EGT question

[Jo3kr]

Can't find much on Google or the site and I imagine it couldn't hurt to run another thread.

So anyways my freshly rebuilt 1.6td is finally running and today I was pulling a mountain and looked at my EGTs and seen 1400F I backed off at that point.

Is that temp safe? I got a Garrett T3 on it and the motor has some performance goodies to handle boost but I'm only pushing 10psi now.

What would you recommend to keep my egts under and how much boost can I have safely now until I get my water meth injection. I'm not intercooled atm.




Pic for some TD love and where my EGT probe is located.


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[libbydiesel]

I used to run hotter without issue, but keep it to 1250°F at this point. 

Is this a current picture or when you were still assembling it?  You need to install the anti-vibration clips on your metal lines or they will break from the vibration.  You're missing the corner nut on the valve cover and the timing belt bolt/washer.  Hopefully none of the hardware is waiting to fall into your timing belt.  You're dipstick looks wonky.  There's a fair amount of the pump sprocket showing and none of the belt.  Is your timing belt is tracking correctly?  Your alternator top bolt has backed out a bit.  Is the fat red wire hanging down to the right of the oil filter live?  The braided stainless oil supply line should get zip-tied at minimum.  If it is allowed to vibrate long term it will act like a saw and cut through hoses, wires, etc.  Your strut top bearing nut is about to fall off.  What's with the wire grounded to the valve cover stud? 

[Jo3kr]

I used to run hotter without issue, but keep it to 1250°F at this point. 

Is this a current picture or when you were still assembling it?  You need to install the anti-vibration clips on your metal lines or they will break from the vibration.  You're missing the corner nut on the valve cover and the timing belt bolt/washer.  Hopefully none of the hardware is waiting to fall into your timing belt.  You're dipstick looks wonky.  There's a fair amount of the pump sprocket showing and none of the belt.  Is your timing belt is tracking correctly?  Your alternator top bolt has backed out a bit.  Is the fat red wire hanging down to the right of the oil filter live?  The braided stainless oil supply line should get zip-tied at minimum.  If it is allowed to vibrate long term it will act like a saw and cut through hoses, wires, etc.  Your strut top bearing nut is about to fall off.  What's with the wire grounded to the valve cover stud?

Haha yeah was still assembling when this pic was taken.

Thanks a lot for your advice there a lot of it needs cleaned up I know but compared to what it used to be I'm gaining progress!

The timing belt seems to be tracking properly my brother who's an expert at these didn't see anything wrong and we got it to track better then it used to.

The wire grounded out is us trying to figure out why the temp gauge isn't working on the cluster. And when we grounded this one out it got rid of my oil light on the cluster I'll eventually clean that up. And that wire is no longer live just haven't decided I wanted to chop it off yet or not it is the other end of the glow plug setup from the factory not the hot end but the other end on the fuse block it went to.

Thanks about the metal injector lines and turbo feed line very useful advice there!

And you say to keep it to 1250F is that cause I'm still at a break in point or are you saying to wait til I go water meth?


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[Jo3kr]

Here's a pic when we first got it running and the heck of a mess it was then.


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[libbydiesel]

Yes, it does look better.

The belt tracking in that pic is terrible.  The belt should track in the middle of the sprocket.  If it tracks off the edge, it must be corrected or the belt will wear out very quickly on the lip on the tensioner and int pulley.

To get it to track closer to the block the sprocket side of the pump must go DOWN and the injection line side must go UP.  The mounting holes for the pump bracket are oversize to allow adjustment.  Pull the pump, loosen the two bolts behind the pump that hold the bracket to the block and the two that bolt the two parts of the pump bracket together.  Push the bracket behind the injection pump UP and bolt it down.  Reinstall the pump and see where it tracks.  If it still needs to go closer to the engine, pull the pump again, loosen the bolts that hold the two bracket parts together, loosen all the fasteners that mount the flat bracket part to the end of the block, jack up the engine, push down on that end bracket part by the injection pump and bolt it down.

[theman53]

I also think you could benefit from the stock air box instead of the hot air intake. Or make a box around your hot air intake and make it a cold air intake

[Jo3kr]

Well guys thanks a lot for your help. Once again proves how amazing this site is.

I tore the covers off and checked the timing belt and it is indeed tracking horribly then I figured well I mise well check and see why the crank pulley is wobbling. All along I been figuring it was cause the pulley was bent and didn't see any noticeable signs otherwise until I took the pulley off today and the crank sprocket ITSELF is wobbling.

Gonna tear her back apart and find out what she needs. I'm almost certain this is why it's not tracking properly as well cause when I fired it up I hurried and shut it off after noticing the crank wobble cause the timing belt was about to fly off the crank due to the wobble!!

I'm so grateful I caught this before disaster happened that's for sure.



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[libbydiesel]

The sprocket will sometimes wobble a little even when everything is ok, but wobbling will also often indicate that the crank/sprocket interface is failing.  Definitely good to take a look.  You'll probably want to make/source a crank holder for easy removal and torquing of the crank bolt. 

[Jo3kr]

Found this! Can't be good correct? At least half of the tooth is missing otherwise the gear seems to be OK but I'm replacing it and the bolt itself. Mise well throw a new timing belt and everything on it as well.



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[vanbcguy]

I'd say you got lucky. Once you remove the sprocket inspect the crank nose well, hopefully it's not damaged.

[Jo3kr]

I'd say you got lucky. Once you remove the sprocket inspect the crank nose well, hopefully it's not damaged.

Yep it's a shame since I love the car so much and it's so fun and have to yet again park it but I'm so glad I caught it before disaster happened.

I'll remove the sprocket tomorrow I'm really anxious and worried to see what I uncover.



Until then I'll miss driving this thing! Lol


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[zuhandenheit]

I'm really confused about that crank sprocket! You say the motor was just rebuilt - but the crank . . . wasn't removed? Did the motor just get some new gaskets or something?

Also, I'm having trouble imagining what could cause that kind of damage!

[Jo3kr]

I'm really confused about that crank sprocket! You say the motor was just rebuilt - but the crank . . . wasn't removed? Did the motor just get some new gaskets or something?

Also, I'm having trouble imagining what could cause that kind of damage!

Yeah the crank was removed the motor was a complete tear down. I believe we threw an old sprocket on and didn't replace that one.

I forgot to mention 400 miles into the rebuild the timing skipped and smashed the valve caps into the cam and wrecked the head. So I'm guessing the damage came from that. The block was perfectly fine the head itself though; junk. So I got a new one had it rebuilt and slapped it on.

I guess you can say this motor has been a hell of a money pit and nothing but trouble lol. But a hell of a learning experience though!

Good news is she's running again with no wobble


Victory photo!


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