Author Topic: Sloooow twincharge project (Read 16124 times)

truckinwagen · « **Reply #30 on:** February 12, 2009, 01:54:25 pm »

no more progress yet, I have been busy pulling parts off a free car for my friend before it goes to the crusher, we are turboing his 8valve gasser in his GTI.

I got a crossflow head and all of the engine wiring/ECU for him.

I figure its the least I can do for him since my car is sitting in his shop right now.

but I will try to get the head ready to go on this weekend

truckinwagen · « **Reply #31 on:** February 25, 2009, 04:07:46 pm »

got the head back together, it is a piece of junk and I am only going to run it until I get a new one rebuild(this time hydro to match my block)

I am not re-lashing the valves as I hope to be running this head for less than three months, the lash is not bad, but will be loud until I get the new head put together.

this weekend I will finish plugging the extra holes in the gasser intake and get the head and manifolds installed.

I have the injection pump and pulley at a machine shop to enlarge the tapered bore to fit on the Cummins pump, gonna cost $160, which is gonna hurt(I am already having trouble keeping gas in my wife's car) but there doesn't seem to be any way around it.

Rabbit TD · « **Reply #32 on:** February 25, 2009, 07:11:03 pm »

I wouldn't be too quick to condem those NAPA seals yet, most likely the white material is teflon and they do have a spring around them. Perfect Circle used to make those type of seals and they worked very well, especially on Chevrolet motors that only used that little O-ring.

truckinwagen · « **Reply #33 on:** February 25, 2009, 07:19:33 pm »

yes they are teflon, but the problem is that the inner diameter is smaller than the valve stem, and the rigid tendency of teflon means that they got kinda mangled installing them, they will still probably seal pretty good, but they were a real pain to install.

in the future I will do what I can to get the rubber ones instead

BlueMule · « **Reply #34 on:** February 26, 2009, 03:56:00 am »

Just a tip, the valve seals you are using from Napa are Teflon. Two drawbacks as opposed to the stock, you really need a special tool to install them as they are usually very tight and not as flexible as the factory seals. Also while they are very slippery and under high stress hold up far better than any rubber seals, they will "leak" more oil into the cyls.

Unfortunately you only had one source of parts and you really, really needed them NOW. I can't tell you how many times this has happened to me, last minute, hurry up, oh just make it work. Great project and can't wait to see the finished product.

truckinwagen · « **Reply #35 on:** February 26, 2009, 08:11:31 am »

yeah, I am getting a hydro head from a guy here on the forum, which I ill take my time rebuilding, doing it right.
the head I have now is just a "get the thing back on the road" kind of thing.

the car will probably just be turbo for a while because I recently admitted that I am poor, and the rebuild parts for the G60 supercharger are expensive!

but hopefully the pup gear will be done today and I can start re-assembly on saturday

truckinwagen · « **Reply #36 on:** April 03, 2009, 07:36:23 pm »

well, the car should be on the road tomorrow, I had everything done only to find out that I had a dead battery, dropped a cell.
so I bought a new one and will throw it in the car tomorrow.

so first firing of a motor that has been out of commission for a full year will commence tomorrow!

I will bring my camera and take pics/video of the beast in action.

unfortunately the supercharger will have to wait until next season when I get my new motor built up(1.5 crank with AAZ pistons in a sleeved 1.6 block)

more updates to come!

rallydiesel · « **Reply #37 on:** April 03, 2009, 08:27:45 pm »

I pulled the motor on mine today, but before I did, I wanted to see if it would start after 6 months sitting and a tank of summer diesel.

Started on the first crank.

Oh how I missed your loud, shakey goodness.

truckinwagen · « **Reply #38 on:** April 03, 2009, 08:32:59 pm »

yeah, this should be harder though, brand new IP and dry injectors/lines.

I primed the pump with a vacuum gun, but there is always some air trapped in it somewhere.

I really hope I get more than the hour of running time before catastrophic failure like last time

I also need to finish bleeding the brakes, every time I bleed brakes from dry I say this, but Damn it sucks!

Smokey Eddy · « **Reply #39 on:** April 03, 2009, 08:35:50 pm »

if you leave the lines cracked it will prime straight away. After being drained and sitting for many many months i just connected the lines all up and spun the IP with a ratchet. It primed very quickly. like ... 5 minutes of turning it with a ratchet and then 15 seconds of cranking.

truckinwagen · « **Reply #40 on:** April 03, 2009, 08:44:20 pm »

thats my plan.
will still take some time cranking and will run rough for a while.
nothing primes a motor like running it!

jtanguay · « **Reply #41 on:** April 03, 2009, 09:22:20 pm »

Quote from: "truckinwagen"

nothing primes a motor like running it!

or an electric lift pump :lol:

truckinwagen · « **Reply #42 on:** April 03, 2009, 09:26:02 pm »

I have one of those too, but they wont get all the air out of the injectors and lines the way that running the bastard will.

its really not that bad, just a little smokey for a bit.

oh, yeah, I also need to build my downpipe! right now the turbo outlet is pointing at the inner fenderwell.
the downpipe is going to be tricky as I have to clear the framehorn and the tie rod as it curves back and around towards the tunnel, very limited space for a 2.5 inch pipe.

very doable though.

foxracer1 · « **Reply #43 on:** April 04, 2009, 07:28:12 am »

PICS!

91redjetta · « **Reply #44 on:** April 04, 2009, 08:25:44 am »

dont yell at them man.. he's busy

Author Topic: Sloooow twincharge project (Read 16124 times)

91redjetta