Retorque, or install arp studs? non leaking HG version

[vwjunkie53]

Hi everyone,
I did post this question in a round about way in my D24 thread, but didn't get a straight answer.  I have a volvo with a D24T engine, and plan to be turning up the power, obviously thats why I'm on this board!  Its stock now and has just about 200k miles on it.  The head gasket isn't leaking, but I'm thinking before I go and turn up the pump I would like to at least retorque the head, or install new bolts, or possibly get a set of ARP studs.  I really don't want to remove the head at this point, its even more involved that doing a 1.6, and its cold here!  Is is likely that I'll "pop" the gasket from loosening a bolt at a time and changing them?  Would it be less risky to just go over all the bolts and at least make sure they are all evenly torqued?  If so, how many ft/lbs should I go?  If I remember, the bently doesn't give a final torque value, it was some amount, then another 1/4 or 1/2 turn.. (its been a couple years since I rebuilt my 1.6 TD)..  I just want to get it the best it can be before I go run the crap outa it... I've had a couple 1.6 TDs with mods, this 6cyl should be fun!

Thanks for any suggestions.
Jason

[ObscuredByClouds]

Not sure about the questions you have. However, you could do one bolt at a time (remove and replace with aftermarket studs) and be okay.

[Rabbit TD]

Hi everyone,
I did post this question in a round about way in my D24 thread, but didn't get a straight answer.  I have a volvo with a D24T engine, and plan to be turning up the power, obviously thats why I'm on this board!  Its stock now and has just about 200k miles on it.  The head gasket isn't leaking, but I'm thinking before I go and turn up the pump I would like to at least retorque the head, or install new bolts, or possibly get a set of ARP studs.  I really don't want to remove the head at this point, its even more involved that doing a 1.6, and its cold here!  Is is likely that I'll "pop" the gasket from loosening a bolt at a time and changing them?  Would it be less risky to just go over all the bolts and at least make sure they are all evenly torqued?  If so, how many ft/lbs should I go?  If I remember, the bently doesn't give a final torque value, it was some amount, then another 1/4 or 1/2 turn.. (its been a couple years since I rebuilt my 1.6 TD)..  I just want to get it the best it can be before I go run the crap outa it... I've had a couple 1.6 TDs with mods, this 6cyl should be fun!

Thanks for any suggestions.
Jason

Does ARP or Raceware have a specific part # for studs for your engine or do you know if there is a set that will work on your engine?  If they do and I were you then yes I would get them and instal them 1 at a time for now without pulling the head.  Since you are going to experiment with the boost you will probably be pulling it apart down the road sometime and you will already have the studs.

[Sprockets]

In honesty, if it's survived 200k miles as is, I wouldn't touch it, and i would never disturb a gasket of that age by removing and reinstalling bolts, even one at a time.  Just go gentle with the power increase, and when you feel you want more, or are getting worried about the HG, then pull and replace it, THEN install the studs.

-Gavin

[vwjunkie53]

Thanks for the responses.  I'm pretty sure the studs are the same as the 1.6 studs.  I looked them up on a suppliers website (I work at the vw shop in St.Louis) and the stock replacement head bolts are the same part number for the 1.6 and the 2.4.  I would probably have to buy two sets to get enough though.  I don't plan to go crazy with boost, I know the stock gasket will only take so much.  It runs the same boost stock as a 1.6, I plan to go maybe 3 or 4 lbs more, along with more fuel.

Jason

[Rabbit TD]

Thanks for the responses.  I'm pretty sure the studs are the same as the 1.6 studs.  I looked them up on a suppliers website (I work at the vw shop in St.Louis) and the stock replacement head bolts are the same part number for the 1.6 and the 2.4.  I would probably have to buy two sets to get enough though.  I don't plan to go crazy with boost, I know the stock gasket will only take so much.  It runs the same boost stock as a 1.6, I plan to go maybe 3 or 4 lbs more, along with more fuel.

Jason

I just looked at the Summt Racing site where I got mine and they list some individual ARP studs, the ones shown that they have are std. thread type though but maby the VW ones can be bought individualy also.  These might just be some from broken sets though at Summit that could have been returned.  Somewhere along the line somebody discovered that these studs we use from the Ford applications work on our diesels and I bet there is a set for a 6 cyl that will fit your engine too withought having to buy 2 sets.  Maby if you contact ARP customer support thy can match you up with a set that already exists from another application, just a thought.  

[Luckypabst]

The studs are $9.99 each from ARP + shipping. Nuts and washers are extra. Just call them in Ventura, they'll be happy to sell you individual hardware.

Chris

[vwjunkie53]

Thanks for the info.  Obviously if the head comes off later, I'll be installing the arp studs, as well as the updated stainless hg.  I guess the general consensous is to leave it as it is, and not to change out/retorque the bolts?

Jason

[AudiVWguy]

I disagree, I've done the research on replacing the the head bolts on my Audi 5000 Turbo Quattro with ARP studs. If you do it when the engine is cold, and use the factory recommended tightening sequence. One stud at a time. I'm thinking tightening to about 90-95 percent and when all are installed, finish the sequence to ARP specs.
This way you are not putting any abnormal pressure on the head and gasket I see no reason why this would not work.
Just my 2 cents.
-JB

[vwjunkie53]

Thanks for the suggestion.  The whole idea is that I WILL be putting abnormal amount of pressure on the gasket, as in more boost!  I was kind of thinking that doing one stud at a time really wouldn't mess with the seal, and when I would be done, there would just be more holding power, and hopefully the head will just be more evenly clamped down.  I may just wait till the weather is warmer to mess with this, in case it does start to leak.  I wont mind pulling the head so much when its 70 outside!

Jason