k24/t3 on AAZ concise and simple!

[tdotdub]

i have googled about anything and everything, youtubed all you want.

i am aware that putting any of the above turbo will make the car lagier....that's fine, i want to be able to make good use of the giles pump and the k04 wont last long at the current 18psi so be it.

im confused as to what exactly needs to be re-used during this swap, and what needs to be changed.
My current understanding is this:

turbo of choice k24/t3, intake manifold from 1.6td or 1.9td is same and both will work?(yes, no?), exhaust manifold from the particular turbo k24/t3 (are they the same?) and a custom return oil line to be made at a hydrauylic shop due the aaz having a longer oil pan, as well as the downpipe needs to be custom or from the k24/t3.

[CrazyAndy]

You have the parts swap list pretty much spot-on, save for the fact the AAZ turbo oil drain exits into the back of the block instead of running into the oil pan.  Take tha tinto consideration when making your custom drain line.  Also teh 1.9TD is the AAZ manifold adn only works on a K03.  Concerning downpipes, what body style is this motor going into?  You might have an aftermarket solution.

As for the laggyness, yes a t3/k24 is laggy, but it's better on the AAZ due to that extra 300cc and little extra head port flow.  If you're getting a Gils pump then the extra fueling should help spool the turbo, knocking that lag down a little more.  Do you plan on running an intercooler setup?  I'd recommend it especially since this will be paired with Giles' high super pump!

As far as doing the  swap, I would definitely go for it!  You're choices so far are baisically running parallel to my AAZ build, and I have dome some research as well; keep asking questions if any remain. 

[Thezorn]

i have googled about anything and everything, youtubed all you want.

i am aware that putting any of the above turbo will make the car lagier....that's fine, i want to be able to make good use of the giles pump and the k04 wont last long at the current 18psi so be it.

im confused as to what exactly needs to be re-used during this swap, and what needs to be changed.
My current understanding is this:

turbo of choice k24/t3, intake manifold from 1.6td or 1.9td is same and both will work?(yes, no?), exhaust manifold from the particular turbo k24/t3 (are they the same?) and a custom return oil line to be made at a hydrauylic shop due the aaz having a longer oil pan, as well as the downpipe needs to be custom or from the k24/t3.

Intake mani on 1.6 and the 1.9 are different, they will bolt up to the same head but an AAZ has D ports compaired to the 1.6 with roundish ports.
If your AAZ has a K03 on it right now you will need an exhaust manifold from either a 1.6 or an AAZ that used a K14.

If your just looking to keep it stockish then you can just buy a downpipe from an AAZ that has a K14 on it. But since your getting a built pump it would be best to build your own better flowing 2.5" DP.

If your putting your oil drain to the oil pan you will have to plug the hole that the oil drain for your current turbo flows to. I would personally just retain the track of the current oil drain and build your new one to be the same, could be as easy as a couple of pipe fittings. One tig welded to a flange to bolt to the K24 and one two the hole in the block, with a couple barbed fittings and push on oil rated hole in between. Remember there is no pressure on this return line so it doesnt need to be built from stainless braided line.

[jb86]

I have k24 on my 1.6l
No boost till it gets to about 2800 rpm
I do most driving around town and don't accelerate hard
I shift into 2nd at 10mph
Ect
Don't rev high
I'm interested in fuel economy
Not so much performance
The turbo does pretty much nothing unless I get on the highway

I rebuilt the K24 recently and have 2k miles on it
I just bought K14
That way it will actually do something when driving around town
You want a deal on a rebuilt K24?
Jon

[R.O.R-2.0]

if your turbo doesnt come on till almost 3 grand, theres something wrong..

my K24 would be WELL SPOOLED by 2000 revs..

[libbydiesel]

ROR, that is because you are significantly over-fueled (as I keep telling you)...

[R.O.R-2.0]

ROR, that is because you are significantly over-fueled (as I keep telling you)...

over fuel makes the turbo spool sooner also? having the wastegate unplugged prolly dont help either.

i thought that the fuel screw controlled the MAX FUEL amount, not the entire fuel curve..

[billybobf]

see, I thought it was relevant to the entire curve, actually gave more fuel over the entire fly-weight system, while the max rpm screw allowed more top end rpm, and that the gov mod told it how quick to let it get to max rpm?

[libbydiesel]

More fuel makes more boost sooner.  Max fuel only affects the fuel at floored or nearly floored pedal positions, but does so for the entire rpm range.  Disconnecting the wastegate will not have any affect on boost threshold.

[CrazyAndy]

More fuel makes more boost sooner.  Max fuel only affects the fuel at floored or nearly floored pedal positions, but does so for the entire rpm range.  Disconnecting the wastegate will not have any affect on boost threshold.

The unhooked wastegate does however help with the time it takes the turbo to spool up once the boost threshold RPM is reached, thereby reducing overall time the turbo takes to reach full boost.  But ROR's over-fueling does help due to the added expansion rate of the hotter exhaust gasses via the extra fuel.  Displacement and compression help too, which is why the 1.9 should be a better candidate.

Also tdo, thezorn's right about the 1.9 manifold port shape; can't believe I forgot to mention that.  Another intake option would be an ALH or pumpe-duse maifold, though you'd need a EGR bypass pipe to go on the end of either to replace the shutoff flap and EGR re-circulation port.  Some Vortex members sell both the manis and the pipes; the best ones usually come from Europe, but that's a big wait time.  Mine took 5 weeks just to get through customs.  On the flip side I actually have a clean AAZ intake and a ALH intake that needs to be de-carboned.  Pick your poison and PM if interested!

[Thezorn]

More fuel makes more boost sooner.  Max fuel only affects the fuel at floored or nearly floored pedal positions, but does so for the entire rpm range.  Disconnecting the wastegate will not have any affect on boost threshold.

The unhooked wastegate does however help with the time it takes the turbo to spool up once the boost threshold RPM is reached, thereby reducing overall time the turbo takes to reach full boost.  But ROR's over-fueling does help due to the added expansion rate of the hotter exhaust gasses via the extra fuel.  Displacement and compression help too, which is why the 1.9 should be a better candidate.

Also tdo, thezorn's right about the 1.9 manifold port shape; can't believe I forgot to mention that.  Another intake option would be an ALH or pumpe-duse maifold, though you'd need a EGR bypass pipe to go on the end of either to replace the shutoff flap and EGR re-circulation port.  Some Vortex members sell both the manis and the pipes; the best ones usually come from Europe, but that's a big wait time.  Mine took 5 weeks just to get through customs.  On the flip side I actually have a clean AAZ intake and a ALH intake that needs to be de-carboned.  Pick your poison and PM if interested!

I bought a PD130 intake manifold off a TDIclub user. PD150 or 130 will work depending on witch side you want the intake to point.There has been alot of disagreement over witch manifold points what way. My PD130 points to the drivers side, which is what I wanted. From what Ive read on the subject PD150's are the ones that point to the passanger side. Then again this is just my opinoin..and who am I right?

I would go this route if you have a bit of money to spend. I paid 180 shipped to me in Canada from germany. The seller was very reputable and a very good guy to deal with. Which was nice since honest sellers are hard to find sometimes. I forget his name right now, Ill take a look and post it up in a bit

[Syncroincity]

I have an OEM AAZ turbo oil drain line around somewhere, if you can use it. One end screws into the threaded female turbo drain flange, the other end has a large banjo and goes to the side of the block.

[CrazyAndy]

More fuel makes more boost sooner.  Max fuel only affects the fuel at floored or nearly floored pedal positions, but does so for the entire rpm range.  Disconnecting the wastegate will not have any affect on boost threshold.

The unhooked wastegate does however help with the time it takes the turbo to spool up once the boost threshold RPM is reached, thereby reducing overall time the turbo takes to reach full boost.  But ROR's over-fueling does help due to the added expansion rate of the hotter exhaust gasses via the extra fuel.  Displacement and compression help too, which is why the 1.9 should be a better candidate.

Also tdo, thezorn's right about the 1.9 manifold port shape; can't believe I forgot to mention that.  Another intake option would be an ALH or pumpe-duse maifold, though you'd need a EGR bypass pipe to go on the end of either to replace the shutoff flap and EGR re-circulation port.  Some Vortex members sell both the manis and the pipes; the best ones usually come from Europe, but that's a big wait time.  Mine took 5 weeks just to get through customs.  On the flip side I actually have a clean AAZ intake and a ALH intake that needs to be de-carboned.  Pick your poison and PM if interested!

I bought a PD130 intake manifold off a TDIclub user. PD150 or 130 will work depending on witch side you want the intake to point.There has been alot of disagreement over witch manifold points what way. My PD130 points to the drivers side, which is what I wanted. From what Ive read on the subject PD150's are the ones that point to the passanger side. Then again this is just my opinoin..and who am I right?

I would go this route if you have a bit of money to spend. I paid 180 shipped to me in Canada from germany. The seller was very reputable and a very good guy to deal with. Which was nice since honest sellers are hard to find sometimes. I forget his name right now, Ill take a look and post it up in a bit

I think the numbers refer to the type of engine it was on; 130 for the 130HP euro version in a transverse application, 150 for the 150HP euro in longitudinal.  But that's just the reasoning behind the numbers, the 130 points to the D/S and the 150 points to the D/S like you said.  It is a nice upgrade since it has largely equal runners and a good diameter inlet.  I got mine off of a seller on Vortex.  225 shipped from Bulgaria, really reasonable guy.  Thread link:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5397306-FS-PD150-intakes&p=75656876#post75656876
A lot of other guys have used this thread to great success it seems from the other replies than mine (I'm AWestmoreland'81).

Good luck!

[Thezorn]

I purchased mine from a guy on TDIclb, username SLOW-MOE.
I paid right around $150 shipped to me from germany, which is a very good price from what Ive seen.

[chrisg]

the only reason to change the intake would be for an intercooler application, if your not intercooling than its not a big deal

i run a T3 on my AAZ.

all i did was take the manifold with the turbo still on it and put it on my AAZ, the exhaust manifolds are different but the ports are the same, so you can bolt the 1.6td manifold with a turbo attached to the AAZ.

i then cut the top flange from the 1.6td oil drain and welded it the top flange of the AAZ one. then grinded away most of the original AAZ flange until the bolt holes were clear and open on the flange.

i then had to bend the pipe a little to make room for the manifold.

after than i cut the T3 downpipe flange off and built a down pipe.

then i noticed the rubber hoses for the intake was different (different diameters) so i took the 1.6 hose, and unbolted the elbow and swaped both small elbow and rubber hose.

wala, done