Brand New Turbo delivered today (HE200WG from Alcaid)

[RunninWild]

Turbo looks nice! I'm planning on eventually getting one for my AAZ.

Sorry to thread jack but what is that t25 exhaust manifold from? The only ones I can find on ebay are for 1.8t and 2.0t gassers?

[theman53]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-Corrado-Jetta-2-0L-8V-1-8L-G60-PG-Turbo-T25-Exhaust-Manifold-Turbo-Manifold-/351311898873?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_205&hash=item51cbd228f9

similar to what I have

[libbydiesel]

With the turbo that far from the head you should triangulate it or you'll very likely break exhaust studs.

[Jetmugg]

With the turbo that far from the head you should triangulate it or you'll very likely break exhaust studs.

Good Call.  With the new turbo, I'll add some support from below.

Steve.

[Jetmugg]

Lucas - thanks for the link.  When I bought my exhaust manifold, I foolishly ordered the T3 flange model.  The T25 cast manifolds are not as common.

Now that I'm re-fitting things I have the opportunity to buy a T25 manifold and give it a try.  I might just do that.

I'm planning on running at The Ohio Mile on the weekend of June 6-7th.

Steve

[Jetmugg]

Jetmugg, does this Holset use a T25 size turbine inlet, or is it something else?  If something else, can you please post the exact center to center bolt spacing for inlet into turbine?  I assume it's rectangular, not triangular?  Curious if this turbo will work on my 2.0 TD application.  Thanks.

As far as I can see, it's a standard T25 inlet, not the triangular setup.

I would defer to Alcaid's recommendations about sizing for a 2.0TD, but I suspect this would be a good match for a "hopped up" 2.0 TD.

It would  probably too much for my 1.5 in a street application, but should be spot-on for racing.

Steve.

[Selle]

The Holset has a T25 inlet

I am using the same turbo on my mk4 1.9TDI, it should work just fine on a 2.0TD

[rabbid79]

Jetmugg, does this Holset use a T25 size turbine inlet, or is it something else?  If something else, can you please post the exact center to center bolt spacing for inlet into turbine?  I assume it's rectangular, not triangular?  Curious if this turbo will work on my 2.0 TD application.  Thanks.

As far as I can see, it's a standard T25 inlet, not the triangular setup.

I would defer to Alcaid's recommendations about sizing for a 2.0TD, but I suspect this would be a good match for a "hopped up" 2.0 TD.

It would  probably too much for my 1.5 in a street application, but should be spot-on for racing.

Steve.

The Holset has a T25 inlet

I am using the same turbo on my mk4 1.9TDI, it should work just fine on a 2.0TD

Thanks guys for verifying that for me.

[air-cooled or diesel]

i had noticed 1 thing on your original post on this motor when you were 1st building it. your 1st video shows you starting it up (about page10, post #150 or so). if that was your first start up you did 1 thing wrong. your 1st start after a build/rebuild you need to breakin the cam. you do this like this. cold 1st start: let idle for at least 5secs, this lets the engine get its 1st oil pressure thru it, rev easily to 2000rpm, back to idle, shut down, check/top off oil, restart, easily rev to 2000rpm, Stay there for at minimum 20 minutes. this makes sure you have enough oil @cam lobes so it can start to break in. as the cam lobes are splash fed, so idleing can starve cam while it makes a wear pattern.
the other thing; the man had repeatedly urged you to get mileage on it, most of the important break in is done at 55mph and below, at mild throttle settings, mid speeds, more miles would be better, as engine gets more mileage on it, increase speeds some. after about 1000miles you are pretty well broke in, you can now increase throttle and speeds, -i find you can loosen an engine during this and you will notice its looser.

[Gizmoman]

I agree all of with the posts as far as getting miles on it. My van (rebuilt AAZ) got a second life on the way home from it's first 1500 mile trip.
As for cam break-in - no expert but here but, it sounds very logical.

It's probably tough finding someplace to put 1000 miles on it I'm guessing.

[theman53]

IMHO rings seat fairly quick or not at all, but the rest of the bearings and such need to settle.

IMHO it is retarded to only run it to 55mph for break in. You need to utilize the entire RPM range, but slowly. Not mash the pedal to the floor, but roll into in when fully warmed and running well. I also don't roll it and continue to climb the rpm, I get into it and let off and so on until I reach a full pedal scenario. That way you don't over heat the rings and lose the temper. I have a 2 mile long hill that it takes me a bit to get to, so all is warmed up well and I get to full pedal and RPM somewhere before the 20 mile mark. I will also turn around and use that hill to decelerate and use the engine to try and hold it at a certain rpm, so the rings work on the negative pressure too. On all the gas engines I rebuilt if I didn't do this they used oil if you went above the rpm you broke it in with, ex: say 55mph = 2,400 rpm if it was broken in there and I ran it above that for a long period of time I would use oil. I haven't done any of the diesels like that and I don't really use any oil at all.

[air-cooled or diesel]

one of the things, im definitely not saying anything like im driving at 2400rpm, in 5th yes for a while, ive never had and oil consumption problems, then again in hi gear im not going over 60 or so. ive also found early in a break in going over 55mph will start to cook your rings, a small amount at first, later when you have seated the rings, yes bring the revs up, although in these old cars its hard to run above 65 and maintain the car on a budget, like me my trans maxes out at 55, so no probs for me. as to when you add revs and load after the rings seat, give them a bit, and keep seating them at different speeds. and decel revs too.

[Jetmugg]

There are as many schools of thought about breaking in an engine as there are "what's the best oil" thoughts.  I used a Joe Gibb's break in lube for the initial start-up, all the way through the first dyno session.  After that, I switched to Mobil 1 diesel-spec oil, which is provided by one of my local sponsors.

I don't like to let an engine stay at a steady RPM during the break-in period.  I think it's better to vary the RPM's during this period.

After start-up, I did vary the RPM's up and down for the first 10-15 mins or so, then drove the truck around the neighborhood just as a "shake down".

My school of thought has always been along the lines of "Break it in like you are going to use it".  For a street car, highway cruiser, engine that is going to see a lot of miles, then being mellow with the engine makes sense.

This is a race engine. I ran it on the chassis dyno at Ranken Technical Institute in St Louis shortly after the initial shake-down.  At that point, we warmed it up, got it on the dyno, and did a bunch of pulls from 2,500 up and over 5,500 rpm's.  We were over 120 mph on the dyno, with a simulated load applied through the dyno software.

The engine may have "loosened up" some since then, but there's no way I'm going to get 1,000 miles on the vehicle.  It does not have any working exterior lights, the windows are bolted in place, and the interior is nothing but steel tubing and sheet metal.

After setting records at Ohio and Bonneville, I'm satisfied that the engine is working well, and is ready for the next dose of power, in the form of a larger displacement Dieselmeken pump, and a bigger turbo.

We will be running at Ohio in June to see if we can bump the 1.5 record there.

Steve.

[air-cooled or diesel]

I don't like to let an engine stay at a steady RPM during the break-in period.  I think it's better to vary the RPM's during this period.

if your idleing (no load,not in gear) your not really doing too much, loosening tight parts at first, when you get it in gear most things happen from then, but the first 20 min are particularly important to the cam, i ve seen in some shop manuals -do not drive for the first 20 mins-, the revs being at 2000rpm for 20 mins allows the cam enough oil to begin to break in, reving it up from low rpms add to the fact the cam lobes may not have enough oil, after the 20 min @2000rpm yes start to vary the load/revs. the 2000 rpms is both a safe speed for cam, and you have enough oil at cam lobes while they develop their first wear pattern

[745 turbogreasel]

I have never seen a rational justification for operating a VW diesel under  2000 RPM ever.  The cam wear breakin thing IMO is a carryover from v8 gassers which are prone to cam wear.
The only things I've seen  kill a VW cam is being left outside and high RPM valve collision.