Author Topic: Re-sealed pump- won't start now  (Read 3736 times)

Reply #15April 26, 2009, 07:58:17 pm

burn_your_money

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Re-sealed pump- won't start now
« Reply #15 on: April 26, 2009, 07:58:17 pm »
Quote from: "Rabbit TD"
The only thing I am not 100% positive about when I reassembled the pump is the small hole in the control collar .  I'm pretty sure I have it the way it was originally but would it cause a problem if it was facing the wrong way?


Yes definitely.
Tyler

Reply #16April 28, 2009, 10:26:50 pm

rabbitman

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Re-sealed pump- won't start now
« Reply #16 on: April 28, 2009, 10:26:50 pm »
What's the status?

I believe the stepped down side of the control collar goes towards the high pressure side of the pump, the beveled side goes toward the belt.

Quote
Rabbit TD wrote:
The only thing I am not 100% positive about when I reassembled the pump is the small hole in the control collar . I'm pretty sure I have it the way it was originally but would it cause a problem if it was facing the wrong way?

Yes definitely.


What does that hole do? I couldn't figure it out.

I know you said you didn't mess with the fuel screw, but when I did the exact same thing to my IP, I had the screw out to far and it wouldn't even prime untill I screwed it in. Then after it primed I screwed it back out so it wouldn't run away when it started but it would barely fire untill I screwed back it in some.

It might be worth a try. :)
'82 Rabbit, I put on a euro vnt-15, 2.25" DP, 2.5" exhaust, the result.....it whistled.

I removed the turbo, made a toilet bowl 2.5" DP, the result....it was deafening. Now it has a homemade muffler up front and a thrush in the rear, the result.....less loud.
Watch: AGENDA, GRINDING AMERICA DOWN

Reply #17May 01, 2009, 05:16:11 pm

Rabbit TD

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Re-sealed pump- won't start now
« Reply #17 on: May 01, 2009, 05:16:11 pm »
Quote from: "rabbitman"
What's the status?

I believe the stepped down side of the control collar goes towards the high pressure side of the pump, the beveled side goes toward the belt.

Quote
Rabbit TD wrote:
The only thing I am not 100% positive about when I reassembled the pump is the small hole in the control collar . I'm pretty sure I have it the way it was originally but would it cause a problem if it was facing the wrong way?

Yes definitely.


What does that hole do? I couldn't figure it out.

I know you said you didn't mess with the fuel screw, but when I did the exact same thing to my IP, I had the screw out to far and it wouldn't even prime untill I screwed it in. Then after it primed I screwed it back out so it wouldn't run away when it started but it would barely fire untill I screwed back it in some.

It might be worth a try. :)


Sorry I haven't replied for a while, I'm having trouble typing on my computer, it takes forever, messed up drivers or something.
  I didn't read your post about turning up the fuel screw until I switched the pump back to the N/A one.  I never touched it but I have some old pumps here I could cut the stop sleeve off and try when I try it again.
   I have no idea what the hole in the collar is for but I don't think it got changed but I'm not sure, but the more experienced people here say it is important though.  I have to tear the pump apart to see what is what with it.  
  I haven't messed with any fuel settings as I didn't want to loose the factory setting but 'I see now it's not a big deal and I have other ones to use also when I try again.  That pump ran great though before other than the leaks.  This setup now doesn't have much more power if any than the smokey N/A engine did which got way better mileage too and I have rebuilt Giles injectors in this one now.  I've tried 3 different sets so far and no difference.  I'm pretty disapointed with this whole damn project at this point and I don't think the turbo I had built is as good as a stock one let alone a stage 1 upgrade, 6 lbs. max so far but no smoke though.

Reply #18May 01, 2009, 05:23:44 pm

rabbitman

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Re-sealed pump- won't start now
« Reply #18 on: May 01, 2009, 05:23:44 pm »
Quote
I have no idea what the hole in the collar is for but I don't think it got changed but I'm not sure, but the more experienced people here say it is important though. I have to tear the pump apart to see what is what with it.


Quote
I believe the stepped down side of the control collar goes towards the high pressure side of the pump, the beveled side goes toward the belt.


You might be able to see the collar with just the top off.
'82 Rabbit, I put on a euro vnt-15, 2.25" DP, 2.5" exhaust, the result.....it whistled.

I removed the turbo, made a toilet bowl 2.5" DP, the result....it was deafening. Now it has a homemade muffler up front and a thrush in the rear, the result.....less loud.
Watch: AGENDA, GRINDING AMERICA DOWN

Reply #19May 01, 2009, 06:01:43 pm

Rabbit TD

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Re-sealed pump- won't start now
« Reply #19 on: May 01, 2009, 06:01:43 pm »
I'm gonna rip it apart tomorrow again. The way it shot fuel spinning it with the drill in the vise made me feel pretty good at the time and that it was fine and would fire right up and I already tried the bypassing the fuel filter with a can of fuel at the pump trick and different timing settings but never tried the fuel screw, wish I had before I took it off.

Reply #20May 02, 2009, 06:25:51 pm

Rabbit TD

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Re-sealed pump- won't start now
« Reply #20 on: May 02, 2009, 06:25:51 pm »
Quote from: "Rabbit TD"
Quote from: "rabbitman"
What's the status?

I believe the stepped down side of the control collar goes towards the high pressure side of the pump, the beveled side goes toward the belt.

Quote
Rabbit TD wrote:
The only thing I am not 100% positive about when I reassembled the pump is the small hole in the control collar . I'm pretty sure I have it the way it was originally but would it cause a problem if it was facing the wrong way?

Yes definitely.


What does that hole do? I couldn't figure it out.

I know you said you didn't mess with the fuel screw, but when I did the exact same thing to my IP, I had the screw out to far and it wouldn't even prime untill I screwed it in. Then after it primed I screwed it back out so it wouldn't run away when it started but it would barely fire untill I screwed back it in some.

It might be worth a try. :)


Sorry I haven't replied for a while, I'm having trouble typing on my computer, it takes forever, messed up drivers or something.
  I didn't read your post about turning up the fuel screw until I switched the pump back to the N/A one.  I never touched it but I have some old pumps here I could cut the stop sleeve off and try when I try it again.
   I have no idea what the hole in the collar is for but I don't think it got changed but I'm not sure, but the more experienced people here say it is important though.  I have to tear the pump apart to see what is what with it.  
  I haven't messed with any fuel settings as I didn't want to loose the factory setting but 'I see now it's not a big deal and I have other ones to use also when I try again.  That pump ran great though before other than the leaks.  This setup now doesn't have much more power if any than the smokey N/A engine did which got way better mileage too and I have rebuilt Giles injectors in this one now.  I've tried 3 different sets so far and no difference.  I'm pretty disapointed with this whole damn project at this point and I don't think the turbo I had built is as good as a stock one let alone a stage 1 upgrade, 6 lbs. max so far but no smoke though.


I took the T/D pump apart today to see if I had assembled something wrong.  I suspected the control collar but it was right with the little hole facing the front or drive side of the pump. I don't know what the hole is for as it isn't drilled through anywhere else I can see.  I guess it's just an indicator mark.   The hole at the top of the collar for the governor is not centered in the collar thicknesswise though, I mic'ed it and it looks like .030 difference one side compared to the other measuring from the edge of the top hole which would change the position of something,  I guess that's what the hole if for.  I think that possibly the lever for the LDA might not have been sitting in the right place when I put the top on but other than that all was good.  The LDA works fine and the pin is in the original position from the wear mark on it.  The vane pump works good, I had the pump down to just the shaft in the pump and put a short hose on the inlet fitting with the other end in a container of fuel and just turned it spinning it with my fingers clockwise and it sucked the fuel right up and out the hole inside.
   Everything was clear and clean so I guess I'm gonna put it back together again paying closer attention to the LDA lever this time if in fact it was wrong which I'm not sure.  I will also have a fuel screw that I can turn in this time also.  I really don't see anything wrong and like I said before it did shoot fuel real good in the vice before.  
     Any other suggestions would be appreciated.  I will post back when I try it the next time, probably next Saturday.  Thanks for all your advice :)