Author Topic: Leaky IP - what now? (Read 4672 times)

Jettage1 · « **Reply #15 on:** January 19, 2009, 06:35:19 pm »

FWIW, an update...

Swell foop has been completed: new Giles-blessed IP, new timing belt, new injectors, new water pump, many miscellaneous bolts anti-seized, and one Eco (finally) back on the road!

I do want to double check my timing adjustment, and possibly adjust the max fuel. I set timing around 95 but it does seem a bit rattly at idle. Also a bit too much black smoke under throttle... Still as someone else has said, it's clack-a-lack-tastic! Speedier too! (need a boost gauge now)

Oh, need to have the muffler shop nix the cat... hopefully next week. Am going to inquire about a 2.5" system, but given the wallet convulsions incurred by all of the above, a simple cat-splice may win the day.

Rabbit TD · « **Reply #16 on:** January 20, 2009, 12:19:28 am »

Quote from: "Jettage1"

Going a bit OT here, but I did go to the tranny link. Looks like the main difference between the ones you suggested and the AVX is that the AVX has a final drive of 4.25 and the others are 3.94. Based on the calculator it means a difference of about 223 rpm at 65 mph.

Interesting...

Don't forget about your wheel and tire sizes when comparing these ratios depnding on what you have or might want to get heigth wise

burn_your_money · « **Reply #17 on:** January 20, 2009, 10:41:34 am »

Keep track of how much you move the fuel screw. Once you get the free flowing exhaust on there you will want to turn it back up.

Jettage1 · « **Reply #18 on:** January 20, 2009, 07:02:45 pm »

Backed it off 1/8 turn tonight. We'll see how the smoke is tomorrow.

Engine still sounds more rattly than before, but I double checked the timing and it's 95 - 96. I think I have the timing belt tension about right (45 deg. twist max), and the car starts fine. So unless there's something I'm really missing here, it's gotta be okay. Anything other than timing I should be worried about here?

burn_your_money · « **Reply #19 on:** January 21, 2009, 04:55:59 am »

Cam and crank are spot on?
Were they before?

Jettage1 · « **Reply #20 on:** January 21, 2009, 09:30:39 am »

Cam and crank should be fine - new timing belt was installed with crank at TDC and cam locked with the flat tool. I did confirm that the lobes on #1 were pointing upward. Belt was tensioned with cam pulley loosened.

IIRC, the crank was just slightly off of TDC when I initially locked the cam and took things apart. I chalked that up to prior misadjustment and did my best to "zero" everything correctly on the reinstallation.

This is the only one I've done, so have no "depth of experience" to draw upon here...

burn_your_money · « **Reply #21 on:** January 21, 2009, 04:44:33 pm »

As long as you turned the engine over and then rechecked everything you should be good to go.

I know I had a rabbit and when I bought it the cam was out about 1/2 a tooth. It wasn't a huge difference in sound or performance when I retimed it but it was definitely different.

Jettage1 · « **Reply #22 on:** January 21, 2009, 04:49:56 pm »

Thanks Tyler. That could help explain things. I didn't consider that my changing the timing from before would change how it "sounds"... Duh.

I also need to figure out how to install a larger air cleaner & get rid of the cat. Then I can try to dial in the max fuel & "smoke" screws a bit better.