the cold starts shouldn't be too unbearable but it does reach 0F here sometimes in the desert's of socal especially in the mountains, how much does a block heater help?
so bottom line, stick with the 1.6 instead of the 1.5 rotating assy. and don't even attempt it?
As much as I would love to defy the laws of physics and thermodynamics
"and you know i'd love to", I'm going to go with the experts here then. I will stick with the 1.6 displacement, and use the aaz head coupled with a vnt. Sounding better? There are alredy guys running this setup so not too difficult right? so now I can just sell the complete 1.5 engine, YAY! more money for go-faster parts
thanks again guys "I thought that there was a reason to start this thread"
Kevin
can I use the 1.5 with a block heater? I wonder? This car will be a daily driver to work and back about 5 miles total round trip "I got the car to be good on gas and to have some fun in now and then" I have all these young kids on base that buy a new mustang gt and think that they are top dawg, I want to show them better.
yous guys posted so fas that my other post is a little out of place it should be about two up
I gotta see if I can find this again, but in my research on my GM 6.5 I read a thread about a 6.2 with the compression dropped to about 17.5 :1 and crazy boost added.. The short story on this:
90 deg day with the block heater plugged in and shut off for just a tad over an hour it would not start.. Period end of story.. Since it was auto pop starts were out of the question.. I'd be curious to see how much pulling it would have taken to start it.. Ultimately he ended up with one of those push button ether injectors.. Fuel economy was single digits, but I guess top end power was pretty good.. That engine made it about 30,000 miles.. I suspect ether was the killer..
sooooo... no 1.6 with az head? bad idea?
A 1.6 with an AAZ head would be better.. The extra point and a half of compression will make a world of difference.. Plus you'd actually be able to get pistons for it.. I dunno if this had been addressed or not, but you;d need to machine notches in the 1.5 pistons for the oil squirters on a turbo block.. I don;t know if this may weaken the piston too much or not.. THe regular TD pistons would have already been cast with this notch..
can I use the 1.5 with a block heater? I wonder? This car will be a daily driver to work and back about 5 miles total round trip "I got the car to be good on gas and to have some fun in now and then" I have all these young kids on base that buy a new mustang gt and think that they are top dawg, I want to show them better.
Five miles a day round trip is going to
slaughter your engine. You're going to be running "cold" the entire time, or wearing the crap out of parts when you flog it warm on your way to work.
Your fuel economy is going to be horrible, almost gasser-like... or possibly worse, if you crank the compression down low.
warm it up, sunday drives, loooong, got it. And yes I did know about the oil notches, I have had this done in other cars, and if done properly "properly being a key term" it will not affect the structural integrity so that shearing occurs. I do also realize that larger 1.5, or replacement pistons are damn near impossible to come by and if so are impossibly exspensive. I, like soo many others, was intensely curious about the "non-stroked" rotating assy. of the 1.5; since these engines are smaller, they can attain revvs that normal "much larger" diesel engines find impossible, what could that do combined with the ability to throw a rather copious abount of boost into it? the lower compression would aid to engine longevity, and fuel economy "to a certain point" and high performance which is the shan-gri-la of performance tuning. The entire idea behind this thread was not to explore if this was possible, but to do it. It has become increasingly pressing, that huge losses in both performance and fuel economy as well as engine longevity are at stake. Since that was what I was trying to achieve in the first place, I will have to move on. In conclusion, is the 1.6 a better displacement and suitable combustion chamber size for what I am trying to achieve? I am at a bit of a loss to some of the math and/or formulas used to calculate these losses "thermodynamics I take it?". I suppose not all of us would need to take this into consideration when building an engine normally, however, this is an entirely different set of circumstances. Never was a big fan of applied math for dynamic applications, too many variables, too much speculation of a failed achievemant and no action on the acting parties part. I won't do it, not now, simply because I only want to build this thing once and want it to run for a looong time, and don't want to sink a small fortune into it.
Thanks again guys,
Kevin
I have also decided, that since I am not going the other route in this build, then I will, use a mechanical aaz head "anybody got one?" I will have to seek out the ways of tweaking this so that maximum performance can be had of course. I have been told these are easier to maintain, work on, and last.
I don't usually waver this much in my decisions, but...... I am usually more adamant about what I want to do. I want to listen to the little voices of reason on this forum "yous guys" for once
A 1.6 with an AAZ head would be better.. The extra point and a half of compression will make a world of difference.. Plus you'd actually be able to get pistons for it.. I dunno if this had been addressed or not, but you;d need to machine notches in the 1.5 pistons for the oil squirters on a turbo block.. I don;t know if this may weaken the piston too much or not.. THe regular TD pistons would have already been cast with this notch..
i wondered about notching the 1.5 pistons too, if it would weaken them too much..
I have also decided, that since I am not going the other route in this build, then I will, use a mechanical aaz head "anybody got one?" I will have to seek out the ways of tweaking this so that maximum performance can be had of course. I have been told these are easier to maintain, work on, and last. I don't usually waver this much in my decisions, but...... I am usually more adamant about what I want to do. I want to listen to the little voices of reason on this forum "yous guys" for once
mechanical AAZ heads do not exist..
sorry, my fault I am thinking about something else. It's what happens when you have
www.spyderchat.comwww.suzuki-forums.comthe HAMB
www.vwvortex.comwww.rabbitownersclub.comall on the brain at the same time, and I have about seven different projects, on seven different cars, on seven different engines on several different forums. sorry guys, and if you don't believe me look it up on the other forums I have the same screenname on each.
So plugging the extra drain hole it will be. 1.6 rotating assy. combined with the aaz head lets get started. I'll be doing some reading all day today on this forum from those who have gone before me. A lot of material has already been covered, thanks guys.
Kevin
i wondered about notching the 1.5 pistons too, if it would weaken them too much..
Do the TD pistons have some variety of reinforcement cast into them?? I though I remember reading something about that here at one point.. Personally I think I would rather take my chances with no squirters versus milling a chunk outta the piston... From prior experience, melted pistons seem to be easier on the block than say a connecting rod slamming into the cylinder wall..
just bend the squirters so they don't hit the skirt...won't cool as well but probably better than nothing. Or put a little extender on the end of the squirter to it gets up there. Just an idea though.