Clutched pulley

[dieselsmoke]

Once this modification is done, do you still need to fix the crank pulley to prevent the key from being stripped or will this upgrade prevent that from happening?

[lloydbiker]

Here's what I'm planning to do, since I don't have the spline tool, or access to it ('97 AAZ w/AC).
 My alt has a T-50 recess in the shaft, so I plan to use my 3/8" impact tool to loosen/remove the retaining nut (turn shaft CW, while holding nut). Note: measure offset of original pulley, to ensure the replacement fits properly. It might even be wise to 'clearance' the shaft to start with. Fit new pulley hand tight and verify offset. Use a 'strap wrench' as if trying to turn pulley CW ( the way it drives), set impact tool (or drill/driver) for CCW, (moderate torque), and tighten. This should tighten the pulley sufficiently to keep it in place. The spline tool will be required, should you have to remove the pulley. You might want to check with your local dealer or alternator rebuilder, to see if they have the spline tool, in case you have to remove the pulley to clearance the shaft, as noted by Libbybapa.

[ryanp]

I've got a complete TDI clutched alternator, should i swap that into my IDI engine?

How exactly do these clutches help the strain?

Ryan

[lloydbiker]

On one alternator, to which I added the clutch pulley, I needed to clearance the shaft of the alternator just past the threads another 1/8" in order for the pulley to properly seat against the step in the shaft.  It was not hard to do.  You will also need the special spline tool that allows you to loosen and tighten the pulley.  

Just how exactly did you 'Clearance' the shaft? Spin the shaft CW while holding a file against it?

[lloydbiker]

Any estimate of width x depth removed? Does it take you right up to the shoulder? I can see where you would have to have the spline tool to remove the freewheel pulley, but I think my method of tightening it would work fine. The problem would occur if you had to remove it for further clearancing.

[lloydbiker]

So, what you're doing is allowing the pulley threads to travel beyond the shaft threading, so the pulley will seat properly?

[lloydbiker]

Should be easy. Use the inside tips of a vernier caliper to measure the threads of the pulley and the outside tips to ensure the shaft is slightly smaller all the way to the shoulder.

[lloydbiker]

OK, now I understand. It's just a matter of how far they go, not that they need to go all the way, and some go farther than others. Easy to correct, if one has the correct threading die.

[lloydbiker]

Now that I understand how it goes together, it should be easy to check with a depth guage, and clearance before before fitting, if required. You've only had one that needed modification?