1.6 cy TD bottom end 1.9 aaz head project

[arb]

Got the block blasted now, as well as the new aaz head pics:

Did you blast the cam journals too? They don't look so good. They need to be smooth as glass or the oil film will not keep the steel off the aluminum.

On your block, since its so clean, I'd powder coat it :-)  The head too after you replaced it or found the repairs to be good :-)

[NintendoKD]

planned on getting it ceramic coated.  I did not bead blast the cam journals, they area bit dusty, I stayed away from friction areas "I know better" the journals, less the bearings, have some sort of cross hatching, looks like some sort of machining.  And the bearing look immaculate, after painting/powdercoating I plan to run it throught the solvent tank again to get the dust off of everything before reassembly.  I don't know if I need new pins in the pistons, should I just do it anyway?  I remember your experience arb, all of the stuff you didn't relace ended up going to crap   *vicariously*

[NintendoKD]

The cam journals do not have the cross hatching, the mains do, just for clarification. This head is from a later/newer aaz There is a subtle difference, and I can't tell you how I know, but they are different.

[arb]

The cam journals do not have the cross hatching, the mains do, just for clarification. This head is from a later/newer aaz There is a subtle difference, and I can't tell you how I know, but they are different.

You're right - the cross hatch where the main bearings go is from the line bore of these journals when the block it made, or if its blue printed later, by you'll need special bearings then.

[NintendoKD]

oversize then?  can I get them or are they illusive like 1.5 oversize pistons

[Rabbit on Roids]

Now I need school on the flywheels you gotta remember here folks, I am building my first engine and am new to this.  I have no clue what you are all talking about right now.  I plan on using an electronic pump, as well as a modified pump from the intermediate shaft.

so then its not going to be a true dry sump system. dry sump systems suck oil out of the pan from a hose, not from the stock oil pump.

and josh, i was just refering to 210mm flywheels. i dont think 190s and 200s are even worth using on these things. i know i was slippin my 200mm clutch quite a while ago. but the 210 doesnt slip. unless i want it to.

[NintendoKD]

so, 210 is the way to go, now I need a list of vw gassers I can steal this from  There are a bunch in the boneyard up the hill.  Just no diesels   I got my second aaz valve cover from Gee Bee today, as well as some curious looking silicone gaskets, almost looks like exhaust mani gaskets.  Thanks gee bee.  No, I suppose you are correct, it will not be a true dry sump system, at least not because I will still want some use from my intermediate shaft other than to run my vac pump.

[arb]

oversize then?  can I get them or are they illusive like 1.5 oversize pistons

The usual over-sized bearing usually refers to the crank journal being machined and they are readily available. The over-size I was talking about was the bearing backing and I've only seen them when I worked in Federal Mogul's research park making experimental bearings. I also have never seen anyone line bore the block journals on one of these engines.

[NintendoKD]

how would I know if they are? *scared*

[truckinwagen]

I am going to bet that they are not.

most people scrap the block before they line bore the mains.


as for the dry sump, it does not matter so much what kind of pump is used(electric, belt driven, gear driven) or if the pickup is inside or outside the pan. the main thing is that oil is not stored in the pan, but is sucked back out and put into a separate container before being pumped through the motor.

generally this is done with a low pressure pump to go from the pan to the reservoir, and a high pressure pump to go from reservoir to the motor.

[Smokey Eddy]

I am going to bet that they are not.

most people scrap the block before they line bore the mains.


as for the dry sump, it does not matter so much what kind of pump is used(electric, belt driven, gear driven) or if the pickup is inside or outside the pan. the main thing is that oil is not stored in the pan, but is sucked back out and put into a separate container before being pumped through the motor.

generally this is done with a low pressure pump to go from the pan to the reservoir, and a high pressure pump to go from reservoir to the motor.

what is the advantage of this?

[truckinwagen]

not having the oil sloshing around in the bottom of the pan.

the dry sump reservoir can be designed so during hard cornering the pickup for the high pressure pump never gets starved of oil, so no oil pressure loss common in hard cornering with a wet sump.

[NintendoKD]

I was going to modify the pickup arm in the pump so that there is just a screen "no pickup arm" and make a very shallow pan.  the oil lines would go to the res. then the pump would be gravity driven at the bottom of the res to send back to the engine "oil goes in the top then comes out the bottom"  But not before it gets cooled.  the turbo will complicate things just a little, but I think that I'm ready for that.  using the turbo pan I'll bend an angle just above where the oil outlet neck comes out then cut the rest of the pan as short as possible. so it will be angled kinda like the vanagon pan but steeper and much more shallow.  If I were an artist, I would mock it up for everyone to see and you could really understand what I'm talking about, my minds eye is a great tool but it's difficult to convey what I can see to others "usually complicates things and makes people think I'm crackers"

[NintendoKD]

oh, almost forgot, the 78' build will allow totally high speed cornering with the super rediculously low weitec's and the poly bushings all over.  I know nothing of mk1 brake upgrades though not really important is it?

[NintendoKD]

someone should seriously just give me a call and come out to see one of these weekends *illudes to something* "give me a hand maybe?" some advice?