Rebuilding a 1.6D for turbo

[Hiho]

Hello,

I have a 1.6D motor (being rebuilt for TD) at the machine shop at present and have just referred to my bentley manual for the rebuild specs. Unfortunately my manual only covers the 1.5d motor. Could someone please post the specs for main, big end, rod end, bore/piston for std, 1st and 2nd oversize.

Im also interested in any rebuilding advice that i can incorporate into this build. Im looking at mild to moderate power from this motor.

Many thanks in advance.

Matt

[Hiho]

Also, i only have a 1.5D flywheel for this motor, will it fit or do i need to source a 1.6D flywheel and clutch? Will a 1.6D clutch fit inside a 1.5D flywheel?

Cheers,
Matt

[arb]

Sounds like a collection of parts. What other parts are from a 1.5D ? Is your block a TD block? If not, are you getting the pistion squirters ?

[Hiho]

Its a complete 12mm head bolt 1.6D motor manufactured in 1983. It is a non turbo, squirterless block. The intermediate shaft is broken and instead of sourcing a replacement from the US or Canada, I would like to use one from a 1.5D as i have one here. Likewise, i dont have a flywheel for the 1.6 but i have several for the 1.5. The 1.6 diesels and turbo diesels were not released in Australia, so everything must be imported or sourced from the 1.5 motor. Are any of these parts compatible?

So can anyone post/pm the rebuild specs for the bores and crank and rods? I need this information to order replacement parts and keep this project moving. I have ordered a Bentley manual for the 1.6 diesel and turbo diesel but it wont get here for at least several weeks. I cant wait that long.

Please help!

[jtanguay]

http://vwdieselparts.com/caution.htm

[burn_your_money]

Wish I had saw this before I sent your package out. I would have taken a scan of my Bentley for you

[Hiho]

Thanks guys, this will keep things moving. I have a feeling I will need an oversize piston set......

[Hiho]

The motor measured 76.66mm in the bores, so that seems to me like it will need 0.5mm oversize. The crank is yet to be measured.

Is there any additional things i should do with this motor while im building it? Is there a preferred range of clearances within the rebuild specs? Any tips for a new player are appreciated.

Also, i have been told to buy the thickest head gasket. I would rather wait and measure piston protrusion and get the right one. Any advice here?

As i intend to turbocharge this motor, should i install turbo exhaust valves? Should i use arp head studs? Should i ceramic coat valves and pistons?

Thanks
Matt

[Hiho]

I wasnt planning on installing the cooling jets, however i may be persuaded. I have read that a proper exhaust and downpipe, along with egt and boost gauges should be adequate to prevent overheating of the pistons. Someone suggested that a radial groove cut in the big end of the rod pointing towards the bottom of the piston would achieve the same result (maybe one groove pointing towards the piston either side of the wrist pin). Im wary of this as it will probably just spray oil all over the bores and overload the oil rings. Any thoughts? Is it possible to install oil squirters in a NA block?

The intermediate shaft thrust flange was broken off. The shaft itself was intact so the motor hasnt been starved of oil thankfully. So i will measure up a 1.5 shaft and hopefully use that. I will also use the correct thickness gasket.

With regards to the flywheel, I only have the 190mm 1.5D. Is this going to tolerate a mild 1.6TD?

Thanks guys!

[Hiho]

The head has fingernail sized cracks between  the valves. My machinist wants to remove the valve seats and weld them. Any advice on this course of action. He also wants to remove the precups and machine the head, then machine the precups so the sit 0.001" proud of the head. Is this necessary/appropriate? He has also recommended new valve springs. Is this necessary?

Some good news, the crank is ok and will receive std bearings!

[Zulfiqar]

seems exactly like my problems no parts at hand...

I would use some O/S TD pistons and use Toyota 3L-T squirters, Nissan SD33  - or near authentic BMW oil cooling jets - they can be easily installed if your machinist is willing to work his time.

rest is just common practice and measurements.

And that bore size is screaming for O/S pistons

headwork idea is right on the money - If Volvo accept this on their engines then why not on VW diesels pretty much the same with 1 or 2 cylinders cut off

[Rabbit TD]

Did you by chance did you check the protrusion on your old pistons and did it match what the head gasket thickness was?  What I'm getting at is sometimes when you get new pistons {which I just did also} for a re-bore they will also be a little shorter than the stock ones to allow you to mill the block up to .005 in. and still have the same protrusion.  Make sure you check your's when you get them.  It would be hell if you were originaly using a 1 notch gasket to begin with, had the engine bored for new pistons and when putting it together you find out it's too low and can't go to a thinner gasket and have to go back to the machine shop again.  My pistons were .005 shorter than the originals so I had them mill the block .005 in. at the same time as the boring and I'm at the upper end of a 1 notch gasket range now.  Motor starts and runs great with a new Top-line head too with studs and a fiber gasket.  

[arb]

Some people run heads for years with cracks between the valves w/o problems. I don't like the possibility that the crack could propagate into the head and cooling system, so I'd have them welded. Definitely measure your piston protrusion and use the correct HG.

I would also add the TD squinters. Interesting that the Toyota / Datsun squinters will work. I had no idea. That Datsun SD33 diesel is solid and common in the US on fork lifts, so you should not have a problem getting them.

I still call a Datsun a Datsun and a Lexus a Toyota ;-)

[ObscuredByClouds]

Measure protrusion and get the proper gasket.  You'll be messing with the "squish and quench" area if you don't.  Are you adding piston cooling oil squirters?   

I just got the biggest (3 hole) as recommended by giles. He recommended that I do this (lowering compression) to help avoiding breaking things from adding boost pressure/mods.

[Hiho]

Thanks for everyones help so far!

I have the following goodies along with a gasket set for my rebuild. Ive decided to add oil squirters and have a set of VW oil squirters on the way.

Valves, pistons, bearings, oil pump!

Any thoughts on KS vs Nural pistons??? Should i bother with ceramic/friction coatings?
The block has been hot tanked, crack tested and bored to suit the new pistons.

I have also removed a CHB coded 020 gearbox from a Seat Cordoba, complete with 210mm clutch and flywheel. The only concern with this is that i will have to mark the flywheel for timing purposes.

For fun I modified a petrol tachometer to suit the W terminal alternator, which i had to make cos we dont have them here. Heres a photo of calibration mode:

Big thanks to Reg Cheeseman for the article in the FAQ section!