GT2056V on a 1.6TD...

[RabbitJockey]

pretty sure its a GTB2056VL..

pulled this off TDIclub, and it describes my turbo to a TEE..

volvo gtb2056vl
Compressor (6 main blades) inducer/exducer: 39.6mm / 56mm
Turbine (9 blades) exducer/inducer: 42mm / 47mm
Compressor A/R: 0.45
Turbine A/R: 0.64

so, the 56mm turbos are better?

yeah because they have larger exducer, generally, a larger exducer means the turbo will be more efficient at higher boost pressure because the air is moving much faster when it leaves the tip of the compressor wheel because of the wheel being bigger.  the inducer generally is what limits how much air the turbo can actually flow, and at what flow/pressure it will surge at.  and the balance between those 2 sizes gets u a turbo that is efficient where you want it to be.

i don't see a map for your turbo on garretts site, there is only one for the 55 trim 56mm wheel, but judging by the inducer size, that things good for 200-250hp worth of flow, and judging by the exducer size and the 55 trim map you're good for over 30psi of boost, and it takes that much boost to get that much flow, so its looking very good for you.

i would just recommend an emp gauge so u can get a better idea of whats going on with the turbo and if its working correctly or efficiently.  and check what hp the tdi guys have done with this turbo u should be able to do similar numbers at maybe a slightly higher boost pressure.  it looks very promising tho.

[RabbitJockey]

also check this out, kind of cool from garretts site

so its a boreless(what ever that means)

multivane variable geometry

and water cooled?

[R.O.R-2.0]

damn, not a VL.. thats for sure. no water cooling.

its a 2nd (3rd?) generation VNT, meaning its a GTB. i believe GT was 1st gen, GTA was 2nd gen, and GTB was 3rd gen, could be wrong tho.

its not boreless.. boreless compressor wheels screw directly to the turbine shaft. there is no nut holding the wheel on the shaft.

there are threads inside the bore of the compressor wheel. but the bore does not go completely thru the wheel now..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GT42-GTA42-Billet-Compressor-Wheel-Boreless-/221034310534

theres a GT42 boreless wheel.

boreless just means there is no nut holding the compressor wheel to the shaft..

[R.O.R-2.0]

also, how many degrees can the center section be away from vertical?

right now, the turbo oil feed and return are straight up and down.

so, given that the engine is tilted 15* towards the firewall, that puts my center section at 15* also..

whats the max angle that you can have your center section, and still have it drain properly?

[RabbitJockey]

damn, not a VL.. thats for sure. no water cooling.

its a 2nd (3rd?) generation VNT, meaning its a GTB. i believe GT was 1st gen, GTA was 2nd gen, and GTB was 3rd gen, could be wrong tho.

its not boreless.. boreless compressor wheels screw directly to the turbine shaft. there is no nut holding the wheel on the shaft.

there are threads inside the bore of the compressor wheel. but the bore does not go completely thru the wheel now..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GT42-GTA42-Billet-Compressor-Wheel-Boreless-/221034310534

theres a GT42 boreless wheel.

boreless just means there is no nut holding the compressor wheel to the shaft..

thats cool, i wonder what the purpose of that is., i have heard 15 degrees is the max but i don't really know

[libbydiesel]

Garrett says 15° max.

[R.O.R-2.0]

Garrett says 15° max.

so, im basically stuck keeping the turbo parallel to the engine then?

because it looks about impossible to re-clock this turbo..

[libbydiesel]

You could probably have a taper machined off the mating surfaces of the turbo and manifold.

Clocking the VNT center cartridge is possible, but a challenge.  It requires precisely drilling/tapping new holes for mounting the vane carrier to the turbine housing.

[R.O.R-2.0]

You could probably have a taper machined off the mating surfaces of the turbo and manifold.

Clocking the VNT center cartridge is possible, but a challenge.  It requires precisely drilling/tapping new holes for mounting the vane carrier to the turbine housing.

thought about cutting the flange off the header, and welding it back on at an angle.. then i decided to just raise the whole flange up. that should give me enough room for everything. i got the turbo setup and Rolince Enterprises engine mount mocked up on an old engine, but the engine mount was touching the turbo intake, so thats why i wanted to either mount the turbo out of parallel with the engine, or else raise the whole thing up a bit. i decided that raising it up is the easiest option.

and yea, i remember the thread about re-clocking a VNT, and the work involved.. im not interested, nor equipped to do said work. i will just work with the clocking that it currently has.

kinda a cool bit of info, the oil inlet fitting, and the return line flange are identical between the VNT15, and VNT20.. i thought i was going to have to build a new return line flange, and locate a new oil inlet fitting for sure, but i dug my old VNT15 center section out, and sure enough, it had some useful parts. glad i didnt throw out those then "useless" VNT parts, because now they are very useful again!

gonna have the header finished up tonight, so i might actually be able to fire the beast up before i go to bed. i miss the scream of the old VNT15 turbo that i used to have installed. VNTs have a very distinctive sound, over a conventional turbo. you can actually hear the vanes opening and closing, thru the changing exhaust/turbine sound..

[R.O.R-2.0]

well, i got a couple words for you guys...

HOLY CRAP...

this turbo is AMAZING.. maybe even a bit of a monster.

it makes 20psi easy at half pedal..

and the response is amazing. it isnt very laggy at all. spools sooner than my open VNT15, or K24 did.

i cant wait to see what this thing is capable of!

anyways, thanks for reading, and stay tuned.. this is just the beginning of a very wild build..

(i believe this may be the easy solution for those of us wanting compound turbos, because this one spools low, and comes on HARD)

[theman53]

I figured. And this is what I wanted to hear BTW

[R.O.R-2.0]

maybe this will set a new trend, and more people will start playing with bigger VNTs?!

the funniest thing about all this, is that a VNT is considered to be emissions control equipment!! LMFAO!!

i added emissions control equipment to my diesel, and it added HP..  

[libbydiesel]

You weren't my guinea pig or trendsetter.  I started using the VNTs on IDIs in 2005, about three years before you joined this forum in 2008 as "Rabbit On Roids" and I had built several mechanical controls in that time.  I'd give more credit to Tintin and Jake Russel (FspGTD). 

[R.O.R-2.0]

notice i said KINDA, and didnt try and take ALL the credit for it.. i know there were others before me. when i did my VNT swap, there wasnt a LOAD of info out there about the conversion, like there is now.. when i did mine, i believe you were still coming up with a way to better mechanically control the vanes on your VNT.. now VNT powered mk1/2/3s are as common as a street hooker with chlamydia..

i still dont know of anyone else running a VNT this big on a 1.6 tho... sure theres PLENTY of them over on the direct injection side, but ive been searching, and turned up nothing even close to what im building..

i know you have been at this MUCH longer than me. i never said you werent. you are one smart mofo, i can never take that away from you. your VNT control system.. genius..

[libbydiesel]

No worries man.  I wasn't hurt.

I think it's good that you are enjoying the performance.  I still think the turbo is larger than I would want on a 1.6.  I wouldn't want to run more than an efficient 25 psi on a 1.6TD because the engines I run are in drivers and more boost than that makes for short-lived rod bearings even if it doesn't blow head gaskets or bend rods.  That boost level can be sustained with a VNT 17 or 18.  The only things you gain from running a larger turbo is the ability for a higher max boost and lag.  If a smaller turbo will efficiently produce the max boost you want to run, then going bigger just adds lag.  

As another example, I only want to run about 15-18 psi on my 300TD and so the 2559 I have on there is actually a little too big, IMO.  I could have probably used a 2256 from a Sprinter and had faster response.  

Anyway, glad you are enjoying it.  From the sounds of it, it is performing the way I thought.  Vanes closed, it responds faster than the K24 or VNT15 with vanes open, and I'm sure it has the capacity to efficiently run higher boost than I'd want to run.

That's also the reason I'm not particularly interested in compounds.  I can already efficiently have more boost than I'd want to run without any lag.  I'm sure the performance of compounds can be awesome, but doing the installation is certainly more work and complication than one of my mechanical vane controls.