Coming Up on 500Miles!

[ffgb]

Well, I have approached the 500 mile mark on my rebuilt motor.  Just a few issues with my 1984 Rabbit 1.6 N/A.

1) Had to fix valve cover leak
2) Had to retighten 3 times the oil pan because the windage tray w/integrated gasket was leaking
3) Had to buy new heater core because now all of a sudden it is leaking, possibly because the heater core sat for 1month empty and with new water pump, a leak appeared because of the pressure.
4) Noticed oil in the intake manifold, I thought this would stop after the rebuild, but it is there, and my motor does not smoke at all!

Further, do I need to retorque the cylinder head bolts?  I have the 12mm ARP cylinder head studs.  I used their moly lube and torqued the head down to 80ft/lbs.  It has a fiber gasket.  I haven't been loosing any coolant other than from the heater core.
If I need to retorque the cylinder head stud nuts, what is the proper procedure, loosen the nut 1/4 turn, then torque to 80ft/lbs?  Or loosen 1/4 turn, then torque to 85ft/lbs?  Or do not loosen the nut on the stud and tighten/torque to 85-90ft/lbs?

Thanks!

[rodpaslow]

I'm with you - do you have to re-torque after warm and then after a few miles like the orignal vw stretch bolts.  I thought with ARP stuff that was all not necessary?

[Mark(The Miser)UK]

I'd  slacken and then retorque.
It's not, [in my view] about the bolt stretch, but more of the gasket squishing [ah  that dreadful word] 'plastic deformation' is better
I'd also torque to the same level, as it had been sufficient for 500 miles, and maybe extra torque might restart the plastic thingy