Author Topic: Head studs question  (Read 5955 times)

November 26, 2010, 02:26:38 pm

funkaholik

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Head studs question
« on: November 26, 2010, 02:26:38 pm »
So... The FAQ says that the ARP head stud part # is 251-4701. 

ARP says that part # is for a Ford Cosworth Sierra/Escort with a 2.0L DOHC engine.

Just checking that these are in fact the correct studs for a 1.6 TD before I order them.

Help?   ???
Erik Miller
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1981 VW Caddy - 1.6TD 
2005 Infiniti G35 - Vortech supercharged, drinking E85
1967 Mustang - 390 4 speed - for sunny days
1970 Datsun SPL311 Roadster - hibernating...

Reply #1November 26, 2010, 03:25:22 pm

pyro7890

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Re: Head studs question
« Reply #1 on: November 26, 2010, 03:25:22 pm »
ARP # 204-4701 those are correct

Reply #2November 26, 2010, 03:42:26 pm

gnavs

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Re: Head studs question
« Reply #2 on: November 26, 2010, 03:42:26 pm »
seconded, that's what I got.

Reply #3November 26, 2010, 04:27:19 pm

Syncroincity

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Re: Head studs question
« Reply #3 on: November 26, 2010, 04:27:19 pm »
Correct. Motion passed. :D Works fine, last long time...
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Reply #4November 26, 2010, 05:07:25 pm

RustyCaddy

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Re: Head studs question
« Reply #4 on: November 26, 2010, 05:07:25 pm »
i think it goes like this:

251-4701 for 12 mm heads
204-4701 for 11 mm heads

Reply #5November 26, 2010, 07:31:19 pm

RadoTD

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Re: Head studs question
« Reply #5 on: November 26, 2010, 07:31:19 pm »
Get 204-4706! http://arpdiesel.com/pages/newproducts.shtml

220,000psi... 30,000psi more than the cosworth head studs! ;D

enough boost is when you have 3 dimple marks in the hood from the valve cover nuts..  ;D

Reply #6November 26, 2010, 08:45:31 pm

RustyCaddy

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Re: Head studs question
« Reply #6 on: November 26, 2010, 08:45:31 pm »
Get 204-4706! http://arpdiesel.com/pages/newproducts.shtml

220,000psi... 30,000psi more than the cosworth head studs! ;D

Nice...thanks.

Don't see engine code MF in their list but with ME listed probably would work in MF too?

Reply #7November 26, 2010, 09:59:55 pm

RadoTD

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Re: Head studs question
« Reply #7 on: November 26, 2010, 09:59:55 pm »
Nice...thanks.

Don't see engine code MF in their list but with ME listed probably would work in MF too?

Someone else will have to confirm that for you, as I don't know. I would expect them to work in all 12mm blocks, but I don't know much about the different 1.6 engines

enough boost is when you have 3 dimple marks in the hood from the valve cover nuts..  ;D

Reply #8November 26, 2010, 10:40:42 pm

rabbitman

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Re: Head studs question
« Reply #8 on: November 26, 2010, 10:40:42 pm »
All of the 12mm diesel blocks use the same studs/bolts.
« Last Edit: November 26, 2010, 10:42:14 pm by rabbitman »
'82 Rabbit, I put on a euro vnt-15, 2.25" DP, 2.5" exhaust, the result.....it whistled.

I removed the turbo, made a toilet bowl 2.5" DP, the result....it was deafening. Now it has a homemade muffler up front and a thrush in the rear, the result.....less loud.
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Reply #9November 27, 2010, 07:22:50 pm

belchfire

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Re: Head studs question
« Reply #9 on: November 27, 2010, 07:22:50 pm »
Two questions: 1) Where is the best place to get them from?  2) What's the  torque specs?
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Reply #10November 27, 2010, 08:18:07 pm

mystery3

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Re: Head studs question
« Reply #10 on: November 27, 2010, 08:18:07 pm »
Headbolts.com is pretty reasonable price-wise, don't know where they ship from or anything of their customer service yet. Torque seems to be up for debate.

Reply #11November 28, 2010, 09:33:53 am

theman53

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Re: Head studs question
« Reply #11 on: November 28, 2010, 09:33:53 am »
I got mine cheapest at summit racing. Jegs will price match summit and others. Summit is just closest for me, but they will ship about anywhere.
I used a metal hg and torqued it to 100ft/lbs. I did it in about 6 steps though. First I covered the HG in aviation permatex stuff, put the head and everything on, and hand tightened all the nuts. Then I torqued in sequence at 30ft/lbs then 45ft/lbs then 60ft/lbs. I then stopped, filled it with coolant, and plugged in the block heater for 12 hours. It got to 170 degrees at that time. I unplugged it and let it cool a day and did plugged it in again for another 12 hours or so. Then I let it cool and finished torquing the head on 70ft/lbs then 85 ft/lbs and finally 100ft/lbs.
ADHD??? maybe, but they didn't have that diagnosis when I was little so I was just a bad kid that needed a beating. BUT with over 4,000 miles and regularly 17lbs boost with the old ocasional 25psi boost*now much better limited to the 17* no leaks or concerns.

Reply #12November 28, 2010, 09:37:23 am

R.O.R-2.0

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Re: Head studs question
« Reply #12 on: November 28, 2010, 09:37:23 am »
I got mine cheapest at summit racing. Jegs will price match summit and others. Summit is just closest for me, but they will ship about anywhere.
I used a metal hg and torqued it to 100ft/lbs. I did it in about 6 steps though. First I covered the HG in aviation permatex stuff, put the head and everything on, and hand tightened all the nuts. Then I torqued in sequence at 30ft/lbs then 45ft/lbs then 60ft/lbs. I then stopped, filled it with coolant, and plugged in the block heater for 12 hours. It got to 170 degrees at that time. I unplugged it and let it cool a day and did plugged it in again for another 12 hours or so. Then I let it cool and finished torquing the head on 70ft/lbs then 85 ft/lbs and finally 100ft/lbs.
ADHD??? maybe, but they didn't have that diagnosis when I was little so I was just a bad kid that needed a beating. BUT with over 4,000 miles and regularly 17lbs boost with the old ocasional 25psi boost*now much better limited to the 17* no leaks or concerns.

well, i would hope you dont have leaks. i run about the same boost as you, generally 15-17 psi, with blasts up into the mid 20s, and im running stock bolts and stock gasket.. so why arent you making more boost? and using more fuel? make that thing blow some coals!
92 Jetta GLI - Black, 1.6D w/ GT2056V turbo..
86 GTI - 4 Door, Med Twilight Gray, Tow Machine..
86 Audi Coupe GT - Tornado Red, All Stock.. WRECKED.
89 Toyota 4Runner - Dark Grey Metallic, LIFTED!

Turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.

Reply #13November 28, 2010, 09:53:07 am

theman53

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Re: Head studs question
« Reply #13 on: November 28, 2010, 09:53:07 am »
I will hit 1,200F before I get to do anything fun. I can get to 1,200 with every gear and every shift before the engine is done twisting. I don't have it intercooled and I am hoping that makes it into a different car. I made 30 psi at short bursts before I had the wastegate set correctly. The car really isn't all that I wanted it to be, but it is reliable so far. I don't blow any smoke with those temps either...Giles pump.
Like I said I hope the intercooler makes a night and day difference in EGT. As of now it really is only a little better than my old GTI. When I had the pump set to where Giles had it is was unreal. I could only get on it for about .5 second before it went to 1,200F though. I realize I could do more than 1,200F but this is my daily and I don't want to mess with the engine for another 200,000 or so. That said I think if I didn't let off with the Giles setting I could wrap the EGT gauge needle over to my oil pressure gauge in about 3 seconds.

To OP, see my other post for your info:D

Reply #14November 28, 2010, 10:08:40 am

R.O.R-2.0

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Re: Head studs question
« Reply #14 on: November 28, 2010, 10:08:40 am »
I will hit 1,200F before I get to do anything fun. I can get to 1,200 with every gear and every shift before the engine is done twisting. I don't have it intercooled and I am hoping that makes it into a different car. I made 30 psi at short bursts before I had the wastegate set correctly. The car really isn't all that I wanted it to be, but it is reliable so far. I don't blow any smoke with those temps either...Giles pump.
Like I said I hope the intercooler makes a night and day difference in EGT. As of now it really is only a little better than my old GTI. When I had the pump set to where Giles had it is was unreal. I could only get on it for about .5 second before it went to 1,200F though. I realize I could do more than 1,200F but this is my daily and I don't want to mess with the engine for another 200,000 or so. That said I think if I didn't let off with the Giles setting I could wrap the EGT gauge needle over to my oil pressure gauge in about 3 seconds.

To OP, see my other post for your info:D

my Diesel is quite a bit quicker/faster/more powerful than my 85 GTI.. and the GTI has a 268* cam, intake, K&N, dual manifold and downpipe w/ cat removed, and a better exhaust system. its alot better than stock form, but my diesel still skools it.. and i know i dont hit 1200* in my engine.. no smoke at all, and my pump is turned down quite a bit. turned down enough that it usually wont put out more than 15 psi worth of fuel..
92 Jetta GLI - Black, 1.6D w/ GT2056V turbo..
86 GTI - 4 Door, Med Twilight Gray, Tow Machine..
86 Audi Coupe GT - Tornado Red, All Stock.. WRECKED.
89 Toyota 4Runner - Dark Grey Metallic, LIFTED!

Turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.