Copper anti-seize on injector threads? 1.6na

[morgoon]

Well for the first time, just a few minutes ago I pulled out my very first diesel injector

It belongs to (formerly) very rusty 1.6na I bought as a core motor for our 81 rabbit

I have been puttering around the engine all week, cleaning, degreasing and  religiously "marinating" every nut and bolt, especially the injectors...

With the injector, I took my time, tightening, loosen a touch, apply more "plus gas", back and forth, more "plus gas" on the threads...(3 more to go  )

Eventually the injector came out...sure did not look like it was ever going to, and when I first tried I thought I would rip the threads right out of the head, but just a tich to the right, and a tich to the left, douse in juice etc. etc.

I read somewhere that I should put copper anti-seize on those threads, is that correct?

Is it safe to put some copper anti-seize on the injector line threads as well (a very minimal amount)?

I hope I did right when I filled the IP with ATF I thought I read that on here somewhere.

I pulled the pan, and other than the oil being black, there were NO traces of any metal shavings, no sludge...it looked pretty good to my untrained eye, cylinders looked clean, no moisture anywhere...

This engine has been sitting for a very long time it seems, I hope to test fire it towards the end of the week, but first I have to change the timing belt and tensioner (that scares me)

My question is should I put some ATF in the cylinders to help me get a better compression check, or should I just use motor oil?

I could not find any Marvel Mystery Oil...I have never seen that before-do they sell that in Canada?

Thanks for such a great site BTW

[morgoon]

Ok so just prime the motor via oil pump and a drill, and that should be all the oil I need correct?

then hit the starter a few times for each cylinder...is that correct

Thanks for the heads up on keeping my head on my shoulders

This diesel world is sure differrent than a gas one

[Vincent Waldon]

My question is should I put some ATF in the cylinders to help me get a better compression check, or should I just use motor oil?

IMHO the answer is "neither", for a couple of reasons:

#1:  you want to know what your actual compression is, not a compression test based on artificial testing conditions  ;-)
#2: it's dangerous... given the high compressions your engine can actually ignite that oil or AFT and shoot the compression testor across the room. Several of the Bentley service manuals specifically call this out.. the "wet" test is NOT for diesels!!

(edit: Andrew types fast!!)

[morgoon]

My Bentley is in the mail...

Thanks again

[Turbinepowered]

My Bible is in the mail...

Thanks again

Fixed that for ya. 

The Bentley manuals for these older cars are very, very helpful and informative.

[morgoon]

Apparently I might have needed the bible, and the bentley

if I had put a dash of spice in the cylinders

[DieselBalz]

I just have to point out that this thread in most others would of ended up with someone calling him a noob and someone else telling him to go kill himself and do his VW a favor.

However here, not one iota of negativity. Just full on helpful responses. This place has become my new home since the acquisition of my EcoDiesel (still awaiting delivery, dude sellin it is still trying to find a car) and I just soak in all this helpful info.

I felt this should be noted.

Superb!

[Vincent Waldon]

We were all newbies once... and on one level or another we'll always be newbies !! 

[Turbinepowered]

This community is still small enough, and composed of all the "good" folks.

There have been occasions where this group of 'dubbin neighbors has turned nasty, usually to chase someone out who just flat out didn't belong. Either an arrogant, know it all SOB or someone trying to muscle in and take over or some similar low life, but those incidents are few and thankfully brief.

We may be weird, bizarre, and occasionally a tad insane, but we're good folks.

[clbanman]

Nickel handles higher temps than copper, which handles higher temps than silver, which handles higher temps than zinc.  While zinc has a lower likelihood of reacting with the aluminum, I don't think zinc will last in this environment:

LOCTITE® ZINC ANTI-SEIZE  750°F (400°C)

LOCTITE® Silver Grade Anti-Seize Lubricant is a heavy-duty, high-temperature anti-seize thread compound
applicable for heavy pressure applications. It can be used in high temperature areas up to 1600 °F (870 °C).

LOCTITE® C5-A is a copper based anti-seize lubricant which provides a shield against high temperature seizing
and galling. Studs, bolts, flanges, gaskets--all mated parts remove more easily and in cleaner, better condition,
in typical dry service temperatures from -20 to +1800 °F. C5-A can be used on copper, brass, cast iron, steel,
all alloys including stainless steel, all plastics and all non-metallic gasketing materials.

LOCTITE® NICKEL ANTI-SEIZE (28182 1 oz. tube) 2400°F (1315°C)


[url=http://www.henkelna.com/us/content_data/LT3683_Loctite_AntiSeize_Brochure.pdf]http://www.henkelna.com/us/content_data/LT3683_Loctite_AntiSeize_Brochure.pdf]
[url]http://www.henkelna.com/us/content_data/LT3683_Loctite_AntiSeize_Brochure.pdf]http://www.henkelna.com/us/content_data/LT3683_Loctite_AntiSeize_Brochure.pdf]http://www.henkelna.com/us/content_data/LT3683_Loctite_AntiSeize_Brochure.pdf]
[url]http://www.henkelna.com/us/content_data/LT3683_Loctite_AntiSeize_Brochure.pdf[/url]

Last but not least, remember that anti-seize acts as a superior lubricant during torquing, so you need to reduce torque values to avoid stripping threads.  I have another post somewhere that lists the coefficient of friction - I don't remember exactly off the top of my head, but we use a 20% torque reduction over oil lubricated threads in our manufacturing process.

Side note: not that any of us need it , but Loctite also makes a product designed specifically for spark plugs:
 LOCTITE® GRAPHITE-50™ • Highly electrically conductive, non-metallic • Highly electrically conductive in metal-to- • Spark plugs on engines
ANTI-SEIZE anti-seize metal joints

[arb]

LOCTITE® ZINC ANTI-SEIZE  750°F (400°C)

If your head even gets close to 750 F you are so screwed...  From another engine site ?

"There are a couple of ways that aluminum becomes annealed. One way is if the aluminum part reaches 600° F or more for at least one minute. Another way is if the aluminum is exposed to 450° F temperature for two hours or more. "

[theman53]

Side note: not that any of us need it , but Loctite also makes a product designed specifically for spark plugs:
 LOCTITE® GRAPHITE-50™ • Highly electrically conductive, non-metallic • Highly electrically conductive in metal-to- • Spark plugs on engines
ANTI-SEIZE anti-seize metal joints

If they only had something like this for glow plugs 

[Smokey Eddy]

I didn't read all the replies but sort of as a rule of thumb i always use anti-sieze on anything that is fastening two different materials in particular steel bolts into alluminum.
they tend to bind pretty good after they have heated and cooled a couple hundred times.

[Smokey Eddy]

Side note: not that any of us need it , but Loctite also makes a product designed specifically for spark plugs:
 LOCTITE® GRAPHITE-50™ • Highly electrically conductive, non-metallic • Highly electrically conductive in metal-to- • Spark plugs on engines
ANTI-SEIZE anti-seize metal joints

If they only had something like this for glow plugs  

is that supposed to be an oxy moron? of course you could use it on the glow plugs. it's the same idea.

And the zinc flaked right off of the bolts i used on my down pipe! hahahah it was expected.

[theman53]

I used the  ... and it is me of course I wasn't completely serious.
 
They really need different fonts to convey emotion better. For all those who wonder about me here's the big hint, Don't ever take me too serious as I love to help and have fun.

End thread interruption...carry on