That's like $130 for the hardware that you still consider single use. I'd just buy the stock bolts or the ARP studs. and not mess with an experiment that costs 10 times what the stock bolts cost.
...BTW your Bieber avatar is awesome.-Malone
Tightening torquesApply to lightly oiled nuts and bolts.Degreased (washed) parts must be oiled prior to assembly.Cylinder head--tighten in stagessequence[pic]Tighten cylinder head bolts in stagesRemove oil and dirt from bolt holes. Oil and dirt left in holes will reduce the pressure on cylinder head gasket.Bolt threads and washers must however be oiled, otherwise frictional forces will be too large.Use new bolts. The washers need not be replaced.Tighten in six stages:stage 1=30ft/lbs.stage 2=44ft/lbs.stage 3=55ft/lbs.stage 4=tighten 180* Note this should be in one movement without stopping.stage 5=Run engine till oil temperature is at least 112F.stage 6=tighten 90* Note this should be in one movement without stopping.Retorquing of cylinder head boltsRetorque after 600-1200 miles. The engine should be cold or almost cold.Tighen each bolt separately and in correct sequence(see pic).Tighten bolt 90* Note this should be in one movement without stopping.Bolts should not be slackened first.
As a mechanical engineer who designs bolted connections on a regular basis, I have a little bit of an idea whats going on here
most of the head bolts i get have anti-seize with them (in seperate packet) so i use it, (not the anti-seize that comes w/bolts either).might i point out using OIL on head bolts can cause you to crack your block, and i find anti-seize to be better.i saw at least 1 post of using brake clean and compressed air.++.
New bolt length = 110.4mm (Tip to washer)Block-Hole depth = 43.5mmHead-hole depth = 78.8Gasket = 1mmCombined hole depth = 123.3mmRemaining threads in block after threading head and bolts = 11mm (corrected from 13mm)Bolt threads below head/gasket = 32mmHead recess before threads begin = 13mmThread engaged during fastening = 19mm