You should just be able to replace the seal without the entire housing no? I'd do it depending on the mileage just for peace of mind.
I used aftermarket last time with no problems so far... I put in the type with the carrier and gooped the bottom at the oil pan after a good cleaning/degreasing. (did not change the oil pan gasket).
i don't mess with them unless they are leaking. i had a bad experience once where i got 2 bad rear main seals so i had my transmission in and out 3 times. so now if its not leaking i leave it alone.
Just the seal or seal and carrier,... both need the "sour cream" container slid over the crank so the lip doesn't snag on the crank and flip.If installing just the seal; it has to be parallel to the crank. Not just lined-up with the seal carrier edge.Look at how it sits in the carrier before you remove it. You'll see it. I use an old pressure plate and some spacers: a spacer washer from a dasher alternator pully sits flat with the end of the crank. I cut a washer the size of the seal and it sets the seal square with the crank.
1) It is usually not a good idea to mess with any seal that is hard to get at without a good reason. A good reason might be that it is already leaking or the motor was severely overheated.2) Cheap vinyl (black) seals are crap and wear out fast even if prelubed. W/O prelube service life can be weeks. Avoid them like the plague. ALWAYS use a Viton (red) seal if there is one available.3) ALWAYS prelube the seal lip with a light coat of grease. This keeps it from wearing out very fast. Many OEM factory rear seals come pre-greased when you buy them. Eventually oil will lube the seal so that dry rubber is not running on hot dry steel, but by then the seal is damaged and will have a short service life. Install the outside DRY, if it will go in that way. NEVER put oil, grease, or any kind of sealer on the outside of the seal as this may cause it to pop out from a very small amount of crankcase pressure. If you need a lubricant to get a tacky Viton seal in its bore use a little brake cleaner or the like. Something that will evaporate and let the seals tacky outside hold it in position later. If you just have to use RTV see 3a.3a) RTV is a lifesaver and a curse rolled into one. If you are going to use it on the outside of the seal, make sure that is COMPLETELY cured before running the motor or getting oil on it. That means at least 24 hours. Oil on uncured RTV makes it turn to Jello and never set up. Always use RTV labeled "OEM". This stuff is what the factories use and it is MUCH better than anything with a label like "Super Blue" or "High Temp". Buy it at the Ford or GM store if you have to.4) Protect the inner lip if there is any chance of it being cut during installation. Usually any shaft that has a lip seal on it will have some kind of bevel on it to prevent seal damage on installation. Always check and make sure nothing damages the lip. Lip damage is much more likely if the seal is dry rather than prelubed.5) Seal drivers are best, but they can be started with your fingers, if you are strong, and then seated with soft taps from a LIGHT hammer. This takes a deft touch, so if you are a ham fisted goon, use a seal driver.
Quote from: fatmobile on June 27, 2015, 10:08:09 pmJust the seal or seal and carrier,... both need the "sour cream" container slid over the crank so the lip doesn't snag on the crank and flip.If installing just the seal; it has to be parallel to the crank. Not just lined-up with the seal carrier edge.Look at how it sits in the carrier before you remove it. You'll see it. I use an old pressure plate and some spacers: a spacer washer from a dasher alternator pully sits flat with the end of the crank. I cut a washer the size of the seal and it sets the seal square with the crank. What about installing a seal/carrier assembly? Is the seal guaranteed to be parallel to the crank? Or do you have to make it parallel with the contraption you have devised?
