1.6 cy TD bottom end 1.9 aaz head project

[jack's lack]

poly bushings in a diesel!!!!!!!!!! you are going to love that. It is going to rattle the fillings out of your teeth

The stock brakes are pretty small, and the rotors are not vented. I went up to the 16v scirocco brakes up front which are a larger diameter 10.1" and vented. Corrados had 11" brakes.
I upgraded my rear drums to discs too, but that was a PITA and I don't know if it was worth it. If you go up to bigger brakes, you will need to switch to the larger 22mm master cylinder found on MKII's and III's. If you put in rear discs you will also need new proportioning valves. I went ahead and bent all new lines and swapped out stainless hoses for the rubber and switched to ATE super blue fluid. VW uses a metric bubble flare, which is kinda uncommon, so you will not be able to pick up the fittings or the flare tool at Napa. It was a costly venture and like I said it was not smooth sailing, but she stops on $.08 now. (that's $.02 short of a dime  )

[NintendoKD]

Not the engine mounts, just poly bushings on the suspension, I didn't put it there, just ended up like that.  I'll toggle the in tank pump for oick up fueling, and for reinstalling the I/P.  I thank you sir, fro the brake advice, I have already had a lovely experience with the brake lines on this car as they were completely eaten through in some places.

[NintendoKD]

It is either the 78 bunny or an 01 MR2 Spyder , both will take a lot of work.

[macka]

I'll look in Napa in the am as I'll be there. Up here in Canada we have a tonne of metric tools

[NintendoKD]

I have a question about the cam, will it/they need grinding?  I cleaned all of the rust off, and am curious to know will it effect performance at all.  My build is geared torward performance, but in a way also longevity.  I want to do some car shows, and traveling, so I would love to know how the whole injection system works IN DEPTH, in other words how braking pressure, injection timing, nozzles, etc co-interact with one another to affect either performance, or fuel economy, I have to find my way.  I would rather have a nasty idle "like an old hot rod" but have the performance there for regular driving/spirited driving "probably more often than I would car to admit"

Kevin

[Rabbit on Roids]

when you get a cam for your diesel, that makes it lope like a built big block, you let me know.

because im pretty sure its fairly impossible to make a diesel idle like anything else, besides well, a diesel...

if it lopes like a big block, it doesnt run right. every diesel ive ever seen, both hot rod and stock, have nice smooth idles.

the 16V92 Jimmy at AF Dicks shop in his land speed record F350, it even idles fairly smooth for a jimmy.

i should take some pics of that thing for you guys. 4 sets of compounds, (FOUR SETS!!, thats 8 friggen turbos) and 4 blowers.

heres a link to some pics, but there really old. but you get the idea.

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/bville-cars-4/1292-2006.html

[NintendoKD]

I was using a simile to explain what I am looking for.  To show what I want to do, while I understand that it isn't possible to make it lope like a big block, what I am willing to sacrifice for response and power.

[vanbcguy]

Lumpy idle on gassers is because the fuel/air charge isn't in the right place at the right time more or less.  You don't have the intake runner velocity at idle to keep the fuel in suspension all the way in to the chamber through compression.  If you think about a massive big block with a tunnel ram or something, at idle how much air/fuel mixture is it really pulling from that intake volume?  

Big lumpy cam with lots of overlap doesn't help either since again there's so little velocity at idle you have a hard time getting any kind of swirl or tumble going on.  Remember on a gasser at idle the throttle is almost completely blocked off so there's no air rushing in behind what you're sucking in on the intake stroke either... Overlap doesn't work too well when the pressure in the exhaust is higher than the pressure in the intake!  Anyhow the result is by the time the fuel has left the carb, hung out in a huge intake and then barely been sucked in to the engine it's half separated from the air and doesn't burn all that well.  Hence why you end up having to run a crazy rich idle on a big block with a massive cam, massive intake, massive carb, etc just to keep enough burnable fuel in the cylinders.

Since diesels don't add the fuel till they burn it you don't have any of those problems.  It burns when it's injected, and the injection amount and timing is dead consistent.

Result is diesels have a nice smooth idle no matter how much you hop them up.  A motor ported out to flow like crazy with a monster turbo pushing insane pressure will make gobs of power, but still idle nice and smooth.

Not that it has any impact on idle, but you can't really run any overlap on a VW diesel.  When the piston is at the top of the exhaust stroke it's almost touching the head - no room to have any overlap between exhaust and intake without putting the valves through the piston!

It MIGHT be possible to get a bit more lift than the stock cam has, but I have no idea if it would really help or not.  More duration is pretty much out of the question, as are larger valves.  Best thing you can do is improve the flow on the head, give yourself a good free flowing exhaust system and a good intercooler - get the exhaust out and as much fresh air in as possible.

The great thing about all of the stuff you CAN do though is that your engine will still have great street manners!

[NintendoKD]

This is great , I do not understand some of the terminology , I need pictures.  I'm a big dumb Marine remember?  I could probably understand it if someone could break the whole thing down to me Barney style "Big Dumb Marine terminology" I never was too good at textbook explanations.  Not to say that your explanations were inadequate, it just isn't how I am able to easily understand it..... does that make sense?  I have yet to understand or find an explanation that answers all of my questions, or breaks down the terminology so that it doesn't look like another language.  I learned to speak Japanese in just one years time, I am sure I can understand this, just in a different way.  I do understand some of the fundamentals, but now I want the meat.  There are probably plenty of people who can mechanically build an engine from the bolts up but don't understand the fundamental principles of how it works.  I want to understand all of it, math, mechanics, the injection process, air fuel mixture, and how they all interact with one another to properly tune the engine.  No offense but any idiot can put an engine together, get the timing close, and make it work "gotta love those German engineers, they make it so easy"  but it takes a real man to dominate over Machine and bend it to his will in the way that the engineers truly envisioned, or didn't... if thats right?  I watch the hardest working guys of my entire life, slave over swapping engines in LAV's, and doing fundamental repairs, but cannot answer some very fundamental questions, such as, what kind of turbo is on it, what kind of supercharger is on it, how many pistons, where are the injectors, the static compression etc.  These guys can, however, make it run on human piss and get it going in a pinch "with their commanding officer on their backsides"

thanks,

Kevin

[NintendoKD]

Lumpy idle on gassers is because the fuel/air charge isn't in the right place at the right time more or less.  You don't have the intake runner velocity at idle to keep the fuel in suspension all the way in to the chamber through compression.  If you think about a massive big block with a tunnel ram or something, at idle how much air/fuel mixture is it really pulling from that intake volume?  

Big lumpy cam with lots of overlap doesn't help either since again there's so little velocity at idle you have a hard time getting any kind of swirl or tumble going on.  Remember on a gasser at idle the throttle is almost completely blocked off so there's no air rushing in behind what you're sucking in on the intake stroke either... Overlap doesn't work too well when the pressure in the exhaust is higher than the pressure in the intake!  Anyhow the result is by the time the fuel has left the carb, hung out in a huge intake and then barely been sucked in to the engine it's half separated from the air and doesn't burn all that well.  Hence why you end up having to run a crazy rich idle on a big block with a massive cam, massive intake, massive carb, etc just to keep enough burnable fuel in the cylinders.

Since diesels don't add the fuel till they burn it you don't have any of those problems.  It burns when it's injected, and the injection amount and timing is dead consistent.

Result is diesels have a nice smooth idle no matter how much you hop them up.  A motor ported out to flow like crazy with a monster turbo pushing insane pressure will make gobs of power, but still idle nice and smooth.

Not that it has any impact on idle, but you can't really run any overlap on a VW diesel.  When the piston is at the top of the exhaust stroke it's almost touching the head - no room to have any overlap between exhaust and intake without putting the valves through the piston!

It MIGHT be possible to get a bit more lift than the stock cam has, but I have no idea if it would really help or not.  More duration is pretty much out of the question, as are larger valves.  Best thing you can do is improve the flow on the head, give yourself a good free flowing exhaust system and a good intercooler - get the exhaust out and as much fresh air in as possible.

The great thing about all of the stuff you CAN do though is that your engine will still have great street manners!

Sorry, got this as soon as I posted.  I understand all of this, but the question remains, injection pressure, spray pattern, swirl chamber, the engineering has all taken place, but at this point I have to throw the original advice out of the window.  I have low static compression, larger precombustion chambers, and really everything is out of the spec of what the original engineers had in mind.  I don't mean to go all of the way back to the drawing board, but it begs to differ, all of the precursors for major performance enhancements are there, just how to make it all work TOP NOTCH.  For example, I was told that the rpm limitation was realistically set by the limits of the injection pump, how to change that?  Also, no one wants to use dual pop injectors only because they are difficult?  there must be some kind advantage or the German engineers would never have moved to dual injectors and if there is how can we manipulate this advantage if we are scared of forward progress?  Can I have a variable timing somehow where I can have retarded timing during idle, and slowly improve timing "non-electronically" as the rpm's go up?  How does the dynamic timing advance affect all of this.  The governor on the I/P there must be something else to it, or there wouldn't be so much confusion surrounding it, is this essentially what Giles does when he uses his expensive machines to calibrate and enhance the pumps *tootsie pop* "the world may never know".  I can keep em comin all day, like Sylar, in Heroes, I just gotta know, and my thirst for knowledge is truly unquenchable, ask anyone that knows me.  You guys are a big hlp, I came here for answers, and I'm getting them, I don't want anyone to feel trodden on here, and I don't wat to just USE the forums, I want to contribute, but as it currently stands, I can't help many with the limited knowledge that I have, and For that, I truly apologize.  I also apologize for any foul language or offensive behavior, that I may exhibit, while here on the forums, I am a Dirty Mouthed Sailor after all, OH, and if I offend anyone please tell me, I tend to forget where I am sometimes, I am truly a gentleman in disguise, and bear no bad ilk to anyone of different race, color, creed, or sex, etc. If you get the feeling otherwise, just contact me or tell me, and I'll set your fears at ease.

thanks, and God bless,

Kevin

[NintendoKD]

When I checked the valve thickness to confirm the part no. the thickness was 6.89 ish, is that too thin?  will it cause valve slop? the other newer head is after 96' and has the 7.95 ish according to the mic. is that acceptable?

[Rabbit on Roids]

old heads have bigger valve stem diameter (8mm). newer heads have smaller 7mm valve stem size.

[NintendoKD]

I know that, but I wanted to check to make sure that I needed both stems for both heads "I'm rebuilding both" one old and one new I'll post up in a while my findings from Napa on aaz component prices, the total for both heads is 900 bones dude!

[NintendoKD]

Ok, this will be a double post, that is, it will be located in two places here and in the aaz parts thread.  I went to my local Napa, and confirmed that they do, in fact, carry the Altrom parts inventory.  I priced up "for US sales" all of the components that would be needed for a complete head rebuild.  I will list the universal parts first then the older aaz head parts and then the newer aaz parts.  The idea is to crate a a database or cross reference for aaz owners/builders so that cheaper prices can be rounded up and options weighed.  I hope that this helps someone out there, namely me, if there is a cheaper route besides our mutual friend, Prothe then I'm all ears.  Total for the two heads would be 900 bones!    That includes everything but the valves, and the valve seats, springs, and retainers, as well as the keepers.  All of these are priced each unless otherwise indicated.  I ordered quantities appropriate for a rebuild, except for the precups, because I only needed four of them, plus freight, which was 28.99 for everything, came out to 900.78.  That is more expensive than buying one of the heads listed on another website, so I'm sure that there is another location that the parts can be gotten from, just don't know where.  Realistically, however, it is more expensive because I am buying for two heads, so $450.00, plus the $300.00 roughly that I spent on each, will put me right at what the other retailers want for their heads.  Call me a cheapo all you want, but my search is not over.  If you must have it, however, here is all of the reference data you will need.  need more p/n's?  go to the Altrom website and look it up, then go to a Napa store, or call, my guy was nice enough to print me out a nice sheet.

028109243E
     Tensioner $54.31
12/94-1998
068109243F
     Tensioner $24.95
1993-12/94
034109309
     Lifter $12.74
1993-05/96; 8 Valve
050109309H
     Lifter $18.74
5/96-1998; 8 Valve
028103391M
     Pre Chamber $18.09
Deflector
028109127J
     Timing Cover $99.07
Lower
056103419A
     Valve Guide $2.85
1993-1/96; 8mm
037103419B
     Valve Guide $5.26
1/96-1998; 7mm
028198012B
     Head Gskt Set $53.93
1993-1/96; w/o Head gsk.
028198012E
     Head Gskt Set $79.02
1/96-1998; w/o head gsk.

[NintendoKD]

okay, so I got some more info on the tranny gearing, and armed with the new knowledge I now know that I need to run an 02A with an 02J 5th gear.  I will be making gobs of power, and will use a lighened 210mm "as rabbitonroids suggested" flywheel, still not sure on the clutch, if I will be making around 300 horse, and god knows how much torque, what kind of a clutch will I need?