westcoaster on 03 Jul, 2016 21:42

  No Hoist? No Problem!
  
  
  
  
  
  Although, after my fine example of a cam lock, someone may think I'm serious.....
  

  
  That method works especially well when you're welding on the gas tank like the guy in the pic.  The main benefit is the elimination of substandard genetic material and so it is especially recommended for anyone who thinks it is a good idea but has not yet reproduced.   
• #10 by air-cooled or diesel on 04 Jul, 2016 15:20
• Quote from: oblique on 04 Jul, 2016 08:07

  I do have a snap-on cordless impact with which Ive broken hub nuts and crank pulley nuts so that should be ok.
  
  I have no reason to think that the boots are not original from '84 - if the axles have not been touched am I going to curse trying to free them? Also how do I check if the joints themselves need replacing.
  

  i doubt a cordless will do the axle nuts, but as its a snap-on im rooting for you(and the tool). dont use cordless for final torque, like the guys say, i use a breaker bar, 3/4" with a pipe. adjust torque 'feel' by length of pipe. you need the axle socket, and (what is it) 12 pt socket for inner cv. (i luv my snap-on). 1 thing before starting, when you loosen the outer axle nut(s), DoNot move the car, until you either (as the manual says) have a dumby outter cv in and snug (i think its atleast 40ftlbs), or new axle installed and axle nut tightened.(200ftlbs(??)). you need to put car on stands, and a 2nd person, theres where the wifey comes in good. she can be in the car, put it in gear and step on the brakes. (oh yea 1 more thing, if you have the tires off put 2 wheel bolts in (also so you dont lose the disk screws,,too). you can now get to the inner cv bolts(12pt me thinks). get an extension and 1 at a time you can rotate jacked up tire(on stands), loosen inners, leave two in (screws)(loose), at this point if the outer nut is off, /the right side, for mk2 and possibly mk1, turn steering to the right and inner can now come loose(any axle your going to use again, DoNot let hang!), you may not have to turn steering for pass(right) side. push axle toward outside, then inner cv/axle should be able to clear the trans and you can slide out. the drivers on mk2s can be a trick, on mk1s you may be able to turn steering to left(iirc) and axle/inner cv should clear trans, you can now slide out. on mk2s the trick is,, not to loosen anything-/-change aligment. so you take out upper ball joint slide-thru bolt, get a pry bar and take a-arm out of hub. install isnt too difficult, get ball joint to join back up with hub. the only other prob with this is getting the right combo of socket, extension, X2(for both sides), or a wrench to fit in, iirc the mk3 is a b*ch to get to like this. i have a few axles for napa, good price, work well, have good mileage on them, no probs. i donno did i miss anything??
  i doubt those axles are original, and the blue grease makes me think they are/were still good. depending how long they have been spewing grease. could be napa axles. check for anything that ripped your boot(s).
• #11 by air-cooled or diesel on 04 Jul, 2016 15:49
• 1more thing. before you jack up. make sure outer axle nuts are loose, and after you 'jack-down' final tighten nuts. if on jacks you do this, you may find you end up picking the other side up, not to say a jack point can also collapse doing this, as well as worse.
• #12 by ORCoaster on 04 Jul, 2016 17:30
• Libby,  In the genetics world they call the elimination of some traits within an individual, selection pressure.  I had to laugh seeing that picture.  One quick bump or lean on that 4x4 and the pressure would be on this individual.  How do people think that stuff up? 
  
  I always crack the nuts loose with the car still on the ground using the cheater pipe, and I do mean stout pipe, something 2 inches in diameter.  Electric Snap-on tool???   You can try but my guess is not going to work.  But then some folks have all the luck.
  
  
• #13 by oblique on 06 Jul, 2016 11:38
• yea its SnapOn CT7850. Has 450ft-lb of undoing force with every strike. Its loud as hell and the stubborn nuts take a minute or more of impacting but they break loose eventually. All mechs I know have the Ingersoll-Rand one which has something like 700ft-lb breaking force. Theres nothing on passenger cars it hasnt loosened, apparently.
• #14 by air-cooled or diesel on 06 Jul, 2016 12:16
• Quote from: air-cooled or diesel on 04 Jul, 2016 15:20

  dont use cordless for final torque