Yesterday my G60 valve cover arrived in the mail and now I've set about making damn sure it's possible to run it on an AAZ head before I start drilling and tapping. Can I get confirmation from you veterans?
Not trying to slow you down but the first pic of your cylinder head it appears like there are cracks at the pre-cups and that could create some unhappiness if the cracks are in fact there. If the cup comes loose it will cut the head gasket and work it way into the cylinder then it makes one hell of a mess. New cylinder head castings are very reasonable, also solves your cracks between the valves situation
Hey buddy i still got that dd keychain for ya. Some aaz heads come with the holes machined for the traditional style valve cover so i would imagine you could get away with tapping them and putting studs in, would also need different cam caps since on the aaz it has the studs built in. At the same time some aaz's only came with the outer holes machined for the valve cover gasket to clip onto.
We honed the block today. This is going to be minty when it's done!!
gnavs!there you are!it's "fckreher99" from vortex.good to see you doing well, keep up the good work!
Porting is a must. Get rid of the lip you feel around the ports on the valve side.
Huge thanks to theman53 for sending me some main bolts. Finally got my crank back in. and here's where she sleeps....Hope to be doing some head porting this weekend but I may have my hands full fixing a rad leak on my super wicked awesome neon beater
...BTW your Bieber avatar is awesome.-Malone
I've been jealous of Andrew's intermediate shaft bearing removal/installation tools since I saw his pictures of them; I had an engine completely dissassembled with the bearings removed, but no good way to re-install the new ones. I don't have a machinist friend, so I took my micrometer and started hunting for something that I could modify using my limited tools and skills. Here's what I found: a 1 inch black pipe cap works great after just a bit of careful grinding. It has a body diameter that is almost exactly the inside diameter of the larger bearing; the cap even has a flange at the end that's a slightly larger diameter. First thread a short piece of 1" pipe in the end; it works well as a handle while grinding/sanding the cap. (I used a high speed right angle grinder with a new grinding disc so I could get sharp, square edges at the inside corner where the diameter steps up.) Then grind the casting marks off of the body of the cap so the bearing slides over it easily, and carefully grind down the diameter of the flange so it is smaller than the inside diameter of the machined bearing surface in the block, then drill a hole in the end of it for the threaded rod. It takes a bit more grinding to make the one for the smaller bearing, but it's the same process, and for $6 and about an hour or less you'll have the tools you need to remove and install both the intermediate shaft bearings.
