Done the governor mod, but I need HELP!!!(missing idle spring on the governor)

[adi]

I'l leave it as it is for now then while its running OK, and speak to my local bosch pump specialist and see if they can get hold of my missing spring. I need the O ring for the max fuel screw anyway. Just hope it doesn't cost a fortune! The yellow paint on all the adjustment screws was present before I messed with it, so is there any reason my car is missing the spring? Not many people over here mess with GTD's with them being so rare, so I can't just ask on the mk2 owners forum as no-one will have a clue what I'm talking about!

[R.O.R-2.0]

you can take the pump top off without disturbing any of the yellow paint.. so someone could have had it open and lost the spring (hopefully)

or else it fell off the shaft some how, and the spring, washers, and clip are all floating around the pump somewhere.. (worst case scenario)

[adi]

It was very clean inside my pump, and there doesn't seem to be any clips or washers missing compared to the governor pic on the link to the 2010 version of the mod. I just can't understand why it would have been removed. Hopefully the bosch specialists will understand what I'm talking about and be able to order me the spring in. I take it no-one else has this quarter of a turn freeplay in the splined shaft? It should still work OK though, as the lever will return to its end position due to the springs on the lever itself.

[R.O.R-2.0]

we all have that quarter turn of play. its how the pump works.. but that missing idle spring, you basically have no governor at idle.. i dont see how it idles smooth, or how it even reaches WOT.. i bet once you have all the correct pieces in your governor, it will work awesome..

its a night and day difference in power when you do the gov mod.

[adi]

When I put it all back together, I put the lever back on exactly how it came off and only noticed a marginal increase in power, however this could have been due to the max fuel screw wound in a tad more, as the collar was still on before. I was expecting a massive difference! It idles perfectly though

Is it normal that I had to push on a lever to allow the top of the pump to go back on?

[R.O.R-2.0]

i usually just take the max fuel screw out, then you dont have to push on that lever, and the pump top slips right on.

and it should have been a BIG increase in power.. not just a "little bit"

[adi]

I'm 90% sure the max fuel screw was out! Which worries me...

[trav1856]

Adi,

Believe it or not, this thread and your struggles are invaluable. Not so much for you, but for the next person that tries this. While it's unfortunate that you had to beat your head against the wall to figure it out, you figured it out, and learning by doing is the best way, so now you can be the one that says "Have you tried this? Are you sure you're not doing that?".

It all changes when you have that Eureka, "AHA!!!" moment.

[adi]

I cannot wait for that moment! I've made a post on the UK mk2 owners site asking if anyone else has done this mod and is missing the idle spring, but I very much doubt I'l get a reply as GTDs are so rare, and are usually ditched for 1.9s, or PD engines from the mk4. I'm going to leave it be while its still running OK and hope that the Bosch specialist in town can hook me up with my missing spring. Hopefully once I've fitted the spring and meticulously re-fitted it all as per the 2010 governor thread, it'l give me the extra power I so badly want 

[adi]

I've been to the Bosch specialist and seen their exploded view of "my" pump. According to their diagram, my governor should have that idle spring, but it shouldn't have an intermediate spring and a main spring, it just shows one long spring inside the cage! I would have ordered just the idle spring, but you have to buy the governor as one unit, and it isn't cheap! So seeing as it runs as it is, I'm going to continue my trial and error with getting the splines set up.

Would it be easier for me to just wind the max fuel screw in quite a bit more than it is now, leave the throttle levers off it, and run it, turning the splined shaft until it idles correctly, then fit the levers on? I know it sounds backwards but I think this way of doing it may work 

[R.O.R-2.0]

I've been to the Bosch specialist and seen their exploded view of "my" pump. According to their diagram, my governor should have that idle spring, but it shouldn't have an intermediate spring and a main spring, it just shows one long spring inside the cage! I would have ordered just the idle spring, but you have to buy the governor as one unit, and it isn't cheap! So seeing as it runs as it is, I'm going to continue my trial and error with getting the splines set up.

Would it be easier for me to just wind the max fuel screw in quite a bit more than it is now, leave the throttle levers off it, and run it, turning the splined shaft until it idles correctly, then fit the levers on? I know it sounds backwards but I think this way of doing it may work 

just get one off one of the members here.. that spring takes up slack. and makes things work right. your pump will never reach full fueling without that spring. and it should have 3 springs on the governor. 1dle, intermediate, and main.. the single spring governors are usually found in cummins pumps, and are not caged..

you may have to push the throttle fulcrum plate a little to get the pump top back on. i cant remember, its been so long since ive been inside a pump. and the last one i did was a brand new n/a pump..

[adi]

Well I've got it pretty much as good as I can today, had to adjust the idle by doing this with the cold start advance screws..



And this is how far I've got the max fuel screw in



With it set like this, the idle is at 1k, and it now smokes on boost, and pulls a bit better. When I first took it out it was unbelievably quick, but it was peaking at 25psi!! I've had to adjust the MBC, and got it back down to 19psi. I've resigned to the fact this is as good as its going to get 

[R.O.R-2.0]

why accept defeat?

im sure im not the only one with a dozen complete governors laying in a dish in my bedroom

and next time, you really should figure out EXACTLY what you are doing, instead of doing pump mods blindfolded, its not good practice..

i still have troubles with pumps occasionally, and ive had a grip of them opened up and taken apart..

25 psi is right around where it should have been.. does your wastegate not work? because the fuel screw should control your boost to a point, but the boost controller and wastegate keep it from over boosting..

[adi]

But in the UK, these pumps aren't as ten a penny as they are for you guys! It was very quick at 25psi, but thats about 1.7bar, I thought these engines could only handle around 1.2bar on a standard head gasket? It was running at 19psi before I was able to wind the max fuel screw in a bit further, and I expected it to raise the boost anyway due to the extra heat from the extra fuel...

[trav1856]

But in the UK, these pumps aren't as ten a penny as they are for you guys! It was very quick at 25psi, but thats about 1.7bar, I thought these engines could only handle around 1.2bar on a standard head gasket? It was running at 19psi before I was able to wind the max fuel screw in a bit further, and I expected it to raise the boost anyway due to the extra heat from the extra fuel...

They're not 10 a tuppence for us here, either, brother. I think the cheapest I've seen is 40quid, and that's a thrashed core pump (supposedly rebuildable, but I don't know that I trust it). runs a range from £40 for junk to £250 for medicore.