RUNAWAY DIESEL!

[theman53]

$0.02 says Control collar stuck on its shaft.
Using hydrogenated oil by any chance?

I was talking with CRSMP5 today and that was the conclusion we kinda liked.

As I said before, I looked hard into it and I was not going to run Veg oil after shelling out 1,200.00 for my IP plus the injectors too. Bio would be a different story.

Either way I hope it isn't too bad for you and I hope that you can get it back together.

[sdwarf36]

$1200 is 6 months fuel cost. I could throw away a pump a year + still be ahead of the game. I'm only driving a diesel SO I can run WVO. If this is a hiccup in the thousands I've saved-so be it. And that appears to be the case..
 I called Giles to see if he could suggest something. He was thinking I had water in the oil + things got rusty. He said take out the main fuel screw + try pressing on what the screw hits and see if i can feel spring pressure -and will the piston move (it did). What I found on the end of the fuel screw was fresh brown "shmutz". (what the filtering is supposed to take out) Not old dried on crap or rust. I'm betting on the bucking and strain before I switched over to diesel shot some of the crud from the plugging filter thru the system.
 So I guess its time to flush things out.   Is that collar easy to access?

[fatmobile]

I think the shaft sliding back and forth, with the force of the cam plate behind it would break the collar free from the shaft especially as the speed increases.

 I suspect the flywheel weights or one of them is stuck.
 Pull the top off the pump and look inside.

 I wonder what diesel purge would do for a problem like this.
 If I did diesel purge it; I'd swap a normal banjo bolt in the output so crap could flow out freely, instead of the restricted "OUT" bolt.

 Is your CCV disconnected from your intake?

[belchfire]

Did it again on the way home. Pump is out and on the way to shop. Hot start problem solved itself but idle was wacky. I don't think that my engine will live through another time. I am in total agreement with sdwarf36 about the cost and the choice to run a diesel. Were it not for the "free" fuel, a diesel is not worth the hassle. Diesel now costs more than gas and the difference in mileage with some of the new cars doesn't make up for the higher fuel cost. Add to that the winter starting and more expensive parts and maintenance and it's not worth the hassle. 

[745 turbogreasel]

$1200 is 6 months fuel cost. I could throw away a pump a year + still be ahead of the game. I'm only driving a diesel SO I can run WVO. If this is a hiccup in the thousands I've saved-so be it. And that appears to be the case..
 I called Giles to see if he could suggest something. He was thinking I had water in the oil + things got rusty. He said take out the main fuel screw + try pressing on what the screw hits and see if i can feel spring pressure -and will the piston move (it did). What I found on the end of the fuel screw was fresh brown "shmutz". (what the filtering is supposed to take out) Not old dried on crap or rust. I'm betting on the bucking and strain before I switched over to diesel shot some of the crud from the plugging filter thru the system.
 So I guess its time to flush things out.   Is that collar easy to access?

Real easy once you have the pump apart...
Don't collect oil with shmutz, and for sure don't try to filter it.
What kind of filter?

FWIW, our 7.3 dump truck got a new pump 6 years ago, ran a ton of veg, and has only smoked a DMF and a couple pinion yokes.  It still runs like the day we installed it

[sdwarf36]

I tried using a mighty vac to suck the pump out-and then sucked some diesel purge thru. It didnt help. I also did pull the "out" banjo-little filter was plugged. The veg filter is a Lubefiner lff3521.
 "shumtz"=the brown paprika like stuff.
 My filtering method is collect in cubies-let it sit a while-dump into 55 gal drum for 6 months-pump into another barrel theu a 100 micron nylon sock filter-heat to 120* for 24 hours-sit for 24 hours-then pump thru a 10 -a 5 and a 1 micron filter into another barrel-let it sit a week before pumping into the car. This batch of oil may have been more crappy than usual-the car filter did plug sooner than normal. I can usually get 2500 miles from the car filter.

[theman53]

I am with you on saving money with fuel, but my time is worth something. I never got it down, so I don't know how fast I could do it, but I would rather do something else with my time.
Plus, my other motivating factor was with the amount I drive I NEED the car. If something like this happend it would hurt bad. When I lost my IDI I bought a TDI in less than 2 weeks because of this. I drive about 600-1,000 miles per week in my sales job. So at the min. I am right with you on cost of fuel for 6 months...I get it. But if I were going to do it I decided on Bio for me. Good luck to you and hopefully you get it sorted and this never happens again.

Back on topic: Your injectors and fuel lines all probably look the same as your pump. You may want to take a look at that stuff. If you do get the pump cleaned out, it may happen all over again if the lines and injectors send it right back in.

[92EcoDiesel Jetta]

" I called Giles to see if he could suggest something. He was thinking I had water in the oil + things got rusty. "

You racked up 100K VO miles using the same filtering scheme and had no problems. I assume you have not changed your filtering setup on the new engine and IP? So where did the water come from if it was the cause of your problems? One possibility is condensation from day/ night changes in temp. Not usually a problem on a daily driver because the condensed water gets cycled through as the fuel is burned daily. If the VO and diesel tank was not completely full when you had the car down for rebuild and sat for a few months, water accumulates and can cause problems if you did not flush the tanks. If you had clear fuel lines to the IP inlet, you would see murky instead of clear VO if you had a water problem.


"He said take out the main fuel screw + try pressing on what the screw hits and see if i can feel spring pressure -and will the piston move (it did). What I found on the end of the fuel screw was fresh brown "shmutz". (what the filtering is supposed to take out) Not old dried on crap or rust. I'm betting on the bucking and strain before I switched over to diesel shot some of the crud from the plugging filter thru the system."

How can bucking and strain "shoot" some of the crud from the fiklter into the IP?    The only way that can happen is if the VO filter was torn in the process.

[sdwarf36]

I never suggest water-that was Giles over the phone troubleshooting. Yea-I'm wondering what happened-the crap I saw was more than what you would expect to make it into the pump. I'll see tonite-off comes the pump + get to look inside for the 1st time.  Back up plan is put on my old pump-it had an altitude compenstor on it-I presume with just a fitting change I can make it work the same as a TD pump.

[R.O.R-2.0]

I never suggest water-that was Giles over the phone troubleshooting. Yea-I'm wondering what happened-the crap I saw was more than what you would expect to make it into the pump. I'll see tonite-off comes the pump + get to look inside for the 1st time.  Back up plan is put on my old pump-it had an altitude compenstor on it-I presume with just a fitting change I can make it work the same as a TD pump.

something along those lines, but not quite that simple..

[92EcoDiesel Jetta]

If your intent is to remove the  pump, have a look inside, then send it back to Giles for repair, then by all means pull the pump.  If  your intent is to try to free up the pump and get it running again, then do not pull the pump. It's less work leaving it on  the motor.

Let me know if your intent is the latter, I do not wanna waste my time posting a cleaning procedure if you're not going to do  it.

[mtrans]

What I found on the end of the fuel screw was fresh brown "shmutz". (what the filtering is supposed to take out) Not old dried on crap or rust.

I hope you didnt mix WVO and WMO see this:
http://www.biofuelsforum.com/svo_users/4038-injector_pump_blocked_gunge.html   

[jseeley]

Sounds similar to what happened to my Giles pump, but it happened within only a few miles. It would idle just fine, but would "run away" with any throttle. It would shutdown just fine though as it wasn't actually running away (feeding itself with oil) After playing around with the fuel screw and idle adjustment and a few calls with Giles for troubleshooting I eventually mailed the pump back and he determined it was the pump itself and re-built it again. Since installing it the second time, not a problem. (edit- actually the stop solenoid did stop working and I replaced it with one from Prothe) 

here was Giles diagnosis after I sent him the pump->
we have pulled your pump apart and found the problem.  it seems that the drive shaft bushings (bearings) spun inside the main pump housing for some unknown reason. the drive shaft was blue and scored and quite a few more parts inside the pump were damaged.  We replaced the main pump housing due to scoring and the drive shaft bore out of spec now. replaced all other parts needed to bring your pump back to spec and assembled it.

The pump I got from Giles originally was not "my pump" it was one he had rebuilt and ready to go and he took mine as a core. I can only assume the core he used for the one I got back had some sort of internal issue which lead to it's quick demise. Not sure if your problem is the same as mine, but just sharing what I went through. I was only out shipping costs and Giles fixed the issue.

[745 turbogreasel]

 "shumtz"=the brown paprika like stuff.
 My filtering method is collect in cubies-let it sit a while-dump into 55 gal drum for 6 months-pump into another barrel theu a 100 micron nylon sock filter-heat to 120* for 24 hours-sit for 24 hours-then pump thru a 10 -a 5 and a 1 micron filter into another barrel-let it sit a week before pumping into the car. This batch of oil may have been more crappy than usual-the car filter did plug sooner than normal. I can usually get 2500 miles from the car filter.

In my experience, some oil just cannot be filtered adequately.  If it won't go at  room temps, it's no good.

Read post #3 & 4 http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2218203
then dissect your filter.

[sdwarf36]

I never suggest water-that was Giles over the phone troubleshooting. Yea-I'm wondering what happened-the crap I saw was more than what you would expect to make it into the pump. I'll see tonite-off comes the pump + get to look inside for the 1st time.  Back up plan is put on my old pump-it had an altitude compenstor on it-I presume with just a fitting change I can make it work the same as a TD pump.

something along those lines, but not quite that simple..

If i install my old pump, its just gonna be a stopgap measure. The car is a commuter vehicle-I survived with no turbo for 100k. If i can just pull the hills ok-I'm not expecting much beside able to be mobile. Would there be any harm in hooking up the line from the manifold (boost signal) to what is a vent in the altitude comp. pump?