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OH Shoot, pulling vibration dampener... by hippiekiller on 18 Dec, 2010 15:42
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>:(Well it looks like the last person to attempt a timing belt on my jetta fully rounded out the allen screws holding the pulleys on...This is, of course, the last thing I need to remove to do my headgasket... Which way does the nut turn?
I am aware this is a torque-to yeild part, but is this a 12-sided nut with a cap of some sort on it ? (I cant see any threads) pics?
I guess I will first attempt welding some sort of nut on the bolt head to see if i can turn those buggers that way...
I love dealing with other peoples hack jobs! thanks for any advice in advance! -
#1 by hippiekiller on 18 Dec, 2010 15:44
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Also, whats the best way to lock the crank with the pulleys on and the head off...(engine still in car)..
theres no emticon for veryveryverymad.
Should I just try and impact it off? Also - what socket do I need for this baby, and is there an close imperial substitute? -
#2 by Vincent Waldon on 18 Dec, 2010 16:16
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Its a 19mm 12-point with a built-in shoulder and it's on really really tight... most impacts won't touch it.
Since you can't pull the pulley off you can't use the traditional crank lock... two options are
- lock the flywheel by jamming a big screwdriver or prybar in the starter ring teeth thru the inspection hole in the tranny
- drop the oil pan and wedge a wooden 2x4 between the crank counterweight and the block
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#3 by Wayland on 18 Dec, 2010 16:49
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Did yoiu try chiselling a small notch in each of the bolt heads, and turn them out with a punch? I ran into this same issue a few years back, and this method worked for me.
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#4 by vanagonturbo on 18 Dec, 2010 17:09
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If you have the tool for the CV joints, you can pound that in the rounded part and use 1/2 impact to get them off. If that doesnt work, try using a 12pt 12mm socket and pounding that over the outside of the bolt head and use 1/2 impact to remove. I know it sounds scary to use 1/2 impact on those little bolts, but trust me, it is better than a 3/8s impact.
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#5 by maxfax on 18 Dec, 2010 19:50
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MOST of the time the threads are not actually tight in the sprocket, it's just the heads against the pulley.. X2 on the chisel suggestion.. Or if that fails, if you have a small enough grinder I've cut slots in them that will allow the use of a big flat screwdriver.. Usually the grinding will get em loose..
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#6 by fatmobile on 18 Dec, 2010 21:53
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If you have the tool for the CV joints, you can pound that in the rounded part and use 1/2 impact to get them off. If that doesnt work, try using a 12pt 12mm socket and pounding that over the outside of the bolt head and use 1/2 impact to remove. I know it sounds scary to use 1/2 impact on those little bolts, but trust me, it is better than a 3/8s impact.
Yep
The impact isn't needed,..
all that hammering tools into and round them helps loosen them. -
#7 by hippiekiller on 27 Dec, 2010 11:35
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Thanks, guys! I ended up hammering a 6point impact socket over the heads and they spun out pretty ez...
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#8 by lloydbiker on 29 Dec, 2010 15:10
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Our local aftermarket VW parts supplier (AVR Import Specialties) has made what looks like a giant open end wrench, with 4 holes for the harmonic balancer bolts. It is about 3 ft long, and provides enough leverage to hold the crank.
I'm assuming you're dealing with an AAZ diesel engine. Do you know if the crank sprocket has been pinned, or changed from 'E' suffix to 'D' suffix (TDI type)? Once you have the balancer off you should be able to check. If pinned, you should be able to see 1-3 holes arranged tight around the center bolt. If you don't and the suffix 'D' part number isn't evident, I would definitely pull the bolt and sprocket for verification. Then, either modify the crank to TDI fitment, or pin the sprocket. These engines are famous for the sprocket loosening, destroying the key(
) and keyway, along with valves and pistons. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1598023/page1 will point you in the right direction for the pin mod, and anyone with access to a drill press, power drill, and decent drill set, should be able to do it. The particular write-up is dealing with the supercharged G60 (and there is no TDI type mod option for that engine), so don't go by the part #s. I don't feel that bearing rollers are necessary as pins. Just cut up some decent HSS drill bits and use the shank ends for pins, double or triple pinning the sprocket, as shown. Plus, using drill bits makes diameter matching a snap. A double or triple pinned std sprocket should be plenty strong. When I was a kid, I had a small two-stroke bike, with a taper-fit 10 pound flywheel, that would shift timing every time you 'speed-shifted'. We cured the problem by getting it on time, drilling a single 3/16" hole in the crack between shaft and hub, and inserting a small piece of 3/16"drill rod. Even when the engine locked at 4000 rpm, stretching the connecting rod, it didn't shift time. And NO, I didn't make a mistake, the D comes after the E. There was another post referring to this, and the respondent made the error of thinking the E was after the D. He corrected his post later.
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#9 by lloydbiker on 02 Jan, 2011 07:48
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The 16v and 20v 1.8 turbo engines have the same problem as the AAZ, as does the G60, and pinning kits are available for them (except G60).
Go to http://www.intengineering.com/Shop/Control/fp/SFV/32093 and search 'dowel pin kit'. Note, they only use 1 pin.
Too bad they don't make one for the AAZ, but then, it was never available in the USA.