1.6 td, Need ARP studs with T2 Turbo?

[Familydiesel]

I have an 85 1.6 td out of a Jetta, and am going to put it into my 1980 pickup.  The engine has about 280K on it and I want to pull the head and look at the internals before I put it in the caddy.  I bought the motor that was already pulled from the car, so don't know its condition.  

When I pull the head, should I replace the 12mm bolts with ARP Studs?  Where can I get the studs reasonably?
I am going to be using a T2 turbo and possibly running up the boost to around 12psi or so.  
Do the 12mm bolts hold fine for moderate boost?  

Also, any counsel for what to look for in weaknesses or things to replace, clean in order to have a motor that is reliable and tighter?  
If I need to, I will replace rings, bearings, seals and have the head rebuilt.  Any other recommendations?  
Thanks,
Greg
 

[jtanguay]

if you're removing the head anyway, you should plug the oil drain, and install a 1.9 metal head gasket + arp studs.  that way you're almost certain to avoid future problems.

i think the stock head bolts are just fine for the fiber gaskets, and the arp studs will only give marginal improvements in this scenario.  at least if you go this route, you won't have to buy new head bolts when the head gasket goes.

while you have the head off, don't forget to get it checked for straightness, and maybe pressure tested as well.  if its even the slightest off, it will cause sealing issues, and WILL go on you down the road (could last a couple years though) if you use the fiber gasket.

[Smokey Eddy]

I REALLY REALLY over paid for my head studs and they cost me about 150$ CAD. I went through way too many middle men. (never ever go to a parts store if you can avoid it)

so that means that i need to change the HG how many times?    6 times? for them to be worth it?


but they hold the head down better and should provide longer HG life and handle higher boost pressures. That is the ONLY way i can merit spending so much freakin money on them. I just need to boycott that store i used to go to.

[Familydiesel]

Well, thanks for the tips.  Where could I get the ARP studs cheeper?  

If I use the metal gasket, and I plug the oil return hole, how does the oil return?  I have read some threads about different guys using different things to plug the hole, but I didn't read if they worked.  Do you know of a thread that details the plug and one that is fullproof?  
Greg

[jtanguay]

Well, thanks for the tips.  Where could I get the ARP studs cheeper?  

If I use the metal gasket, and I plug the oil return hole, how does the oil return?  I have read some threads about different guys using different things to plug the hole, but I didn't read if they worked.  Do you know of a thread that details the plug and one that is fullproof?  
Greg

there was a thread just a little while back that detailed how to get it done.  you can 'simply' tap the hole to accept a plug, and then tighten it down till its recessed.  apparently its an unecessary drain, and will not cause you any problems.  going this route is a really good idea if you're mechanically inclined.  that way you can boost up to 20 psi knowing that you're ok.  i boosted my old 1.6TD with the metal head gasket and head bolts all the time to 20+ psi.  no problems, except it did like to burn oil at those pressures  :lol:

[Familydiesel]

What year metal gasket would I buy?  I noticed in the PartsPlace catelog there are different numbers for different years of TDI.  I'll try to find the thread unless you or someone else knows it off-hand.  
Thanks,
Greg

[jtanguay]

What year metal gasket would I buy?  I noticed in the PartsPlace catelog there are different numbers for different years of TDI.  I'll try to find the thread unless you or someone else knows it off-hand.  
Thanks,
Greg

do not buy for TDI.  buy for 1.9 AAZ engine.  the AAZ engine was never sold in the states (in production vehicles) but it shouldn't be hard to order the AAZ head gasket.  

the different part numbers will be for the different thicknesses, which are selected by measuring the piston protrusion (its important, and always use the highest protruding piston!)

chances are though, if you remove a 2 notch HG, you can use a 2 notch AAZ.  i would only go through the hassle of measuring protrusion if i pulled off a 3 notch HG just to make sure.

[Familydiesel]

Ok, thanks.  I'll look into the head gasket.  I'll try to find the thread for the plug.  
Greg

[Luckypabst]

there was a thread just a little while back that detailed how to get it done.  you can 'simply' tap the hole to accept a plug, and then tighten it down till its recessed.  

This remedy is for using a hydraulic head on a mechanical block and not relevant to the question.

You need to seal the second oil passage in the head gasket, between cylinders 1 and 2 to contain the coolant present in that area on a mechanical engine. Partsgeek.com has the gaskets at about $35 a piece.

Also, I'd toss the Partsplace catalog and not look back.

Chris

[53 willys]

or you can spend more...$140 and get a direct drop in MLS head gaskets for your mech block and head....no more worries.
I have about 1000miles on my set-up and been boosting 20psi.
just one more option..


BTW ARP Studs too......

[burn_your_money]

At 12 psi I'd run stock bolts and the stock headgasket. Before yanking the head do a leakdown test so you'll know if you need to lap any of the valves or do some ring work.

[Luckypabst]

I think this is the thread JT was referring to:

http://vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=17405

Andrew

Ah - I knew there was something out there that I was missing.

Chris

[andy2]

My old 1.6 TD made 125hp with the k24 at 23 psi and intercooled,way overfueled.This was with stock headgasket and bolts.The gasket was leaking at approx 115hp.As longs as the head is flat and you don't exceed 100hp you should be ok with stock parts.

[Familydiesel]

Ok, thanks guys.  I appreciate the counsel.  
One other question.  What kind of h.p. difference can I expect between the T2 turbo and the K24?  I have both, and have been leaning toward installing the T2 (just a tade smaller than the K14), since I hear it is good for lower/midrange power and quicker spool.  

What advantage would a K24 have?  

Which would have the greater h.p. using stock fuel settings?  Did I understand right, that the GTD's came with a k14 and were getting more h.p. over their USA k24 standard 1.6 td?  How did they get more power?

Is adjusting the fuel metering the best way to gain more power?  How much econonmy is lost through these adjustments?  

Thanks,
Greg

[jtanguay]

Ok, thanks guys.  I appreciate the counsel.  
One other question.  What kind of h.p. difference can I expect between the T2 turbo and the K24?  I have both, and have been leaning toward installing the T2 (just a tade smaller than the K14), since I hear it is good for lower/midrange power and quicker spool.  

What advantage would a K24 have?  

Which would have the greater h.p. using stock fuel settings?  Did I understand right, that the GTD's came with a k14 and were getting more h.p. over their USA k24 standard 1.6 td?  How did they get more power?

Is adjusting the fuel metering the best way to gain more power?  How much econonmy is lost through these adjustments?  

Thanks,
Greg

the GTD came with an intercooler, which allows for a denser intake charge, more air = more fuel = more power.

if you had a power chart from the GTD, you would notice more low end torque than the 1.6TD with K24/T3 turbo's.  it all depends on what you want.  the smaller turbo is great for zippy driving and response, but won't give you the flow of the larger turbo's.