How hard is it? Do you just have to unbolt it then bolt it back on?
I want to have a look in there to see how it's holding up with the veg oil.
PS sorry for the endless stream of questions, I promise I'll contribute something back when the project's finished!
That will be and expensive look and see. Head gasket and probably head bolts. If you don't have the timing tools, another $70 for them. It will probably take you a day to pull it and a day to put it back on and re-time the pump. What you'll see will probably not be any different if you used veggie or diesel for your fuel. What you might want to look at are the seals on the injection pump. That's really the only area of concern when using veggie (assuming you filter it well and there's no water, etc)
I already own the timing tools and can do a valve and injection timing check in 20 minutes now, I've done it so many times
I was concerned that there might be coking in the valves and intakes, and I'm also slightly concerned about ring gumming although I'm told by some that with an IDI I'll be fine... Incidentally, I'm running a single tank, experimenting with 100% SVO or a blend with RUG.
I shall be doing the injectors soon, so it'll be interesting to see if they are coked up.
I'm currently reading up on the pump so I can strip it down, re-seal and recalibrate it.. so perhaps I'll do that and just trust that the swirl chambers are doing their job
Almost forgot, depending on what condition your valve cover and manifold gaskets are in, you might need to buy them as well.
How hard is it? Do you just have to unbolt it then bolt it back on?
I want to have a look in there to see how it's holding up with the veg oil.
PS sorry for the endless stream of questions, I promise I'll contribute something back when the project's finished!
I've burned a lot of veg oil over the last few years. I'd just pull the injectors and have them pop tested. While they're out do a compression test. If the motor isn't burning the lube oil excessively and your injectors and compression are ok don't bother pulling the head you're just making work for yourself. Before you even take it apart to do those tests run a can of lubromoly diesel purge throught it and see what that does for it.
If you have a rubber valve cover gasket and non-stretch head studs then you only need to replace the head gasket. You will still have to drain the coolant and disconnect the down pipe and injector lines, probably more stuff.
This is merely in regards to head gasket jobs.
I don't believe in timing tools being necessary just for a HG job. sure they are recommended but you can bar the cam in place and use those erwin quick grips to hold the pump pully from moving. and then just turn the crank (firstly) to where the timing mark on the flywheel is correct. Then undo the oil return, all the hard lines to the pump, coolant hoses, head bolts and so on.
a new HG and bolts will never cost you anywhere close to 100$ and a new HG is never a bad idea. You'd get a thorough inspection and then when you're done cleaning it up put it back together. I'd get a friend to help with the lifting if you don't have a crane. even with a crane extra hands avoid damage to the mating surfaces.
the idea is that you don't meddle with any timing what so ever so you don't have to worry about it.