Doing clutch on 92 Jetta & have questionsrr - page 3 - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• #30 by TylerDurden on 19 Jun, 2015 12:45
• I'm not in a hurry to buy, and interested in a better diy solution.
  
  The jack(s) from below is simple and time tested... (and I have about a dozen of those scissor jacks to use), but that method will almost always require incremental retracting and lowering since the jacks run on the level while the drivetrain is on an angle.
  
  An overhead beam with chains/straps for both the engine and tranny has the potential to keep the pair coaxial while retracting, plus the tranny (when clear) can be lowered to the ground without the issue of jack height underneath.  I'm thinking about a beam that can have the tranny end lowered ~5" after the straps are on the drivetrain, two on the engine and two or three on the tranny.
• #31 by vanbcguy on 19 Jun, 2015 13:28
• Man I can't wait till you actual get this out....
• #32 by 92EcoDiesel Jetta on 19 Jun, 2015 15:17
• Quote from: vanbcguy on 19 Jun, 2015 13:28

  Man I can't wait till you actual get this out....
  

  
  It's out! The rear scissor jack on the diff. was mounted too far back and was hitting the control arm bushing mount so I couldn't pull the tranny out all the way and was "stuck" I had to hang the tranny's 5th gear housing with a rope onto the brake line mount and removed the tranny jack and benched the rest of it out. Otherwise, the tranny jack worked well to rotate/ separate the tranny from the engine.
  
  
  
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  How do I remove this wire spring retainer without damaging it? I did not get a new one.
  [URL=http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/Ecodiesel92/media/20150619_164126_zpsysi9x393.jpg.html]
• #33 by 92EcoDiesel Jetta on 19 Jun, 2015 15:23
• Surprise surprise! The pressure plate bolts from FCPEuro are too short! This is after providing them the VIN   and they checked with a "reliable" source at a VW dealer they trust. What to do. Use the old bolts or get  correct new ones?
  
  
  
  
  
• #34 by srgtlord on 19 Jun, 2015 20:58
• Those short ones would fit the torque convertor to flex plate on the vw 010 auto tranmission. Im not sure how they messed that order up considering your car is a manual....
• #35 by 92EcoDiesel Jetta on 20 Jun, 2015 05:15
• Yeah don't know how they screwed that one up either. I sent them an email and will call later.
  
  Anyone have a mating harness connector with about 6" of wires so I can splice into my harness for this 5 pin reverse switch? Ever since swapping to the ACN, I lost my reverse lights due to a bad switch and non compatible harness connector. That's a new switch in this pic. 
  
  
  If I can't find the correct mating connector, I will make contact with the 2 pins for reverse, bring out in a pigtail to my harness and gob it up with RTV to keep the elements out.
  
  
  
  
  
• #36 by TylerDurden on 20 Jun, 2015 05:53
• Quote

  If I can't find the correct mating connector, I will make contact with the 2 pins for reverse, bring out in a pigtail to my harness and gob it up with RTV to keep the elements out.
  

  I'd go that direction.
• #37 by 92EcoDiesel Jetta on 20 Jun, 2015 07:30
• New clutch disc thickness is 0.35", the old clutch is 0.30", not close to to rivets yet, but the slots on the friction material is gone. Does that make a worn out clutch? It was slipping if I gun the throttle in 5th. The input shaft seal has a slow leak, which coated the bell housing with a film of oil. Would such a small leak get on the friction surfaces?  I did replace that seal when I did the ACN swap. Why is it leaking? I'll replace it again and take a closer look at the condition of the shaft surface.
• #38 by 92EcoDiesel Jetta on 21 Jun, 2015 11:14
• Quote from: TylerDurden on 19 Jun, 2015 12:45

  ........................
  
  An overhead beam with chains/straps for both the engine and tranny has the potential to keep the pair coaxial while retracting, plus the tranny (when clear) can be lowered to the ground without the issue of jack height underneath.  I'm thinking about a beam that can have the tranny end lowered ~5" after the straps are on the drivetrain, two on the engine and two or three on the tranny.
  

  
  Can you do a rough sketch of this while installed on the car? I have a hard time seeing it in my minds eye. I have some ideas in modifying mine for when the tranny goes back in. Meanwhile waiting for the correct bolts to come in the mail.
• #39 by TylerDurden on 22 Jun, 2015 09:28
• Might try something like this... sits in the fender recesses.
  
  
  
  Needs a hinge at the far end for when the tranny end is lowered.
  
  
• #40 by 92EcoDiesel Jetta on 24 Jun, 2015 07:32
• Quote from: TylerDurden on 22 Jun, 2015 09:28

  Might try something like this... sits in the fender recesses.
  
  
  
  Needs a hinge at the far end for when the tranny end is lowered.
  
  
  

  
  The orange ones are for the tranny? I do not see any means for rotation of tranny to clear flange from flywheel. I also fail to see how it is suppose to work. If the scissor jack is on the tranny side, then the bar is higher than horizontal on the tranny end. You need it opposite, i.e. lower than horizontal.
  
  Correct PP to flywheel bolts are suppose to arrive today.
• #41 by TylerDurden on 24 Jun, 2015 07:53
• Ja, orange are for the tranny. I might do similar for the engine, for more options.
  
  The jack is shown in extended position, lowering it to full bottom stop would lower the beam end 5-6".
  
  Still ruminating on rotation... might need a third tranny strap running to an arm extending opposite the diff to keep the housing in line.
• #42 by TylerDurden on 24 Jun, 2015 08:22
• A closer look shows me the lift points on the engine are a couple inches more forward than the tranny centerline, so that will need revision too.