Video of First start up on a brand new motor.... what gives! (WITH VIDEO)

[westcoaster]

Seeing as he is in Terrace, It may not be as simple as running down to your local parts store and buying one....


Long shot but, perhaps you could badger your local Canadian Tire to rent you one. Even if it means they need to bring it up on the bus?

[arnold]

It dousn't take long to pull the cam and inspect your hydraulic lifters,if your crank sprocket slipped the pistons would hit the valve stems in your lifters and destroyed them,since your car was idling it could very well be the only thing thats broken

Allmost no valve lift also explanes the no starting and heavy smoke when trying

[jpedro]

ill have order a comp tester. and yes the cam timming was exactly where it should be and the injector pump dowel was in place and also the cam locking plate, the cam sprocket was tightend to about 100ft lbs so theres no way that slipped...... Thezorn  was here to witness all this so there is no BS in me saying where my timming marks are. im almost betting the keyway sheared off. when the weather allows us to do so well check that key way and ill rip out the cam and check for collapsed lifters seeing as i happen to have 16 extra ones for some odd reason need be ill replace em and try again, and where does the compression tester hook into? Gp's or the intjectors?

[theman53]

Could you guys post a pic or 3 of the cam, IP, and crank? Preferably when the cam and IP are locked in place and what the crank is doing when those are locked in. If the key way snapped it shouldn't be in time unless it spun around to near perfect alignment...which would be my luck. I just would like to see it since it seems there are conflicting info in these posts.

Also, you can get a comp tester and then adaptors come with it. I have one for the injector and one for the GP. Maybe others are different, but that is what mine is.

[jpedro]

sorry i wont be able to get pics, i removed the timming belt already and also the cam to check the lifters and there fine, and i attempted to remove the crank bolt with no luck, whats the best way for that.

[westcoaster]

sorry i wont be able to get pics, i removed the timming belt already and also the cam to check the lifters and there fine, and i attempted to remove the crank bolt with no luck, whats the best way for that.

This is on a 1.6TD?
Those aren't really "known" to shear the end.

As far as the bolt goes, brace the crank and use the mother of all cheater bars. I had a dickens of a time when trying to remove mine. Make sure you use a socket with a "lifetime" warranty....

[Baron VonZeppelin]

IF you didn't leave the camshaft bolt and sprocket "loose" when you set/adjusted the tension on the timing belt  - that would cause the crank to go advanced - and perhaps by the same amount you have specified.

Just putting it out there.

The crankshaft parameter always needs triple checking all the time since it isn't locked securely. Not to be taken lightly for sure.

A 1.6 will have either 16 (usually 11mm) - or - 1.6 (usually 12mm) in big raised cast numbers on the backside (firewall side) of the block.

[Mark(The Miser)UK]

sorry i wont be able to get pics, i removed the timming belt already and also the cam to check the lifters and there fine, and i attempted to remove the crank bolt with no luck, whats the best way for that.

If you can't undo the crank bolt, then I'd be inclined to leave it, as your problem lies elsewhere IMO

[rs899]

I agree, leave the crank bolt alone, but put some witness marks on the pulley and bolt so that if it happens again you will see the movement.  If you remove the bolt, you will need to replace it as it is a stretch bolt(unless this is an early 1.6)

[smutts]

Just tossing another idea into the ring, you don't have a lightened flywheel on that thing do you? If there is oil in the cylinder from the build, that could pink or knock all at once, might be able to stop the motor dead if the flywheel was too light. Unlikely though.
If the cam shaft sprocket is at 100 ftlb (eeek!) you sure it hasn't cracked then lost your timing? Some were sintered crap.
Or you just found where that missing nut went.

[wolf_walker]

100ft/lbs is really asking for trouble.  Clean well, use 50 or so, it ain't going anywhere.  But CLEAN mating surfaces for the gear.  People keep talking bout these things coming loose, never heard of such in hundreds of thousands of miles of driving and decades of owning and hanging out at VW shops and part houses, etc, till I found a VW diesel forum.  It's possible I'm just lucky, and/or just really really good. 
Was it still tight when you pulled the cam out or did you remove the pulley?


Did you leave the cam sprocket loose while you timed the motor the way the book says?  Or was it tight and the marks lined up?  If the crank is off when the cam and IP are spot on, I suspect install error to be honest.  It's not hard to do, at all, for anyone.  I can't count how many times I've put those belts on and I always, always, always check twice, take a break, and check again.  And the alignment mark viewed through the trans hole is sorta halfassed in my opinion.  There are quite a few small diesels with crank locking pin tools not unlike the pump lock, much better setup.  But it's close enough for a single tooth either way on a cogged belt.  I use an impact by choice on that bolt, carefully.  Clean threads and blue locktight and whatever the book torque/angle is.  The locktight is as much to make sure it'll come out next time as to keep it in.

[jpedro]

I did have the cam pulley lose when i timmed the engine. But today i did get the crank pulley off. Theres still a key. The pulley never moved so i think im going to put it all back together retime it and see if itll come alive. If it doesnt im going to pull the oil and inspect in side there. And when i reassembled the motor i used goober amounts of pre loob. Includding loaded the cylinders with it when i slide in the new pistons/rings

[TylerDurden]

Was reading this older topic and had to search the board to find the end of the chapter:

"The first motor decided to give up on life after me being a tard and leaving a peice of paper in my intake after painting and forgeting about it. enough said? well now its got a 1988 1.6L NA converted to turbo.... 

   It was a full piece of paper shop towel stuck in the #3 Hole and went threw it, and is partially wrapped around the valve but a good portion was stuck inside the turbo and plugged right up with soot so i figuree thats why the exhaust was barely making it outta the exhaust pip, and as far as timming issues there was NO issues with that it was checked many times over and over again. and all my parts i am keeping, i have so many of them now. more then i know what to do with. the only thing that is wrong with the other motor is its always had a hairline crack in the block right behine the vacum pump into the water jacket not a big ddeal if some one wanted to weld it with some carbon (cast) rods or seal it up some how but i have no use for it now. Thezorn and myself dropped in the new motor and swapped everything over and what not got it running and timmed it by ear but there is still some adjustment needed because the injectors still tick a bit so ill bring it in and get it done properly."

http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=26949.msg217727#msg217727


Props to the OP for going the distance.

[8v-of-fury]

Possibly like the 12th thread I've recently read where a RAG HAS DESTROYED THE WHOLE ENGINE.

Lesson;

TAKE YOUR RAGS OUT! OR DON'T USE THEM IF YOU HAVE THE MEMORY CAPABILITIES OF A GOLD FISH LOL

[745 turbogreasel]

What did I just read?

Oh look a fish flake!