AAZ into MK1 issues

[Darkness_is_spreading]

Hey everyone, 

I am almost near the end for this project car and I am running into some issues with the install.

I have to redo my brake lines going to the rear of the car because they interfere with the existing shift linkage. Does anyone have any pictures of what their setup looks like?




Picture of rack measurement


Also I think my shift linkage "Rod" is possibly too short because I measured 10" from the relay shaft to the selector shaft.

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Picture of the transmission linkages:

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Engine installed in car:

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What lower rad hose works with the AAZ to MK1 conversion?

Tight Fit:

Will post more pics on the timing belt cover mod for the 1.9 TD.....

Help a Brotha Out

[rallydiesel]

As far as the brake lines go, I would highly recommend copper nickel brake lines. Very easy to bend for custom applications and should make your situation easy-peasy  .

[8v-of-fury]

Was the car originally a standard transmission mk1?

I don't see why any of the problems you said occurred. MY brother and I AAZ swapped his mk1 Jetta 2 months ago in 8 hours running to running. plus 2 other others for 10 hours total if you include pulling engine from donor car.

The shift linkage should be the exact same, the AAZ block is not any different than that of the 1.5, 1.6 or 1.7 it was replacing. Did you use an mk1 tranny? shouldn't matter anyway, all 020 are physically the same size outside.

Lower rad hose? If you are using the stock mk1 rad, and still have the plastic lower neck on the AAZ, pull that metal clip in the neck and pull the 90 off of it, attach stock 1.6 bottom hose. done.

[Darkness_is_spreading]

Hey,

Thanks for the info on the lower Rad hose attachment, that bugger is a sucker to get off, even with the clip out it seems like it has something else holding it in place..... 

The car came factory as a 5 spd manual with a 1.6 TD.

The AAZ engine and 020 transaxle from the Mexican Rust Bucket.

It seems the previous owner welded the two backets to the manual steering rack...
Does any one have an idea as to why I am running into such an issue.

Can some one take some measurments of the bracket attached to the manual steering rack?
What is the measuremnt of the "Rod" between the relay shaft to the selector shaft?

Gonna check to make sure the engine is mounted correctly.

[Darkness_is_spreading]

So quick update pictures to follow tonight.

The "Rod" that attaches from the relay shaft to the selector shaft is longer (about 10" in length), you cannot use the Mk2 or Mk3 weighted rod without modification period.  
I was able to pick one up at a local vw supplier.

Soon to follow will be pics of the modified timing belt cover with measurements.....  

[R.O.R-2.0]

So quick update pictures to follow tonight.

The "Rod" that attaches from the relay shaft to the selector shaft is longer (about 10" in length), you cannot use the Mk2 or Mk3 weighted rod without modification period.  
I was able to pick one up at a local vw supplier.

Soon to follow will be pics of the modified timing belt cover with measurements.....  

oh yea, missed that.. the mk3 weighted rod is a mk2 only mod, being that they come stock on all 2.0L mk3s..

you gotta use mk1 shifter pieces to make the shifter in a mk1 work 

[Darkness_is_spreading]

Well at-least I can document the issue here for future readers, plus as the Guru's some questions.
Here are some pics of the longer linkage in action.






Also here is a picture of the lower rad hose connection with the elbow taken off, does this look like a decent connection for a hose clamp?

Should this be changed for a older MK2 or Mk1 water pump connection?

I removed the rubber o-ring from this piece, because it was folding over when I put the lower rad hose on




Finally the modifications of the aaz inner timing case showing a first gen bracket. (I used as much stainless steel hardware as I could on this project).  Hate rusty bolts....


   

[8v-of-fury]

You could always swap the lower neck out for the older metal ones.. But if you break those bolts off.. The whole assembly needs to come off, injection pump included.

[burn_your_money]

You could always swap the lower neck out for the older metal ones.. But if you break those bolts off.. The whole assembly needs to come off, injection pump included.

No need for the IP to come off. Just take off the 5? bolts that hold the alternator bracket to the motor and then take off the 1 bolt that holds the water pump on and away you go

[Darkness_is_spreading]

Hey thanks guys I will try this out this week, getting rained out today....

Also I have to replace the downpipe studs on the K03 turbo, they are a tough bastard to get out, and I have some replacement studs to correct the situation. (Turbo off car of course).

All that is left over is clean fuel, electrical and exhaust, can't wait to start it up again.... been too long.

New pics to appear soon enough....

[Darkness_is_spreading]

Hey everyone,

Ran into some issues with the studs on the turbo....  But they are now replaced and looking good.

Next issues is the down pipe and fitment around the steering rack, but I found this helpful link in which I will follow:
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=18270.0

Adjusted the linkages with a cassette tape and it shifts like magic....

I'm going to have to fab up the bends to add onto the existing downpipe.... I will match the profile of the original DP.
What suggestions do you have when welding exhaust systems.....  low current to keep the temps down to avoid blowin through the thin gauge steel?