My 1.6td/aaz head and other stuff too. - page 17 - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• #240 by Smokey Eddy on 15 Feb, 2009 18:04
• a cv joint is 80$ plus
  
  can anyone tell me which part no. on www.importcarpartscanada.ca i want for my car for a wheel bearing? I want to do both front ones while im at it.
  
  There are like ... so many different ones...
  
  
  here which ones to i want? I dont have an auto trans.
  
  Or, do i want a kit?
  
• #241 by 8v-of-fury on 15 Feb, 2009 18:35
• yo, Ed-man.
  
  I think it would be wise to get a kit if it offers every thing you need for bearing, and axle replacement.. i've heard you should never use all that stuff again.. but i have used them atleast 3-4 times for various reasons to remove axles.. depends on your budget i guess bud.
  
  If you look at the KIT pieces it says for the front you need the 72mm dia. bearing for the front.. so if you want to do it alone then you need the one bearing from your list that is 72mm
  
  When i got my bearings done i supplied the two bearings to the shop i had do them and he did the work with no parts cost, and i got him to do the alignment as well.. altogether was like 125 dollars.. 50 for alignment, and 75 or so for his labour. no parts charge.. turns out the bearings he was gonna get were like 20 dollars more too.. pheww
  
  Goodluck, do you need some help? I could get on a plane tonight and see you in a few hours? :lol: I could hold something while you weld it eh? :p
  
  Jeremy
  
  LMAO
  
  EDIT! wait a second here Ed.. how can cv joints be $80 when the whole damn axle is like $95? ED! You never make sense!
• #242 by Smokey Eddy on 15 Feb, 2009 18:38
• HAhahahaha Do it man. We could both do work for people on their VW's! That would solve our unemployment! although it would take a long while for you to just pay off the ticket cost ...  :roll:
  
  Thanks for the input. So if i wanted to change the two front bearings i would order two of the 72mm bearings?
  
  Don't they need to be pressed on?
• #243 by 8v-of-fury on 15 Feb, 2009 18:40
• Quote from: "Smokey Eddy"

  HAhahahaha Do it man. We could both do work for people on their VW's! That would solve our unemployment! although it would take a long while for you to just pay off the ticket cost ...  :roll:
  
  Thanks for the input. So if i wanted to change the two front bearings i would order two of the 72mm bearings?
  
  Don't they need to be pressed on?

  
  
  Ohhh unemployment
  
  Yeah pressed in by a shop.. sadly not ALL the work on these cars can be done at home..
• #244 by Smokey Eddy on 15 Feb, 2009 18:43
• dang it. I have acess to a 3 ton press at my old highschool... can i just take the parts to my school and press them my self? or do they get pressed with all the stuff still on the car? I've never seen that part of the car apart before so i dunno what it looks like,.
• #245 by 8v-of-fury on 15 Feb, 2009 18:54
• it has to come off the car.. and you have access to a press! woohoo, easy peasy.
  
  Take the tire off, take the caliper off, unbolt the two bolts holding the bottom of the spring assembly in, pop the ball joint, and then the tie rod. i think thats all that holds that steering "knuckle" in there really.. once you start tearing in to it, it should come apart like cheese. I mean you did a head swap, and i could do what i am describing, i wouldnt try a head swap.. you should be be good
  
  cough* get some beer for the job *cough
• #246 by 8v-of-fury on 15 Feb, 2009 21:28
• i havent a clue what my avatar is man nobody knos :lol:
  
  its weird i found him over on the vortex, art and design forum. lol
• #247 by jtanguay on 15 Feb, 2009 22:02
• Quote from: "Smokey Eddy"

  dang it. I have acess to a 3 ton press at my old highschool... can i just take the parts to my school and press them my self? or do they get pressed with all the stuff still on the car? I've never seen that part of the car apart before so i dunno what it looks like,.

  
  
  you need to remove the spindle assembly to press the new bearing if you intend on using a shop press... but it is not simply the pressure that you need.. you need a piece that is a perfect fit to press out the bearing.  someone with machinist skills could probably make a tool though...
  
  but there is a good writeup here on vortex. maybe the only thing i would try and avoid, is having to take off the ball joint... especially on an old beast.  you'd need to take a wire brush to clean off the rust just so you could make the scribe marks, or just paint it.  that guy makes it look too easy.. theres not enough rust on that car!!!  :lol:
  
  i bet you could probably rent the bearing puller from c-tire if you buy the part from them.  probably dirt cheap rental too, if they're not jackasses.
• #248 by Smokey Eddy on 16 Feb, 2009 03:26
• Holy crap thats a way bigger job than i thought.
  
  I really appreciate you finding that thread for me. It's convinced me to NOT do that my self ... I dont have a 30mm socket or that puller contraption. I think i'll just get the two bearings and get a shop to do it. If Jeremy got it done for 75$ + 50$ for an alignment i guess add 75$ for doing it twice and that's $200. for two wheel bearings. and that's just a guess!!! I think i'll wait until it's a real issue. I should figure out the steering thing first i think.
  
  Thank you all very much for the input and that thread jtanguay. Bookmarked.
  
  I'll see if my old shop teacher has the 30mm socket and possibly the bearing pulling stuff! We'll have to see.
• #249 by theman53 on 16 Feb, 2009 05:09
• If you have the socket, welder, air chisel, press and 2 people you can do it with the knuckle on the strut. I did it 3 times now. I am too cheap to want to get it aligned if you take the knuckle off you almost have to get it done.
  If you knock out the center of the bearing with air chisel or press and then all that is left is the outer race. Take you mig and lay a nice heavy bead around the entire inside of the race that is left in the knuckle. Then before it cools take your air chisel and hammer out the race *make sure to take the snap rings out first* and be careful not to hold onto it when it falls as it should be hot. Clean up the inside of the knuckle. Head over to the press and take you old race if you have to use it to press. Have one guy hold onto the strut while the other runs the press. Monkey around and you should be able to get it in there straight with no problems.
  Remember to get the axle nut on there good. I always use a threadlocker. Let me know if you have any questions. LOL
• #250 by foxracer1 on 16 Feb, 2009 05:36
• Quote from: "Smokey Eddy"

  
  
  can anyone tell me which part no. on www.importcarpartscanada.ca i want for my car for a wheel bearing? I want to do both front ones while im at it.
  
  There are like ... so many different ones...
  

  
  
  What year is your car?  MkI cars get a smaller bearing eaarly
  MkII(85-85) get a medium bearing
  late MKII(88-up) and MKII(not sure about vr6) get a larger one
• #251 by Smokey Eddy on 16 Feb, 2009 10:53
• '90 so the 72mm one?
  
  i had to enter my year & model and stuff into the site for it to give me a parts list.
• #252 by doc.gneoson on 21 Feb, 2009 22:06
• hey ed,awsome thread!,  you replied to someone saying something along the lines of "don't worry the block is soft and drilling though it is easy", i can't find it again to actually quote it(sorry lol), what did you have to drill and for what, or do i got it totally wrong, if you have no idea what i'm talking about don't worry about it i was prob a few months ago lol
• #253 by 8v-of-fury on 22 Feb, 2009 06:47
• i beleive sir ED-mon had to drill for steam passages.. if i am not mistaken
  
  Welcome to the Forum Doc.
• #254 by Smokey Eddy on 12 Mar, 2009 14:03
• I didn't have to. I chose to because the AAZ head has em.
  
  I found out why my gauge said i have an oil temp of 210F... the wires were just EVER so slightly crossing for the power to the lights and the feed line. When i turn the dimmer down on the gauges the needle goes down! Hahahaha
  
  yeaahhhh....
  
  So i finally got the line to the IP to stop coming out of the intake hose. JB weld to the rescue. Unfortunately at 25+ psi two hoses i have clamped together keep coming apart. I also just finished changing my dash lights to red LEDs. I'll take pics tonight in the dark and post a thread about it!
  
  The job was a complete success despite taking like 5 months.