New Engine - White Smoke UPDATED

[texaseric]

Well if the pump is the problem, I'll let submit a report on Customer Service at Superior Fuel Injection.  Giles has been great on the phone, by the way. But, then, my engine's still smokin'.

Here's my plan of attack. Will make sure I have a real TDC by checking the flywheel mark and that the piston on cylinder numero uno is at its apex. Have a borescope that might work on this. But will remove the oil pan if necessary (want to avoid that).

Will then check the compression on all cylinders. I'm having an adapter made for that out of an old injector since my current compression tester fits the gloplug hole only (and 1 and 2 glowplug holes are impossible to access due to the IP and length of the adapter).  Then leak down test with same setup.  The head and bottom end are both rebuilt, so if valves or rings are the problem, I'm kinda hosed.

Then the old NA pump goes on  if all that checks out. If it runs with the old rusty NA IP, Giles & Co. have some splaining to do.  I may try the pump before pulling the pan since I think the former is easier. Those pan bolts near the bell housing are a PITA.  

Thanks for all the advice everyone. Keep it coming.  Banjo bolts are correct by the way.

UGH! I like fiddling with this stuff. But the frustration level makes me want to return to woodworking.


--Eric    :shock:

[935racer]

Do you have the original flywheel on there? If you have a gas one you don't want to use the big (more visible timing mark) cause that is 6degrees before TDC. You want to use the small "0" that is to the right of the big timing mark by about an inch.

For the oil pan bolts by the tranny get a 1/4" flex joint on a 1/4" extension with a short 10mm socket.

[texaseric]

Holy flywheel, 935 racer! That may be it. I'm not original owner, so previous owner (or before) must have installed a gasser flywheel at some point. Found the small  "0" mark several degrees to left (or right, depending on north/south hemisphere) of what looked like an obvious TDC mark to the mechanically inept (me).  Hope that experience didn't gnar my pistons. Spent thirty minutes trying to get everything perfectly lined up before Daily Show time. Still a degree off when I tightened everything up.... Will try again before retiming the pump and putting the lines and injectors back in with another set of injector seats. These can be recycled can't they?

Will let everyone know if this solves the problem--before the weekend. Will send first born to 935 racer if this thing runs smoothly next time I turn the key.

--Eric

 :idea:

[935racer]

I did the same thing once, on my first diesel I ever owned, luckily there was no valve/piston contact. You would likely know if you toasted your valves on start up, my bet is you didn't so you should be good. Also make sure you shim your cam lock tool on both sides with feeler gauges of the same thickness, I find this is a lot more important with 1.9 heads than 1.6 heads.

As for your first born, I could use a employee here its getting to be a pretty hectic 1 man job. That or think you could wack, or at least get my 6 grand back from a lady in houston that stole it from me?

 

Really hope this solves your problem, these are really great engines to modify. I really doubt your problem is the giles pump, eventhough I build my own pumps I have installed giles pumps on customers cars and they are real nice, just not enough fueling for what I like :twisted:

[Giles@PerformanceDiesel]

that's a very good point 935racer, glad u had the previous experience
to tell everyone, especially eric.

please do not doubt my pump as there is no way the pump internals
are out of time.  I am very thorough and my experience is vast with
these pumps and i always double check that i assemble it correctly
on every pump even though i've been doing it for 20 years.

make sure u loosen your cam shaft pulley when u do the re-time.

pls let me know asap.

Giles

[texaseric]

Success!

Couldn't wait for the new injection seats. Put it all back together. It idled on first start (after clearing air out of the lines by turning with loose injector line nuts). Absolutely no smoke. Could have run it with the garage door down without killing the cats.

LESSON: KNOW YOUR FLYWHEELS! Even the VW guy at the machine shop didn't mention potential of having a gassr flywheel--and I asked him specifically about flywheel marks.

I'll keep everyone posted on the progress from here. BTW--this TD is in a 1981 pickup and it's going to be fast.

Thanks 935, Giles, Dr. Diesel, and everyone else.

For the search engine:  flywheel, timing marks, white smoke, timing.

--eric :wink:

[jtanguay]

Success!
Could have run it with the garage door down without killing the cats.

I'm pretty sure it wouldnt take long before they were "put to sleep" in your garage hehe

but anyways its great to hear about your success with your diesel!!!

[LeeG]

So, I have an remanufactured flywheel in the garage that I bought in preparation for an engine swap.  No idea what it is originally from.  All I see on it is a notch, no 0.  Is there any way to tell if this notch is truely at TDC?

Is there a way to accuratly get the engine at TDC without the bellhousing on?

[texaseric]

There's a special tool that's impossible to find. I made the mistake of putting the bell housing on and assuming the obvious mark was the mark. It was close enough to make me think it was correct. Better to confirm the mark, without the tool (forget the part number, but it's shown in the manual) by putting the transmission on when the head is off and have piston on Cylinder 1 at its apex.

Of course this is coming from the guy who screwed it up.
 :roll: