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#15
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 24 May, 2015 06:56
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Impact screwdriver rarely fails me. Anytime that screw goes back in its treated with anti seize.
In the auto parts store, go to the "help" section. They have a pack of rotor screws for a Honda that's a perfect fit.
-Todd
Good to know. Are the autoparts store ones for Honda Phillips head? Are they stainless.
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#16
by
ORCoaster
on 24 May, 2015 11:01
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Didn't catch the Torx versus Hex in your picture post. I would go for Torx over hex as well. They are better. Philips not even on the list for consideration. Thanks for the clarification.
With all the other hex head bolts on the VW you have to wonder how did they sneak those on their rotors in the first place?
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#17
by
theman53
on 25 May, 2015 06:19
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I think they developed torx to be less tampered with. FWIW I have stripped many more torx fasteners to a tune of at least 10 to 1 over a socket head. I have stripped more hex keys than socket heads and stripped more torx bits than hex keys. Even a button head socket has more to hold than a torx. YRMV...
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#18
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 25 May, 2015 08:02
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I think they developed torx to be less tampered with. FWIW I have stripped many more torx fasteners to a tune of at least 10 to 1 over a socket head. I have stripped more hex keys than socket heads and stripped more torx bits than hex keys. Even a button head socket has more to hold than a torx. YRMV...
I'd have to disagree with the tampering part. Very odd you stripped more torx than allen and socket head.
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#19
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 25 May, 2015 08:21
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I was about to take the calipers and rotors off when I discovered a crack on one of the rotors. This crack is between 2 lug bolt. Is this common and what's the cause? I think it is due to a combination of rust between the rotor and hub (uneven surfaces) and me over torque-ing the lug bolts. I am now waiting for 2 new rotors before starting this job. I'll make sure to clean, sand and paint the hub before putting the new rotors on.
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#20
by
burn_your_money
on 25 May, 2015 19:48
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Scary. Over torquing usually just warps rotors from my understanding, although if it's not against a flat surface than anything is game.
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#21
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 25 May, 2015 20:55
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it is very possible the uneven surface is presented by the slightly protruding broken screw stud if the rotor screw hole is not lined up during wheel install. I'll take a closer look at the rotor for marks left by the broken screw.
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#22
by
ORCoaster
on 25 May, 2015 22:48
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theman53, IF you are stripping out a torx head more than a hex you are doing something out of the ordinary. Perhaps your bits are worn? They are designed to bite better than a hex so you shouldn't be stripping them out at all. I would be looking at your technique and your tools.
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#23
by
theman53
on 26 May, 2015 05:08
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theman53, IF you are stripping out a torx head more than a hex you are doing something out of the ordinary. Perhaps your bits are worn? They are designed to bite better than a hex so you shouldn't be stripping them out at all. I would be looking at your technique and your tools.
Nope.
Try to find *yes there are some* but seriously try to find a torx drive fastener over 10mm-1.5 thread in a 12.9 grade. They almost don't exist. Why wouldn't they want the best engagement in the bigger sizes? Maybe they are using the best engagement. I sell bolts to OEM mfg and pretty much the only reason they will use torx is in a spot where they don't want someone to take it apart with tools found under the kitchen sink. They don't have as much meat by design as they are not supposed to need it, but in the real world the design seems to disagree...again YRMV
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#24
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 26 May, 2015 08:35
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Critical fasteners such as CV axles, cyl head bolts etc are all Torx. Tamper proof fasteners are usually found in public rest rooms, not on cars.
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#25
by
libbydiesel
on 26 May, 2015 08:48
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None of the VW CV bolts are Torx. They are all either allen or triple-square.
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#26
by
ORCoaster
on 26 May, 2015 20:15
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92EcoDiesel, I had to laugh as I thought Hmmm, lets try those counterclockwise regular screwdriver type security nuts on that rotor. Bet theman would be sooooo pissed about that.
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#27
by
air-cooled or diesel
on 29 May, 2015 07:04
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i like those screws, and shinny too; that pic of your rotor looks like sh*t, ive never had a rotor look that bad, its been sitting around for a while or something else is wrong for it to look like that, brake area should be bare metal, some rust will get wiped away when you brake, too much and you will ,i guess, get bad wear patterns, or chew up pads.
phillips screws are about 25 ft lbs break, max, that is if screw head doesnt strip before, which it usually does, or gets rusted in, an allen head is a big step up, torx is another step up and should hold up to mid torque. you shouldnt have many striping problems with torx, unless you have another problem, rust, overtightening, cross-thread when you put it in, ?possibly a chewed up tool?. my cv bolts are like 8-point, maybe more point, have a snap-on tool for that. i do believe cv bolts are hardened too.
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#28
by
fatmobile
on 29 May, 2015 12:28
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I use an impact screwdriver (I impact a screwdriver with a hammer) to remove them.
Put the screwdriver in the screw and hit it with a hammer,.. to loosen it up.
Works great.
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#29
by
ToddA1
on 29 May, 2015 12:57
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Good to know. Are the autoparts store ones for Honda Phillips head? Are they stainless.
Philips head and not stainless. If you anti seize them, they should never be an issue.
The only time I use the impact screwdriver is to break them free if I pick up another car. These screws don't need to be super tight.... hand tight is fine. The screws are only there to hold the rotor.
-Todd
