downpipes

[Trips_B]

Lol, im not even home from work yet!

put your intake mani on the head, bolt the turbo to the exhaust mani and then test fit it.  The A/R housing may contact the intake because you rotated it.  This will obviously prevent a proper seal and cause exhaust leaks.  You may have to take an angle grinder and shave the areas of contact down until it bolts up nicely.  If the exhaust mani doesnt slide onto the studs nice and flush and you torque it down you run the risks of cracking or breaking something

[One_punchmachinegun]

ok, thank you, good lookin out

[CRSMP5]

where in pa are you??? ive got tig/mig and for the right price could be presuaded to visit...

[One_punchmachinegun]

east, near philidelphia. Looks like your from Ohio..

[Trips_B]

ok heres some shots on what I did.  2.5" straight through no cat/res or muffler

Heres the u-pipe and 18 degree bend.  I ended up cutting the u-pipe just off center.  It worked out damn near perfect, lots of clearance at the shift linkage and about an inch of clearance at the steering rack.  You can also see that I had to grind down one side of the flange as it interfered with the block off plate on my T3.  Keep in mind the DP needs a flex pipe   





and a couple other shots of lengths




I forgot to mention that I also used a couple dual open-ended couplings.  The exhaust pipe fit in both ends, I then welded one side to the pipe on the far side of exhaust flow and used a clamp on the other side

heres the best shot I could take of the turbo/intake mani interference.  You can see the grinding I did but you can see how damn close they are to each other.  And those bumps on the A/R housing where it bolts together realy limit where you rotate it too.



And here, think about it.  The stock setup in a 90 degree silicone coupling.  That puts the smallest part of the A/R housing up by the intake mani.  As you rotate it the housing becomes bigger

[One_punchmachinegun]

thank you for the downpipe pictures it really helps.

I see what your saying about the turbo/intake mani interference. That is what im going to work on figuring out as soon as i get off work. That and what I'm going to do about transmissions.

I will keep this updated with what i do with the downpipe. I will try to take lots of pictures. Thanks Trips

[CRSMP5]

yep ne ohio... you got 220 in your garage/project place? i gotta run to phily area soon...

a single "J" pipe, a flange to turbo and a REAL V BAND clamp set up and flex tube should get your pipe made up...

what i do is build a down pipe.. v band it.. then v band the other end of the flex... so if the flex fails.. can just change it.. not open up the down pipe again... on a mk2/mk3 i see no reason this "flex" cannot be made in the straight run above the steering rack.. then on the other end add in the "45*" to line it up with the center pipe..

there is so many ways to do this though... but i highly reccomend v band clamps..

2.5" stainless "j" bend pipes from summit racing are/were 35ish.. last year when i built my toaster one.. flex is 20 ish.. and v band clamps are a arss pounding grab your ankles 35 each.. before the 15 each on shipping.. i got so ass plowed... but the quality of the ones i got were worth the lack of the reach around... ive since seen others and mine were machined from solid stainless vs crimped crappy ones... crimped IMO will crack/break vs the solid style i got..

[bbob203]

man that looks good. how do you have in it? for all the piping?