Just shimmed the governor.... I have some Qs.

[ToddA1]

Since I just resealed the pump, I figured I'd give it a shot.  This was done on my 1.6na pump matched to my 1.6na engine in my '81 Rabbit truck.  Stock exhaust for now, but I plan on building a 2.25" downpipe and exhaust.

(1) M6 and (2) M5 washers gave me 3.57mm preload.  I also turned the fuel screw inward .25 turn.  One thing I noticed is, now the idle screw doesn't really do anything, so I backed the fuel screw back out to compensate.  I also backed it out because it stated blowing black, and I'm not really into that.  I just read that rotating the throttle arm a spline or 2 CCW would make the idle screw functional, again, so that may be done.

Now the questions....
- does the max RPM screw need to be rotated CCW, as well?
- without additional fuel, is shimming the governor even worth it?
- if I were to install a 1.9 camplate, would turning the fuel screw inward be necessary or can the fuel screw do as much as the camplate?
- is there any downside to running a 1.9 camplate?
- can Prothe phuck up a camplate?
- should I be running an EGT gauge?

To be honest, all this may not even be worth it for me, but I ask because I've been thinking about a Giles superpump.... just to see what the hype is about, lol.  If I can do the camplate, and the shimming and get most or all of the benefits for lot less, I may give it a shot.

-Todd

[burn_your_money]

- does the max RPM screw need to be rotated CCW, as well? maybe, but probably not
- without additional fuel, is shimming the governor even worth it? yes
- if I were to install a 1.9 camplate, would turning the fuel screw inward be necessary or can the fuel screw do as much as the camplate? fuel screw should do it
- is there any downside to running a 1.9 camplate? yes, mainly, do you know how to properly install it?
- can Prothe phuck up a camplate? anyone can...
- should I be running an EGT gauge? On a NA I wouldn't worry about it, but that is a ~$100 gamble you choose

Hope this helps

[ToddA1]

Out of curiosity, what's the pitfall of the 1.9 camplate?  I've pulled the majority of the pump apart, and I feel 100% confident that I could replace it.  I don't have the equipment to calibrate anything but a simple R&R is within reason.

Something I noticed is when I cold start the truck, it runs rough for about 5 seconds then smooths out to a normal idle.  10-15 seconds later, the idle increases maybe 200 RPM and stays there.  I'm not sure if that has anything to do with the shimming.  It's about 55*F, today, and the cold start was not pulled.

It never did that before; I timed the pump to 1.00mm and before I resealed the pump, the PO had the pump timed to 1.40mm!  The cold start cable was never attached, so I figured that was the reason.  The truck always ran great, and started flawlessly in the winter, and never sounded like it was nailing or anything like that. 

Looking at the pump arm, I'm a bit confused.  If I rotate the throttle arm CCW, how will this allow the idle screw to become functional?  It'd move the arm's stop further away from the screw.... the only thing I'd be able to do would be to rotate the screw CW and increase the idle.  I'd like to drop the idle a tad....

-Todd

[burn_your_money]

Giles said it. I don't know if it is an issue with the cam plate or the rollers but a lot of them are chewed up. As I recall, I was told that it had to do with the ULSD and early 1.9 pumps. I think there was a recall on the pumps or something to that effect.

here is a current price list for everyone to gander at

Normal full rebuild of:

1.6L NA pump....................$650
1.6L Turbo pump............... $750
1.9L Turbo pump................$750 (only if core internals are good)

I can't go into details but it is not a simple R&R although many have done it and "succeeded." Others have not been so lucky.

[R.O.R-2.0]

Out of curiosity, what's the pitfall of the 1.9 camplate?  I've pulled the majority of the pump apart, and I feel 100% confident that I could replace it.  I don't have the equipment to calibrate anything but a simple R&R is within reason.

Something I noticed is when I cold start the truck, it runs rough for about 5 seconds then smooths out to a normal idle.  10-15 seconds later, the idle increases maybe 200 RPM and stays there.  I'm not sure if that has anything to do with the shimming.  It's about 55*F, today, and the cold start was not pulled.

It never did that before; I timed the pump to 1.00mm and before I resealed the pump, the PO had the pump timed to 1.40mm!  The cold start cable was never attached, so I figured that was the reason.  The truck always ran great, and started flawlessly in the winter, and never sounded like it was nailing or anything like that. 

Looking at the pump arm, I'm a bit confused.  If I rotate the throttle arm CCW, how will this allow the idle screw to become functional?  It'd move the arm's stop further away from the screw.... the only thing I'd be able to do would be to rotate the screw CW and increase the idle.  I'd like to drop the idle a tad....

-Todd

my car does this too, but not 15 seconds after i start it, it takes a minute or so. but its my alternator charging and then kicking off i think..

my car has a crappy battery, so thats prolly why it takes you 10 seconds, and me a minute..

[ToddA1]

I just read libbybapa's thread about blowing black smoke at wot.  I think I understand what's happening and how it'll affect the idle.  I may tinker with it in a few days.  Has anyone who's done this gotten their cars to idle around 850-900RPM? 

Since the RPM fluctuation seems the norm, I'll deal with it (at least for now).  I actually paid attention to it this morning and it's closer to 5 seconds.  I'll put a voltmeter across the terminals, but my battery light goes out almost instantly, and I know it charges around 14v....  if the alternator kicking in is causing the idle jump, I'd think it wouldn't take 5 seconds.

Just to clear up any confusion, I wasn't looking to install a used 1.9 camplate.  When I asked if Prothe could FU a 1.9 camplate, I wasn't referring to him installing it;  I was considering getting one from him for $35.  He lists them as an upgrade to my 1.6 pump.  I'm hoping he's getting them from a decent company, like the one his pistons are sourced from.

I have a pump that won't prime, so that may be the test subject.  It was full of varnished fuel, so I pulled the fuel valve and it's pretty ugly.  It needs to be opened regardless.

-Todd

[R.O.R-2.0]

I just read libbybapa's thread about blowing black smoke at wot.  I think I understand what's happening and how it'll affect the idle.  I may tinker with it in a few days.  Has anyone who's done this gotten their cars to idle around 850-900RPM? 

Since the RPM fluctuation seems the norm, I'll deal with it (at least for now).  I actually paid attention to it this morning and it's closer to 5 seconds.  I'll put a voltmeter across the terminals, but my battery light goes out almost instantly, and I know it charges around 14v....  if the alternator kicking in is causing the idle jump, I'd think it wouldn't take 5 seconds.

Just to clear up any confusion, I wasn't looking to install a used 1.9 camplate.  When I asked if Prothe could FU a 1.9 camplate, I wasn't referring to him installing it;  I was considering getting one from him for $35.  He lists them as an upgrade to my 1.6 pump.  I'm hoping he's getting them from a decent company, like the one his pistons are sourced from.

I have a pump that won't prime, so that may be the test subject.  It was full of varnished fuel, so I pulled the fuel valve and it's pretty ugly.  It needs to be opened regardless.

-Todd

no, my car will fire up and idle 200 rpm higher than normal, till i blip the throttle, kick the alt on, and then it pulls the engine down, then when the battery is charged up, the alt pulls less on the engine, and it speeds back up..

and FWIW, my fuel screw is wound in pretty far, and i can get my car to idle at like 3-400 rpms.. (stupidly low)

[ToddA1]

and FWIW, my fuel screw is wound in pretty far, and i can get my car to idle at like 3-400 rpms.. (stupidly low)

Yeah, but you're turbo and I'm sure you end up needing (and burning) the excess fuel.  I'm sure I'd be rollin' coal.  I'll mess around with the fuel and idle screw and see if I can find a happy median.

Figured out the idle boost.  It seems my glow plugs stay lit for about 5 seconds after a cold start.  I heard the relay click off and the idle increased.  Never happens on hot starts, because well.... you know the rest....

Thanks for the replies, thus far.

-Todd

[R.O.R-2.0]

and FWIW, my fuel screw is wound in pretty far, and i can get my car to idle at like 3-400 rpms.. (stupidly low)

Yeah, but you're turbo and I'm sure you end up needing (and burning) the excess fuel.  I'm sure I'd be rollin' coal.  I'll mess around with the fuel and idle screw and see if I can find a happy median.

Figured out the idle boost.  It seems my glow plugs stay lit for about 5 seconds after a cold start.  I heard the relay click off and the idle increased.  Never happens on hot starts, because well.... you know the rest....

Thanks for the replies, thus far.

-Todd

when an intercooler pipe blows, i bet my car hits 1800* stack temps.. you can make a cloud black as night without even touching full pedal..

you could probably lay a pound of soot in the air in about 1/4 mile with no boost on my engine.. hahaha.