Quote from: sparkoid on October 04, 2012, 09:44:20 amR.O.R, what do you mean by "the real diesel studs"Prior searches are what led me to ARP to begin with, but maybe it's time to troll again...ARP makes regular 12mm studs, and ARP2000 diesel specific 12mm studs..AKA: real diesel studs..
R.O.R, what do you mean by "the real diesel studs"Prior searches are what led me to ARP to begin with, but maybe it's time to troll again...
The nut thread pitch is definitely finer than the 11x1.5 bottom, I'd speculate it's half.Guess I'll have to sidle up to it like RustyCaddy did; heard back from ARP, they just repeated they have no kit for the 1.6, and were apparently unwilling / unable to do any lookups or analysis.I've seen some torque-to-clamping force calculators on engineering sites, but so far none with input for lube, bolt composition, etc, so I don't know how realistic it would be to calculate the clamping strength the old bolt / old torque produced and translate that to my ARP mystery studs / mystery lube.
my 11mm block with undercut ARP studs went this way.tightened all to 30, then to 60 and then to 90 using ARP lube. Ran the engine to warm it up. Backed each stud off a 1/4 turn or so then back to 90. Later got pressure in the coolant so i retorqued to 95...more pressure..retorqued to 100 and haven't had a problem since.That said, i had good threads
Hmmmm. I'm getting little pressure, should I retorque? Thought a little pressure was normal.Clamping force has little to do with the threads. The force is between the nut and the washer.
QuoteHmmmm. I'm getting little pressure, should I retorque? Thought a little pressure was normal.Clamping force has little to do with the threads. The force is between the nut and the washer.Do not attempt a retorque till you understand how a ramp works, and why this applies to threads!!!!
I'm getting little pressure, should I retorque?